Should I keep it stock?
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Should I keep it stock?
Hi everyone, new here.
I am working on an 85 F250 351W HO. 46k original miles, was sitting under a tree for 15 years. Surprisingly it started and ran!!
So far I have rebuilt the stock Holley and it came out well.
i really don't want to go crazy with engine mods. I am looking for a bit better drivability and maybe a little more power.
I was looking at the Edelbrock 3783 intake with the 2182 Performer Plus cam and lifter kit (I need a lifter or two anyway) Edelbrock site says they recommend using the stock carb which I plan on keeping.
These manifolds still utilize the EGR and EFE provisions.
Question is, should I go with this setup? Or, get something else and get rid of the EGR and EFE altogether.
Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks!
I am working on an 85 F250 351W HO. 46k original miles, was sitting under a tree for 15 years. Surprisingly it started and ran!!
So far I have rebuilt the stock Holley and it came out well.
i really don't want to go crazy with engine mods. I am looking for a bit better drivability and maybe a little more power.
I was looking at the Edelbrock 3783 intake with the 2182 Performer Plus cam and lifter kit (I need a lifter or two anyway) Edelbrock site says they recommend using the stock carb which I plan on keeping.
These manifolds still utilize the EGR and EFE provisions.
Question is, should I go with this setup? Or, get something else and get rid of the EGR and EFE altogether.
Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks!
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I'm not sure what EFE is, but the EGR doesn't hurt performance if it is working correctly. And if you remove the EGR you will probably have to rejet the carb as it was tuned for use with EGR. So, I'd keep it.
As for the cam and intake, the original HO cam is a good one, so replacing it won't gain you much. But, if you have bad lifters you may have a bad cam, so you may well have to replace it. In that case, look for a cam with low-end torque as that's what is needed for a truck. I don't know about the Performer Plus, but I ran a Comp XE256 in a 351W with excellent results. It had great off-idle torque, so if the Eddy's profile is similar to that then it'll work well.
As for the cam and intake, the original HO cam is a good one, so replacing it won't gain you much. But, if you have bad lifters you may have a bad cam, so you may well have to replace it. In that case, look for a cam with low-end torque as that's what is needed for a truck. I don't know about the Performer Plus, but I ran a Comp XE256 in a 351W with excellent results. It had great off-idle torque, so if the Eddy's profile is similar to that then it'll work well.
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From: Virginia
I would leave it alone also. I see you live in New York, you have got to have emissions testing or some sort of inspections correct?
Any modifications are going to raise the rpm in which it makes peak power, which is not really useful for a truck.
Any modifications are going to raise the rpm in which it makes peak power, which is not really useful for a truck.
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Yeah, it all seems to work fine. Only thing removed at the moment is the smog pump in order to clean up the engine bay a bit.
The tube in the EGR plate was blocked solid with carbon when I took it apart!
I just don't want to mess with it too much, I figured a slightly better cam and intake combo would help.
Wondering if anyone out there has had or has heard of good results with the Edelbrock intake and cam I mentioned above.
The tube in the EGR plate was blocked solid with carbon when I took it apart!
I just don't want to mess with it too much, I figured a slightly better cam and intake combo would help.
Wondering if anyone out there has had or has heard of good results with the Edelbrock intake and cam I mentioned above.
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For this year vehicle it is mainly safety with a "visual"check for emissions equipment. I'd like to keep it a legal as possible.
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I'm not sure what EFE is, but the EGR doesn't hurt performance if it is working correctly. And if you remove the EGR you will probably have to rejet the carb as it was tuned for use with EGR. So, I'd keep it.
As for the cam and intake, the original HO cam is a good one, so replacing it won't gain you much. But, if you have bad lifters you may have a bad cam, so you may well have to replace it. In that case, look for a cam with low-end torque as that's what is needed for a truck. I don't know about the Performer Plus, but I ran a Comp XE256 in a 351W with excellent results. It had great off-idle torque, so if the Eddy's profile is similar to that then it'll work well.
