My ABS light has been on for a while now, and my cruise quit working about the same time the light came on, today I decided to dig into it and see what was causing the light to stay on. The brake light bulb has been burnt out for while too, so I didn't know if both were on or just the ABS light was on. Fixed the brake light bulb first, and it wasn't staying on, just the ABS light was. I checked the fuse for the ABS, it and the cruise are on the same fuse by the way, and it was fine. Next I figured I would bleed the back brakes cause I had been wanting to do that too. When I took the bleeder plug completely out of the pass side rear to clean it out, no fluid came out. Hadn't started bleeding yet, just took the bleeder out. So, I thought well, maybe the RABS unit on the frame rail is bad. I changed it with one from a parts truck, bled the rear brakes, and the ABS light was still on. Next, I changed the ABS module behind the glove box with one from a parts truck, and that was it. The ABS light went off, and the cruise is working again. Since I had never changed the ABS module before, I learned something interesting today when I changed mine......on the back of the modules, there is a sticker that says "SINGLE REAR WHEEL ONLY", or "DUAL REAR WHEEL ONLY". I guess maybe the duallys having two extra wheels and 3 1/2" brake shoes vs the single wheel 3" brake shoes, it dumps the pressure to the rear wheel a little differently or something. Just one of those things that makes you go Hmmmmm.

 

An interesting thought. I know that tractor apply harder in the rear. It offers better stopping power as the weight is disbursed heavy over the rear axles, and holds better control as well when braking.

Perhaps the DRW try to apply that concept as well.

One of the most overlooked functions of a vehicle is how it stops. I have wondered a few questions myself as to the ABS on our trucks. I deal with tractors and their systems are quite a bit different from what I can tell.

 

Personally, I think the Rear ABS on these trucks are not that good of a system. I've thought about just plumbing around the RABS unit down on the frame rail and be done with it. I tow goose necks and 5th wheels, and I want more braking on my rear wheels when towing heavy. I don't like the thought of the ABS taking away my braking power to the rear wheels.

 

Do you feel Bill if you had plumbed around it everything including the cruise would work OK?

 

I wonder how it would take the rear not responding. That and the metering/distribution module would have to be altered I would think.

 

That's the very thing that's being considered to bypass.

 

The cruise would still work fine.

The rear would still respond. Just may respond too well. That's the reason I have never done it.

Exactly. That's why I haven't done it. I don't want to do it, and then have the rear brakes lock up every time I touch the pedal.

 

I dont know because I can not look and see, but theoretically you could swap the front lines for the rear. That would apply the rear before the front, but not so much that it would cause the rear to lock up under normal braking.

 

My biggest concern was to get that stupid light to go out. For now I will just keep the rear brakes adjusted up and drive it. I have a Dana 80 axle with disc brakes that I plan on swapping in the truck when I can, so I'm not gonna really worry about doing anything to it now.

 

I you do ever plan to revisit the idea I would be most interested in seeing how it goes.

 

I will let you know if I do.

 

This info is really good to know! For those of us that have duallies, it really helps. Tried to rep you, but appearently I love you too much already

 

Well, thanks for trying anyway LOL!

 

that is why the abs is bypassed on everything i own except for the 02 diesel. ...for now.
no, the cruise will not work unless the module is good.

 

not to worry, i got him for ya.