Truck is a '95 purchased 1 year ago. It has 135,XXX but was a work truck, so maintenance and oil changes may have suffered. Since it had 1 bad inj when I purchased ( replaced with used)) and another went bad I opted to replace all 8 with rebuilt.

New oil and filter, filled heads with oil, cranked several times with inj. unhooked, after starting I ran her about 10 miles and thought all the air was purged as she was running very good. Later, took her up the road again and she cut off at 55 and would not restart. Using a "Snap On" Ethos scan tool there is no high pressure. ICP plugged in no pressure, unplugged still won't start. Is there a simple test to use on IPR? Are they rebuildable? Could it be dislodged crud and cleanable?

THANKS!

 

I would recheck the injector install. You could have blown an oring.
Your tach is moving while cranking?
Check engine light flashes on when you first turn the key on?

 

Not sure what to look for on inj. install? Have changed out inj. before never had this issue. All inj. bores were wiped out, all seated easily, I lightly tapped them in place and used a straight edge across them, so all seemed seated properly. Tach bumps like normal, just no pressure. There is no chip but last year I tried to load the 'ole Superchips on it and it said the truck was "programmed standard'. Will check on CEL but don't remember anything from ordinary. The CEL came on when truck cut off and the Snap on Ethos gives me a ICP code I think below normal. Will run check again. Need to charge up laptop, daughter #2 used it, that's the same one with A/E. Thanks.

 

Sounds like a sticking IPR. I don't know of any tests except for checking out the wiring pigtail for breaks, etc. You can clean the IPR but they are not rebuildable.

 

OK, replaced the IPR and refilled the HPOP res. Cranking shows 175+ psi with a bump up to 200 psi. Of course, no start. Before IPR change, no psi now some but not enough. Again, new inj, went in easy, clean bores and ran smooth before shut down. Where would you guys look?

 

Whose injectors? Have you talked with whoever built them? Have you put a mechanical gauge on the hpop itself?

 

Like to keep the inj. people off the topic unless I determine it's them and can't get help. They know I had a high pressure failure and that i was leaning toward a IPR. they said that it is not uncommon to have an IPR issue when changing out inj's. I have dealt with them for several years and never had an issue so I've never had to worry about warranty. Would it not have to be a serious inj issue to not produce enough to not fire? I'm wondering if there is something simple I'm overlooking?

 

Have you checked the ipr harness/connector? The wire loom can hide problems and oil/fuel leaks like to eat away the insulation on the wires.

Rusty

 

As an example, here is what mine looked like that caused a no-start issue for me

Rusty

 

yeah, mine looked the same and a replacement fixed the issue. It would start and then die immediately. I jiggled it while running and the truck would die.

 

I remember having a broken connector at the IPR on my '96 one winter and did it ever cause mischief!! I do not believe it is part of the problem. Maybe I have it though. The mechanical gauge I have is fluid filled 0 - 5000 psi and I removed the oil plug on each side of head - one at a time - , both heads and HPOP reservoir filled with oil; attached my fitting there and when cranking the needle bumped to around a hundred. The Snap on meter electrically was showing 175 psi.

The inj. were 150 cc without a chip (yet) and I now fear I need a HPOP. Does anyone care to add their 2 cents? Engine had 135,XXX miles but I guess it's so?

 

It's hard to believe the hpop went bad without doing anything. If it were mine I'd pull the injectors and look for a screwed oring first. Lots cheaper. That's when the problem started, after the injector change. If you have one blown, you won't build pressure. It's up to you, I know you said you got them in good, but you never know, chit happens.


Pull the covers first and look for oil gurgling out the spout or around the base of an injector while someone is cranking it.

 

Will do Fordman, I had wondered how the pump could have just bottomed out but thinking same about o - rings. But the v covers is much easier. I do have the remote starter switch which is much safer for me than am inexperienced helper.

 

Fordman, #5 inj. has oil gurgling up around it, it also seems to have pushed up a bit using a straight edge. All bores/cups looked good and all were torqued. I don't know what could have happened. Unless someone stops me soon I'm pulling it.

Thanks guys. hope this leads to running again!

 

If it's got oil gurgling then the oring is messed. You'll have no choice but to pull it and replace the orings