Should I keep it stock?
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From: Virginia
It will be so much better if you can mechanically get most of it out. I believe you can, most of it does gather in the areas you have uncovered. Try to keep it from going down in the pan(plug the drain holes in the corner of the heads and the intake valley). That should keep most of it out of the pan.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
If by "flat" you mean the bottoms of the lifters, and if there were many of those, I'd replace the cam and all the lifters. There's a good chance that the cam lobes are going bad, and replacing just the lifters will cause the new ones to go bad.
As for additives, many swear by just adding a quart of ATF to the oil. Some run some kerosene in the oil. So a little research might find an inexpensive approach that would allow you to do several changes fairly quickly.
As for additives, many swear by just adding a quart of ATF to the oil. Some run some kerosene in the oil. So a little research might find an inexpensive approach that would allow you to do several changes fairly quickly.
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Freshman User
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Making some progress! cleaned as much as I could. Peeked into the oil pan and did not find the same kind of gunk that was on the top end. Also used a borescope to peek in through the drain hole and the pickup screen did not looked clogged.
Got the cam, timing set and rockers/pushrods installed today!
Just waiting for the water pump and some rad hoses from Rock Auto.
Got the cam, timing set and rockers/pushrods installed today!
Just waiting for the water pump and some rad hoses from Rock Auto.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Since you mechanically got most of the dirt out, I am not sure if I would run any type of cleaner in it. I think new oil will clean it up the rest of the way. I am leary of running solvents through the bearings and oil pump, just because they are so thin and have poor lubricating properties. I guess if you mixed them with the oil that would not be as bad.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I'm not advocating running solvents, snake oil, or ATF. But, I do want to clarify - I sure wouldn't run any of them straight. Only as a small part of the typical oil change. Dave is right, you need the lubricity of oil on the bearings.
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Yeah, I hear ya guys. I will never again use MMO as they describe in their instructions. Substituting one quart of this stuff in your oil just thins the hell out of it.
Had so much blow by with that stuff in there.
I will be running just a few ounces of Seafoam in it after I drop the oil after the cam break in.
Can't wait to hear it run again!
Had so much blow by with that stuff in there.
I will be running just a few ounces of Seafoam in it after I drop the oil after the cam break in.
Can't wait to hear it run again!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
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From: Pine Mountain, GA
Hey Rob, I've got the same crud in my engine. How'd you get yours so clean? I was going to scrape it out with a putty knife then attack it with some rags and degreaser but figured I'd see if you found anything that worked particularly well. No reason to reinvent the wheel.
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
I'm an 'Ol Schooler Resto Modder...I like stock with just a few exterior tweeks like smoothie rims with wide whites,etc. Bone stock interior but...under the hood...a built mill that can stand tall when the pedal asks it to. My latest 84 Bullnose 302 4x4 will be "Mild Mannered Sleeper" on the outside but....when I put foot to the pedal.....snicker.
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Freshman User
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I'm an 'Ol Schooler Resto Modder...I like stock with just a few exterior tweeks like smoothie rims with wide whites,etc. Bone stock interior but...under the hood...a built mill that can stand tall when the pedal asks it to. My latest 84 Bullnose 302 4x4 will be "Mild Mannered Sleeper" on the outside but....when I put foot to the pedal.....snicker.
Just some subtle non factory hints here and there..
On a side note...I drove the truck today down my street. Oil pressure gauge drops pretty much to the low mark and I hear a bit of a rattle as I give it a little throttle. Does not rattle at idle. I shut it off, let it sit for 5 minutes and restarted it. Gauge went up to the normal range(closer to the L side of things, engine was hot) and had no rattle. Any body know if the oil pump has a check valve or valve that regulates pressure at different engine speeds?
I know the factory gauges can be spotty.I have an Oil pressure gauge coming for it..
At this point I'm thinking I have an oil pump issue, I'll know better once I can test it with a different gauge.
Any thoughts, guys?
