Hello everyone. I have read a lot of post about the 460 . I have an 85 f 350 4x4 that I bought a few months ago . I know it had vacume leaks but it was totally stock aside having a Holley 750 . I bought a used weilnd stealth intake and ordered intake gaskets from summit #1231 . Before I swapped intakes I had an mechanical Holley I put on the other night . But once I hooked it up it seemed as if I was out of gas . So I added more and still nothing . Well I got my intake gaskets in the day before so I tore into it pulling the distributer and intake . After cleaning all surfaces I reassembled using the stealth intake . But once I tried starting it it starts like the timing is too advanced no matter how far I retard it . And the selionoid on the fender smokes . I pulled the distributer 3 times now running to tdc and still the same thing . So any advice thanks

 

Tell us step by step how you are setting the dist timing.

What is your method of finding TDC?

How are you determining where the dist should set? Are you going by the rotor?

 

Thanks for responding . First I started from scratch I pulled the dist and then tried turning it over and it still turned over as if the dist was too advanced . So I grabbed the cables on the selonoid . And they were loose .... So I tightened them and ran # 1 up to tdc on compression stroke and dropped the dist back down in so it aims to # 1 on the cap . It seems to be running a lot better now but still have a fuel prob .. I added a 4 to 7 psi Holley electric fuel pump on today but it's like it looses its prime . So I'm not sure what's going on with that . I've always been a mechanical pump guy but I've found out this has an electric pump in the tank ? Well I'm curious if I can just make it a mechanical pump off the camshaft and hope to not have problems like I am now .. I know there's the other fuel line coming out of the tank but was not sure if I could close that off ? Thanks for your time .. PS once I got it running ok on timing I advanced it a bit and it runs like a madman for what it is . Now I just have a fuel problem

 

I know some people do it, but I am not a fan of trying to pull fuel through a old pump still in the tank. Do you have dual tanks or had dual tanks? If you have or had dual tanks you have a switching valve on the frame which is also famous for going bad.

 

The second line is the return line, the stock system uses an "orifice valve' which is essentially a controlled leak into the return line, which in conjunction with the needle and seats control pressure. Change to a non stock style carb with different bowl volume, and it just doesn't work.
If you haven't already bypassed the orifice valve just before the carb, you will want to do so, then your aftermarket pump may work right.
Also, where did you locate your pump? Electric pumps push much better than they pull, ideal location is just aft of the transmission crossmember, so it is below the bottom of tank.

 

Double Post

 

Ok to Franklin2, I do agree about pulling fuel thru another pump.. It crossed my mind as well . Thing is my tank is leaking and I'm gonna put a new one in it. But I felt a plug go into it at the top . Is there a mechanical pump tank I can get for it without a spot for the electric pump . Also it does not have duel tanks it's just a side mount . So there's no switch over valve on it . Thanks a ton !!!

 

To 82F100SWB: I did remove that orifice valve so I don't have it bleeding off anymore . But this is my first run with an aftermarket electric pump . I mounted it on the l/s fender well but know know it needs to be lower . I'll mount it where you suggested and I'm thinking that should solve it. Thanks again !!

 

My stock engine did have the eccentric for a mechanical fuel pump, and I could have installed a standard mechanical pump on it, but apparently not all did, so you have to pull the block off plate off and check.

I feed my reasonably mild engine with a Carter P4070 rotary vane pump, which is 72 gph, and it is happy.