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I have been having issues with my transmission popping out of 5th (in a 1-6) almost every time I put it in that gear. I also have a noise that sounds like the pilot bearing is out.
I have talked to a few tranny remanufacturers and read through some of the ford workshop manual and have been told that a bad pilot bearing could cause the tranny to pop out of gear. Has anyone had this happen to them? Do you think I could maybe get rid of my gear issue by fixing my pilot bearing?
If possible I would like to not have to spend ~$2700 to do the transmission as I don't really have that in the budget..
Subscribing. I have no idea if a worn pilot bearing would contribute. But, I can say that when I swapped mine during the clutch replacement, the factory needle bearing had disintegrated to nothing but dust. It had scored the input shaft pretty good too. And I've never had it pop out of gear (knocking on wood as I type this), even with the "missing" pilot bearing.
Yeah, I went back and forth on what to do with the pilot bearing. Pretty poor longevity reports for the Kevlar bushing that came with my South Bend. So I went for the oil impregnated bronze bushing. I'll probably never be able to give a good long-term report on it, though - I only put 5k miles a year on the truck. Hopefully I don't "get what I paid for," as that bushing was only $5!
cant help the original poster but here to say after 5 kevlar bushings, 3 new zf6 transmissions and a bunch of frustration, Kevlar bushing is JUNK. South Bend is not worth the time either; have used 3 different clutches from them, soft pedal but chattered a lot!
How hard would you say it is to remove the transmission? This is what is holding me up right now. I don't want to remove it, put in a new input shaft bearing then put it back in just to have the issue remain, but at the same time I don't want to stick a new transmission in when it is just my input shaft bearing.
As far as my clutch goes I have no ideas on the miles but someone on here (Chris...?) mentioned it looked fairly worn 33k miles ago so.....
Whatever I do I need to get done sooner rather than later as my truck has such a tendency to pop out of gear I don't trust it pulling..
How hard would you say it is to remove the transmission?
...
Thanks,
Baatzy
It's not technically hard, but takes time and it's a brute. We left the transfer case attached, which adds weight hanging off the side, and used a regular floor jack, which made it pretty cumbersome. But we got it done.
Remove starter. Disconnect front and rear driveshafts. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder (twist and pull). Remove shift boot screws, then unscrew and remove shifter (easy). Disconnect three (?) wiring harness connections from tranny/transfer case. Remove crossmember. Remove eight (?) bolts connecting transmission to engine. Roll tranny back a few inches until pilot shaft is free, then lower and slide back. I don't know if one person with a transmission jack could do it; it took everything two of us had to maneuver it, especially for reassembly. Anyone, feel free to chime in if I missed anything.
It's enough of a job that I'd really recommend putting the new clutch in and being done with that. Even if you need a new tranny at some point, the clutch would be done.
Note that this is THE time to deal with up-pipes if you haven't done them. Unfortunately I didn't think about that ahead of time.
valair clutch here. 100k+ here and seems to be good, but i do eat m/s assy. The Advance Auto (pn #pf9021) has lasted 50k, so its been the best of yet..all aluminum construction.
YTo replace the input shaft bearing, the tranny will need disassembled, since IT IS the first part to be installed. Everythings' installed from the back of tranny...
Ahh, shoot, sorry, somewhere I slipped up. It is not the input shaft bearing that needs replaced, its the pilot bearing/bushing...
Also, since you brought up your clutch Tim, I may as well ask.. What is a good driving clutch? Right now my clutch is very "jumpy" and it makes the whole truck shake or jump as you engage the clutch and I don't want that at all. I want something that will engage smoothly, but retain a very firm pedal feeling.
I cant speak for, which would be the best/is clutch since i've only had 1 set installed. However, the one installed, VALAIR(stock power), has been, i think, a great setup. Pedals' resistance is on par with being the norm. (knock on wood) but no slippage that i've encountered, never has popped out while towing heavy..(will soon again at end of month, probably my heaviest..15k-ish).....since being installed for 3yrs/100k+, only grief was the throwout gave way a year after install. Installed a NAPA T.O. and for the last 2yrs, still hanging in there...
The grabbiest clutches I have had have been all of south bend's single disc. They slip poorly and shake the truck even using 2wd low to move trailer around. The luk repset clutch in my '95 has been outstanding but wont hold much power over stock.
Well it sounds like I should stay away from the south bends then as I hate the grabby feeling of the clutch, drives me batty. Another question for you fellers, how do I determine if I need a new flywheel or if I can just get by with resurfacing? I really don't know what makes a flywheel reusable and what writes it off.
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