Voltage issue
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: medford oregon
Voltage issue
I almost have this engine squared away. The last nagging issue is im only getting 6.5 volts to the electric choke on this edelbrock. I chased the wire down to a aftermarket fuse panel in the cab and its only getting 6.5 volts. The fuse panel is coming off of the starter solenoid output side and its 6.5 volts there. Isn't it supposed to be 12+ volts? Thanks for any input.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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If the starter solenoid is only getting 6 volts, I wonder how it could start? Does it run now? If so, maybe check while running. If not, could the battery be dead? I'd put a charger on the battery and try again while the charger is hooked up.
I would make sure you have 12+ volts at the battery and test from there until you find the drop.
I would make sure you have 12+ volts at the battery and test from there until you find the drop.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Knoxville, TN
Not sure which wire you've got feeding it there; if it's tied into the one from the "I" terminal though, it would be back-fed through the resistor wire from the coil, and get around 7-9V. It would also likely burn up that resistor wire, and be a significant fire hazard, since that wire's only intended to feed the coil, not the choke too. If it's one of the wires directly attached to the battery feed there, then there's probably a bad connection somewhere between the solenoid and the fuse block.
As others have said, the Ford electric chokes were designed to run at 7V off the stator wire of the alternator (that way, they only start heating up once the engine is spinning, not whenever you turn the key on if it hasn't started).
As others have said, the Ford electric chokes were designed to run at 7V off the stator wire of the alternator (that way, they only start heating up once the engine is spinning, not whenever you turn the key on if it hasn't started).
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: medford oregon
If the starter solenoid is only getting 6 volts, I wonder how it could start? Does it run now? If so, maybe check while running. If not, could the battery be dead? I'd put a charger on the battery and try again while the charger is hooked up.
I would make sure you have 12+ volts at the battery and test from there until you find the drop.
I would make sure you have 12+ volts at the battery and test from there until you find the drop.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Sort out that power feed, because your going to burn up your ignition coil resistor wire. The I terminal on the starter solenoid/relay feeds full voltage to the coil during starts.
What I would do is find out what voltage the electric choke requires (Aftermarket seems to be 12 volts) and then sort out the wiring for it.
Ford electric chokes sometimes used the stator with from the alternator (White Black on those 3g alternators) to supply 7ish AC 3 phase voltage to the choke.
12 volt chokes I heard you can use an oil pressure switch to control the choke and an ignition run power feeding that switch.
Anyway, the idea is to power the choke when the engine is running, and not simply when the ignition is in run position.
What I would do is find out what voltage the electric choke requires (Aftermarket seems to be 12 volts) and then sort out the wiring for it.
Ford electric chokes sometimes used the stator with from the alternator (White Black on those 3g alternators) to supply 7ish AC 3 phase voltage to the choke.
12 volt chokes I heard you can use an oil pressure switch to control the choke and an ignition run power feeding that switch.
Anyway, the idea is to power the choke when the engine is running, and not simply when the ignition is in run position.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 453
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From: medford oregon
Not the coil, that was a brain fart. I meant from the solenoid. I have coils on the brain from my ignition problems.
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