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Fordman, #5 inj. has oil gurgling up around it, it also seems to have pushed up a bit using a straight edge. All bores/cups looked good and all were torqued. I don't know what could have happened. Unless someone stops me soon I'm pulling it.
Thanks guys. hope this leads to running again!
No problem, glad you found it. Like I said, sometimes chit happens.
Changed out o rings with new ones. Lightly lubed, re installed, torqued, filled oil passages and cranked. NO OIL pressure beyond the base oil pressure of less than 100# vs the mechanical gauge set up. Engine oil and filter new, at full mark No gurgling, no abnormal noises, sights and smells??? I fear it is also the HPOP. I would pull out some hairs but I cannot afford to. Any other things I've missed?
When you pulled the injectors, and reseated the new ones could you physically feel them bottom out? When tapping with a rubber mallet you should hear a "ting"sound with the brass washer botoms out in the cup.
Secondly I would make sure you put injectors in and removed all old brass washer, and installed the new ones, but it sounds like you did. In the dozens upon dozens of injector installs I have done I have never seen a failed oring right after install. Lubin up the orings is important, but most manufactures ship them well lubed. Pinching and oring is hard to imo, but I'm sure some day I will do it too and eat my own cud.
It would be worthwhile to pull them all out and inspect your orings, considering 1 was already screwed up, I'm curious about the others. Are they alliant orings, or crap from china? One other thing, did you only remove the lower injector hold down bolt, if so make sure the upper is seated properly in the saddle. No need to remove both and if you did the saddle needs to sit properly.
If all this is ok, It would leave me to believe you injectors are internally bypassing oil on the plunger. Not sure who you got them from or why posting their name is not happening, but I do not know anyone specing a 150cc single shot injector out there... 146s and 160 yes, but not a 150. But I only use two different guys for injectors. I will say cheaping on injectors has never paid off. I will only use Jim at Rosewood Diesel or Swamps diesel for injectors. If the customer doesn't want to, they can take their truck elsewhere, because in the past on two different occasions I installed whoever the hells injectors and had the truck back in my shop pulling them back out under my own time when I should have said take it somewhere else for your dishonesty :-) (Was told they were and turned out to ebay specials)
I just can imagine the HPOP chitting the bed in 10 miles, the IPR should be self explanatory from the posts above. I really do think its the injectors or orings, and that's why others have asked.... just like a boost or coolant leak, if the rings are sealing you will not gain pressure.
Any oil in the coolant or diesel in the oil? or worse comes to worst, coolant in oil??? Oil level ok?
Injectors are not cheap... when they are...there are bound to be issues.
Last edited by nossliw; Jul 20, 2015 at 02:53 PM.
Reason: really do think its the injectors or orings, and thats why others have asked.... just
OK, Noss, as to not naming the inj. provider, I didn't want to cast any doubt on their product if it was the installer (me) or something else with truck. We happen to share the feeling as to quality and you hit AWFUL close with your two choices! :-)
There were no unaccounted for washers, no visible problems with cups, no fluids where they normally would not be.
Anyway, the truck is only producing 25 psi base oil pressure after 6 seconds cranking, it takes about 3-4 to get the needle to move. Used 2 different gauges with no noticeable difference. Now I am wondering if it's not the ball valve at the oil filter? I did not notice any thing in the waste oil when changing ( I have an old habit of looking for things that are out of place like shavings, dead squirrels etc.) but I guess it could stick?
One thing, the Snap-On Ethos tool recorded no inj. pressure before changing the IPR and a max of 175 after. Maybe that's an issue?
OK, process of elimination here. Now that I have changed out the IPR is there a way to isolate the HPOP and test the pressure lines going to the heads? Someone suggested using a Port -A - Power to pressurize each head to see if the inj.'s.'s on that side would build any pressure. I will need a fitting for that. Seems like I should be able to use the old IPR with some sort of mod and seal off the IPR port and crank with a gauge connected to see if there is pressure.
OK, Noss, as to not naming the inj. provider, I didn't want to cast any doubt on their product if it was the installer (me) or something else with truck. We happen to share the feeling as to quality and you hit AWFUL close with your two choices! :-)
There were no unaccounted for washers, no visible problems with cups, no fluids where they normally would not be.
Anyway, the truck is only producing 25 psi base oil pressure after 6 seconds cranking, it takes about 3-4 to get the needle to move. Used 2 different gauges with no noticeable difference. Now I am wondering if it's not the ball valve at the oil filter? I did not notice any thing in the waste oil when changing ( I have an old habit of looking for things that are out of place like shavings, dead squirrels etc.) but I guess it could stick?
One thing, the Snap-On Ethos tool recorded no inj. pressure before changing the IPR and a max of 175 after. Maybe that's an issue?
Understood. I was just rattling off ideas.
I do think its odd you were getting a 0 reading on your truck before and now 175. It would be hard to blow a 0 on a single pinched ring. Do you have access to anyone with AE? Curious if the snapon gauge is not reading properly.
I have an A/E but daughter #2 uses the laptop for other things and the battery was dead when I started working on truck. The A/E shows inj oil pressure while cranking around 40psi which is probably reading base oil pressure I guess. Batteries charged and RPM is around 154-164 while cranking.
Truck just shut down at 55 mph with no stumbling, no erratic running, nothing so, with no Hi pressure, I figured IPR. Changed IPR but nothing. Can not talk to IPR provider as he is out of town. It was FORD product. Waiting to here back from Joey at Terminator to see if he can suggest way to test HPOP on truck.
Long story short, must have been some sort of trash went through oil system and caused problem with IPR. After replacing IPR there still was no Hi pressure oil, so the question and lengthy thread. I pumped the HPOP again to remove IPR and inspect and saw trash in the oil. I removed all the oil I could and then flushed it with engine cleaner/degreaser. Replaced with new oil and whacked off the wire connector and spliced in new end off UVCG, the wires were a little loose in the plug and I do remember when the '96 was giving me problems, but it looked bad.
Truck actually started and completely surprised me. After reassembling and test drive , it would take several seconds cranking to start, every time, after warm up. Very unusual. Now after some 100 miles and a dozen starts it cranks normal and runs well.
Getting in to it and never see more than 2500 psi on the mechanical gauge and after warming up the oil pressure dropped from 40 at start to 25 on the low gauge.
No start must have been IPR related either through trash and/or the pig tail wiring.
Thanks every body for the help on this one. I thought I had covered the bases but did have a leaking o ring and and IPR/wiring issue. I might still need a HPOP soon but that will have to wait.
By the way, Joey emailed back and said to check the IPR and/or the inj. o rings, did not think HPOP would be sudden.