As for the cam and intake, the original HO cam is a good one, so replacing it won't gain you much. But, if you have bad lifters you may have a bad cam, so you may well have to replace it. In that case, look for a cam with low-end torque as that's what is needed for a truck. I don't know about the Performer Plus, but I ran a Comp XE256 in a 351W with excellent results. It had great off-idle torque, so if the Eddy's profile is similar to that then it'll work well.
After removing the valve covers yesterday I can see why they are noisy.
There was a tremendous amount of chunky,old sludgy carbon sitting on the heads.
The truck sat for 15 years, so I think the lifters will have the same sludgy buildup on them.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
If you pull the lifters, take a close look at the bottom of each one. They should have a slight curve to them, meaning they should be convex. If they are flat or concave then the lifter is toast and probably the cam is as well. On the other hand, if they are good you need to make sure each lifter goes back with its appropriate cam love as they are mated and shouldn't be moved.
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From: Northeast, OK
Looks to be very straight with no rust. Good find! 
You may be able to clean the inside of the engine up with a round of additives in the oil and several oil changes. Some use ATF in the oil due to the detergent it has, some kerosine, and others use a commercial additive like SeaFoam.
You may be able to clean the inside of the engine up with a round of additives in the oil and several oil changes. Some use ATF in the oil due to the detergent it has, some kerosine, and others use a commercial additive like SeaFoam.
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Looks to be very straight with no rust. Good find!
You may be able to clean the inside of the engine up with a round of additives in the oil and several oil changes. Some use ATF in the oil due to the detergent it has, some kerosine, and others use a commercial additive like SeaFoam.
You may be able to clean the inside of the engine up with a round of additives in the oil and several oil changes. Some use ATF in the oil due to the detergent it has, some kerosine, and others use a commercial additive like SeaFoam.
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From: Virginia
All that junk in the engine is not from sitting, it's from the oil not being changed on a regular basis. That's pretty common, and I have seen them worse that what yours looks like.
If you start changing the oil and put some sort of solvent in the engine to break this stuff loose, be careful and watch the oil pressure(If you want to modify something, add some real gauges under the dash). All that junk can come loose and get in the oil pan and stop up the oil pump pickup screen.
I think the best thing you can do is get this thing on the road and drive it. I would not spend a lot of money with a cam and intake, you will probably be spending money on necessities like master cylinders. wheel cylinders, brake lines, and hopefully the engine and tranny turn out ok. See if any knocks or other bad noises come about after you drive the truck for awhile. It happens.
If you start changing the oil and put some sort of solvent in the engine to break this stuff loose, be careful and watch the oil pressure(If you want to modify something, add some real gauges under the dash). All that junk can come loose and get in the oil pan and stop up the oil pump pickup screen.
I think the best thing you can do is get this thing on the road and drive it. I would not spend a lot of money with a cam and intake, you will probably be spending money on necessities like master cylinders. wheel cylinders, brake lines, and hopefully the engine and tranny turn out ok. See if any knocks or other bad noises come about after you drive the truck for awhile. It happens.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
All that junk in the engine is not from sitting, it's from the oil not being changed on a regular basis. That's pretty common, and I have seen them worse that what yours looks like.
If you start changing the oil and put some sort of solvent in the engine to break this stuff loose, be careful and watch the oil pressure(If you want to modify something, add some real gauges under the dash). All that junk can come loose and get in the oil pan and stop up the oil pump pickup screen.
I think the best thing you can do is get this thing on the road and drive it. I would not spend a lot of money with a cam and intake, you will probably be spending money on necessities like master cylinders. wheel cylinders, brake lines, and hopefully the engine and tranny turn out ok. See if any knocks or other bad noises come about after you drive the truck for awhile. It happens.
If you start changing the oil and put some sort of solvent in the engine to break this stuff loose, be careful and watch the oil pressure(If you want to modify something, add some real gauges under the dash). All that junk can come loose and get in the oil pan and stop up the oil pump pickup screen.
I think the best thing you can do is get this thing on the road and drive it. I would not spend a lot of money with a cam and intake, you will probably be spending money on necessities like master cylinders. wheel cylinders, brake lines, and hopefully the engine and tranny turn out ok. See if any knocks or other bad noises come about after you drive the truck for awhile. It happens.