ABS light
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
Stupid ABS light is on again. This time though, I start the truck and it's not on. After driving 10-20 miles it comes on and stays on. When I shut the truck off and start it back up, same thing. The module I put in it was from a parts truck with unknown miles or issues. I have a parts truck that only had 65,000 miles on it. I'm gonna put that module in it tomorrow and see what that does. Cruise is still working though. With or without the light on though, my brakes just don't seem that great. All new pads and shoes, and rotors up front. If this keeps up, I am gonna plumb around the RABS unit on the frame rail and see if the brakes are any better.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
No, I haven't. I just got my laptop back yesterday. I have AE, so maybe I'll try hooking it up and see what I can come up with.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
Didn't know that. Thanks. I'll probably put another module in it today and see what happens. I may try to get the codes before I do that though. Got so much crap to do the next couple days. Heading out with the 5th wheel Saturday morning to go start my new job Monday, and it has rained every single stinking day for over a month now! Can't get stuff done to the camper that needs done.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
I checked the codes with the test connector behind the glove box. I got 16 flashes on the ABS light.....15 quick flashes and one long one. From what I have read the codes end with a long flash, so I am assuming it is a code 16. All I can find so far is that a code 16 means the ABS is working properly. I also read just now in a Haynes manual that if you change the HCU (hydraulic control unit) down on the frame rail, that there is special equipment needed to accuate the internals valves while bleeding to get the HCU bled properly. It says the vehicle is not safe to drive otherwise. So, I may just bypass the HCU and plumb the line for the rear brakes from the master straight to the rear brakes. My only question about doing this is, is the piece that screws in the side of the master where the rear brake line connects, a proportioning valve, or does the HCU down on the frame rail also act as the proportioning valve for the rear brakes? I am going to research it some more myself, but any info on this that anyone has will be greatly appreciated. I am on limited time to figure this out.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Southern West Virginia
I read that you include the last long flash in the total count. So it would be a code 16, which means the system is working properly. The light is back to staying on all the time now. Other than check the codes, the only thing I did was change the horn pad out with another one because the ON/OFF button on the cruise was kinda stubborn on the one that was on there. I jacked the rear of the truck up and put it on jack stands. Ran the rear wheels, then stepped on the brake. Seems like it's getting decent braking back there. A couple times I stepped on the brakes with it in gear and rolling the wheels, and it would bog the engine down. I don't know what to do next. I may just leave it til I can afford to replace everything in the brake system. I'm getting frustrated messing with the stupid thing, and I really don't have time to keep messing with it.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Texas
Not to derail, but what's this with the hornpad? My CC is stubborn for the most part as well, It'll work, but you've really gotta mash on it. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts, but it didn't really change it. Sorry for the frustrations!!