When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LOL, no problem. I like your project more. Deserves its own thread instead of being buried in this loser.
I had a '68 Fastback. 289 w 302 heads, Holly, Edelbrock, solid lifters, torque converter and manual shift automatic. Real nice and real fast except for the doggy stock 2.73 rear end. Sold it for $400 in '77.
Got a thread you may want to look at. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15515373
The guy on Ebay that I sometimes buy from has a lot of E-series
ambulance parts for the 6.0 body and engine parts you might
find handy. he is a good guy also. I have talked to him on the phone
a few times on odd ball things I was looking for.
Also if you need some Simpsons collectable items...
But my wife wrecked my car and the body shop said frame was bent
I called insurance co said I think your getting hosed by you preferred shop they sent someone to look at it I'm sure the dude from body shop meet with him and looked at car together
Insurance adjuster took bunch of pic sent them to me put an arrow on one pic and said this was where the frame was bent
There bent frame was a manufacture contour
It has identicle contour on other side of frame what were the odds the wreck would bent it to perfict measurements absolutly none
The bottom line was the frame was not bent at all and I put the car back on road for 400 bucks
I can see the bend in mine. It is right at one of those "contours" - the frame guy told me those contours are where it's designed to bend. But I can see the buckled metal above and below, on the short legs of the frame's channel steel, not across the width. He did say that it wasn't a bad bend, and would only cost a few hundred dollars to straighten - when I find a shop with a big enough frame machine.
Well, progress has been slow. Just got the body shop to start on it today. All I've authorized is repairing the suspension and steering. Found a used I-beam for $125 and the rest of the parts are under $400 new. Shop doing the labor for $450.
Here's some pics of the damage. Bad news: the body shop's tow truck wasn't long enough, and he didn't figure that out until if was off my trailer and halfway on his bed. Couldn't get it back on my trailer from that point without a forklift. Ended up crunching the oil and tranny pans a bit.
LH wheel well. You can see the up-bend on the top of the frame, just to the left of the shock.
just a sideways shot showing the missing LH I-beam
back of the wheel well showing where the body has lifted up off the frame.
the pros knew immediately that the frame was bent when they saw the bend in the door frame right above the mirror mount. That cracked the windshield. Told me cars aren't designed to bend there, so they knew the frame had to give.
I don't know this shop at all - was just looking for a storage yard for my truck while I searched for a shop, and this guy owned the storage yard as well. So, I've only authorized him to repair the suspension - I need it to be able to roll and steer so I can take it to another frame shop if need be. Did't want to negotiate with him from a position of weakness.
The shop that got recommended to me, up by Dallas, said it was too big for their machine. This guy claims to be able to do it on his, but he wanted to get in all torn apart so he could see it better before giving me a price.
The first guy said it wasn't that bad - maybe $400-$500 to straighten it out. So, I'll wait to see how good this guy is on the suspension. After he bunged up the pans, I'm being cautious, although that was an easy mistake and unrelated to his mechanical ability.
Yeah, I mentioned to the tech/tow truck driver (small shop) that I saw the damage and know he did it, but I didn't press it right now. Want them to think I'm cool with it, until they do the work. Since they're only getting $450 for labor and have already towed my ambulance twice (to their storage lot and then to their shop) and aren't charging me for storing it two weeks (which is why I originally came to them) while I found the parts, I don't want them to think this is an unprofitable customer right out of the gate.
I figure that once they have the suspension fixed, I'll bring it up when they give me an estimate for the frame and body work; let them work it into that cost - as long as they're still competitive with other shops.
I expect replacing the oil pan will cost as much as the suspension - they're a lot of work to get off, aren't they?
Oh my, you don't know? Well, burst my hero bubble.
Um, Well lets see then.
If you take the amount of time that it would for a F-series and double
that and add 10. I think that you might be near to time.
Um, Well lets see then.
If you take the amount of time that it would for a F-series and double
that and add 10. I think that you might be near to time.
I hate to even ask how long it takes for an F-Series. Maybe better question: if the drain plug still screws in/out and there's no leak, wouldn't the frugal choice be to just live with the dented pan?
I hate to even ask how long it takes for an F-Series. Maybe better question: if the drain plug still screws in/out and there's no leak, wouldn't the frugal choice be to just live with the dented pan?
One concern would be if the oil pickup got damaged in any way????
One concern would be if the oil pickup got damaged in any way????
So would step one be to pull the oil filter and see if the bowl fills up like it should?
Would a damaged pick up make any noise, or would there be any other discernible symptom I could look for.
I'll be back over there in the morning to take some pics. Figured to start it up again and let it run a few minutes, but now I'm wondering if I need to confirm the oil pick up is good first.
For the record, the pan is not bent a whole lot. Just flattened out the very bottom to the point where the side/bottom corner angle is square rather than rounded. but did push the bolt up too.
Bad news: truck needed $500 more in suspension parts.
Good news: I pulled the batteries and had them tested. Two almost new Interstate 850CCA 6-year babies that are still good. Charged them up and reinstalled. Still need to pull the AUX batteries - they are huge, half again as big as the 850s. Not sure of their capacity.
More good news: Cranked it and it started right up, sounded fine, but I only ran it a few seconds.
Bad news: it's leaking coolant near the radiator. It's only about 2 miles to my house, do you think I could get it there without it overheating?
This shop says their frame machine can handle the truck and will have a quote to me in the morning. The suspension work is finished. The truck rolls and steers. It's possible I could drive it home, or just leave it with them for the frame work.
Anyone have any experience with estimating the cost of frame repair? The first guy who looked at it, but his machine wasn't big enough, said he'd charge about $500 to bend it back, if he could. Does that sound reasonable?
Is it just one task? By that, I mean will bending the frame back also pull the twist back out of the cab? Or, is the cab a second task? I realize the cab has damage that has to be repaired, it won't just magically pull back to normal. Just wondering if there is another step between repairing the frame and doing the typical bodywork/painting.
