Heater box conversion to non ac
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Heater box conversion to non ac
Well I thought I had done all my research on this topic, but ran into a couple problems when I started today.
First po had started process to convert but never finished.
I picked up a non ac heater box and firewall from a 79 bronco. I have a 79 f250 that had factory ac.
Here are my issues
1- where the factory ac goes through firewall, the firewall has a 1/2 in lip turned to inside where the non ac box needs to mount. All the posts say just mount the new firewall on outside to cover the hole. As I look at the lip it seams I must cut out the lip to have a flate surface on inside of firewall.
2-all the posts I read say I need a new heater faceplate. The one already in truck looks like it will accept the cables on backside. I'm do not want to pull dash if I do not need to. What is best way to check if I need to replace controls?
3- I pulled the defrost duct out of bronco, but the existing duct looks 95% same. The only difference is two tabs that the bronc duct has to align with heater box. Do I need to pull the duct?
First po had started process to convert but never finished.
I picked up a non ac heater box and firewall from a 79 bronco. I have a 79 f250 that had factory ac.
Here are my issues
1- where the factory ac goes through firewall, the firewall has a 1/2 in lip turned to inside where the non ac box needs to mount. All the posts say just mount the new firewall on outside to cover the hole. As I look at the lip it seams I must cut out the lip to have a flate surface on inside of firewall.
2-all the posts I read say I need a new heater faceplate. The one already in truck looks like it will accept the cables on backside. I'm do not want to pull dash if I do not need to. What is best way to check if I need to replace controls?
3- I pulled the defrost duct out of bronco, but the existing duct looks 95% same. The only difference is two tabs that the bronc duct has to align with heater box. Do I need to pull the duct?
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Update...the heater box from bronco is in, but the lip on pass size wall is keeping the box from sitting flush. The back of box sits right on the lip. Only problem I see is that this may not be water right with gasket around fan motor.
Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
1. I would of cut the lip off, that way the 79 bronco firewall piece would be flush and water proof.
2. As far as the face plate control panel, the only diff I can see it the old one will have a place for a/c on it. But if the cable will attach and work, then yes less work in the dash.
Pulling the dash bezel to get to and swap the out the control panel is not that hard.
I need an actual pic of the bad female connector, I have a few parts trucks.
2. As far as the face plate control panel, the only diff I can see it the old one will have a place for a/c on it. But if the cable will attach and work, then yes less work in the dash.
Pulling the dash bezel to get to and swap the out the control panel is not that hard.
I need an actual pic of the bad female connector, I have a few parts trucks.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 647
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From: SOUTHBURY CT
i prolly would try cutting a relief cut in the corners of that lip and go around and bend it flat vise grip. that way it could be bent back. and easier too.
i just pulled the heat box out of my truck .( non A/C ) i would think the defrost duct would not line up to the box if it was not flush to the firewall.
i just pulled the heat box out of my truck .( non A/C ) i would think the defrost duct would not line up to the box if it was not flush to the firewall.
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Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Opps forgot the defrost duct....it looks like even though they are the same at the top, look at how the bottom part comes further back, maybe due to the a/c box being bigger?
Also look at the bottom connecting areas one slips over something, and the other one looks like it has a flat plate?
Also look at the bottom connecting areas one slips over something, and the other one looks like it has a flat plate?
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Update:
1) I thought the idea to cut a relief in corners and bend the lip straight makes sence to avoid leaking. I only had to cut this relief in one location upper right when looking from inside. I was then able to bend 2-3 inches of the top lip and 8-10 inches of right side lip flat. So far things fit much better. I still need to resolve how to attach the new plate to the firewall along this 13" edge, as any screw would drive dirrectly into the box.
2) I have no tbeen able to find a picture that is close up of the blower mottor connector. It is single terminal wire (blk w wht stipe) and comes out of the wire harness just 6 inches form blower, back left of engine compartment.
3) I am trying to resolve what is the gasket or seal that goes between the bottom of the defrost duct and the top of the heater box. Setup does not look to be right without some form of a rectangular foam gasket.
tks
1) I thought the idea to cut a relief in corners and bend the lip straight makes sence to avoid leaking. I only had to cut this relief in one location upper right when looking from inside. I was then able to bend 2-3 inches of the top lip and 8-10 inches of right side lip flat. So far things fit much better. I still need to resolve how to attach the new plate to the firewall along this 13" edge, as any screw would drive dirrectly into the box.
2) I have no tbeen able to find a picture that is close up of the blower mottor connector. It is single terminal wire (blk w wht stipe) and comes out of the wire harness just 6 inches form blower, back left of engine compartment.
3) I am trying to resolve what is the gasket or seal that goes between the bottom of the defrost duct and the top of the heater box. Setup does not look to be right without some form of a rectangular foam gasket.
tks
Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
For question #3 have you looked here? Ford HEATER AND A/C - 57-79 Truck, 61-67 Econoline list - CG Ford Parts
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Recieved back the following responce from above linky....
79 f250 defroster duct to heater box gasket (Maybe PN D5TZ-18547-A)
Sorry, we do not have one or know of a company that offers one in reproduction.
79 f250 defroster duct to heater box gasket (Maybe PN D5TZ-18547-A)
Sorry, we do not have one or know of a company that offers one in reproduction.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,761
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From: Knoxville, TN
Correct. There is no valve, just the heater hoses straight through the heater core.
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