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The oil pump just has a pressure relief valve that works independent of RPM.
Thanks, Gary.
I guess once I can get some oil pressure numbers I can make a better diagnosis.
It does have a bit of blowby coming from the breathers but it runs strong, mind you it was only up and down the street. It has plenty of power and my carb rebuild came out well, good throttle response and no flat spots.
Manifold vac is a little low 18 inhg but I have not finished adjusting the idle mixture screws.
I think the bottom end might need a little refreshing over the winter....
I guess once I can get some oil pressure numbers I can make a better diagnosis.
It does have a bit of blowby coming from the breathers but it runs strong, mind you it was only up and down the street. It has plenty of power and my carb rebuild came out well, good throttle response and no flat spots.
Manifold vac is a little low 18 inhg but I have not finished adjusting the idle mixture screws.
I think the bottom end might need a little refreshing over the winter....
Get it on the road and drive it. See how much oil it uses. You already know this engine wasn't taken care of, so expect some wear in it. If you dive into it I would do the whole thing.
Just a little update photo... I really love this truck!
Found to oil pressure to be 8ish or so pounds at idle hot.
Once it is hot when I rev it the oil pressure goes down a bit from the number mentioned above.
I'm thinking maybe an oil delivery volume problem? Clogged screen due to all the sludge that was in there? Worn pump?
I am already assuming it has excessive clearances on the main and rod bearings due to the lack of maintenance and hence oil pressure issues.. If the bearings are worn then it should have consistently low oil PSI. PSI dropping while raising the RPM's seem like loss of volume to me. It still has that lifter clatter from the passenger side bank even after I replaced the lifters.
At least there is no knocking from the bottom end but I just need to make sure I figure out the oil pressure issue so I don't grenade the engine.
Any thoughts?
I am going to start to drop the pan tomorrow and take a better look.
i agree with your assessment. Not sure I'd drop the pan just yet, but that's the best way to find out.
So I was able to hook up my oil pressure test gauge and not rely on the Autometer gauge.
At cold start with Rotella 15w-40 and no oil treatment, it had 56 PSI.
After about 15 minutes at fast idle, I kicked the choke down and it was reading 22 PSI at 750 RPM.
Let it idle for 20 more minutes and dropped down to 20 PSI
So after running for 35-40 minutes, I revved it to 2k RPM and it had 26 PSI.
Finally, after running for about 55 minutes, it settled at 10 PSI at 750 RPM.
When I rev it it drops to 8 but never goes any lower than that.
I think I will leave it as is for now and take my chances. As usual, I think I am being a bit too critical about it.
It looks like all is well. But, one question: You say that the pressure drops when you rev the engine. But, does it just drop briefly and come right back up? If so, is there a possibility that the engine RPM is dropping slightly when you hit the throttle? If so, that could account for the drop in pressure.
Did you clean out the return tubes and other areas? I'll be following in your footsteps but a little worried that once I get all the new stuff in and run it for a bit the pickup will just clock right back up again due to whatever stuff might be inside the engine. I don't suppose there's a way to clean out of inaccessible areas without pulling the motor?
Did you clean out the return tubes and other areas? I'll be following in your footsteps but a little worried that once I get all the new stuff in and run it for a bit the pickup will just clock right back up again due to whatever stuff might be inside the engine. I don't suppose there's a way to clean out of inaccessible areas without pulling the motor?
I think most of it will be in the flat areas... pan, under intake, on the heads... there was no crud on the main caps, rods, etc...
I think most of it will be in the flat areas... pan, under intake, on the heads... there was no crud on the main caps, rods, etc...
Ah. On mine, they were over everything, including vertical surfaces. More distressingly, the return hole on the right head was completely covered (which might explain why I had such a bad leak on that valve cover).
He's got the majority of the goop out of it now since he took the pan out. He has already cleaned under the valve covers and under the intake.
You still don't know how much oil it uses. But if it uses some, as long as you keep some in it they will run a long time. The only problem you will run into is plug fouling. If it burns so much that it keeps fouling some of the plugs and it keeps getting a miss in it, then you can't really keep it going.
The oil usage will come from worn and rings and worn valve guides.
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