Dura-spark ignition module failure
The first time was probably 2007 when I was having intermittent no start / no spark problems and the second time was just last Monday on the way back from the coast.
It was 100 degrees when I drove over on Friday and I thought I noticed some surging at higher speed. But then on the return trip Monday it started cutting out as soon as I hit the highway. At 2,500 RPM the tach would drop out and it would totally bog. If I tried to push it it would pop and backfire.
Fortunately I had a brand new spare on board (a tip I picked up from this site) and it wasn't long before it was swapped out and I was back on my way.
Moral of the Dura-spark story: Always carry a spare module.
And, I hadn't thought about it, but the tach dropping out is a good indicator since it gets its signal from the primary side of the coil. No tach means the DS box is not functioning - whether it is the box's fault, the pickup in the distributor, or something else.
But I think I might get me a spare just to toss in the back of the truck just for safety.
But I think I might get me a spare just to toss in the back of the truck just for safety.
The module I replaced the first time (since I owned it) was not a Motorcraft so I know it had been replaced at least once before.
In my case I think the heat from the 460 stuffed into a van chassis must cook them. It gets mighty hot in there, especially when it's 100 degrees outside.
I've often wondered if some kind of hood scoop would help keep the engine bay cooler.
The module I replaced the first time (since I owned it) was not a Motorcraft so I know it had been replaced at least once before.
In my case I think the heat from the 460 stuffed into a van chassis must cook them. It gets mighty hot in there, especially when it's 100 degrees outside.
I've often wondered if some kind of hood scoop would help keep the engine bay cooler.










