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Bad info Mil1ion. Stator only puts out 1/2 the charging voltage. Aftermarket electric chokes need a full +12 volts otherwise they open real slow and don't open up all the way.
Good info Mil1ion I run a Holley choke cap on a Motorcraft, also a Ford cap. Both are hooked to the stator. I wouldn't mind if they were both a little bit slower to open. They both open all the way.
Go with the manufacturers recommendations. I think Ford used the stator circuit because it provided nearly full voltage after a start in order to heat the choke rapidly and less voltage later on to keep the electric element from burning out. I think most aftermarket units require a full "run" condition 12-14V. Ford units use the stator term. You might try to run the aftermarket units on the stator terminal. I am currently using "run" voltage on my Edelbrock. I will probably try the stator circuit later after my rebuild.
Hi Barry, I didn't pay any attention to the index. I just turned the cap until the butterfly was almost closed. It does open fully. I tried the Holley on a power supply before I put it on the truck. At 7 volts it took longer to open then at 12 volts. I figure it will last longer with the lower power dissapation. I think it was drawing about 1 amp.
Ok, I'll buy that. You can get some 12 volt electric-only chokes to work but it's a seat of the pants adjustment. The span and rate are different though, all I can say is try it and see.
BTW, the Ford electric choke is designed for the stator voltage and is only an assist, it's meant to work together with the old-fashoned choke tubes from the exhaust manifold.
Man were we down for awhile, I was starting to go through withdraw!
Oh, back to the question, these year trucks have solenoids on the engine that you can tap 12 volts from like the throttle positioner and vacuum solenoid. At least the feed wire should still be there, it's solid blue I believe. Check with a voltmeter and see what's hot with the key in the "run" position only.