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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Running problems

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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 02:17 PM
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Running problems

My issue is I have a 1986 F250, 460, 4x2 automatic with 78,000 miles on it. It doesn’t get drive much but has been in the family since new. I was doing some maintenance on it, replaced the rear brakes, new water pump and timing chain, fresh oil and coolant. I also replaced the front tank fuel pump. Now my issue is the truck starts up and idle great, but won't after a minute. So far I’ve done, new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, rebuilt the carb, change the carb fuel filter, the inline fuel filter, tank fuel filter, and even put the pump in a 5 gallon bucket with fresh gas only to have it do the same thing. When I replaced the timing chain I installed an Edelbrock 7830 Performer-Link Timing Chain and Gear Set, and also desmogged the truck, the only vacuum lines I don't have hooked up is the distributor advance as it hasn't ran long enough.

When it starts and runs you can push on the gas and it'll throttle up but if it starts dying and you go to apply the gas it dies. I don't know what to do anymore as its getting gas and spark and the timing is correct.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 03:16 PM
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[Quote]:Before anyone tells me to search I have been.
First off...not a good way to start a thread.
That being said, being as how the truck is not driven much, how sure are you about the quality of the fuel in the tank, or was that also refreshed? Is it normally aspirated?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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Edited out, I didn't mean for it to come across as bad. And yes, the gas is good, fuel stablizer was put in the tank before the last time it was parked. I also dropped the tank to pull the pump and change it out. An before I put the tank back in I put the pump in a 5 gallon bucket with fresh fuel to make sure it wasn't the fuel causing issues
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Edited out, I didn't mean for it to come across as bad. And yes, the gas is good, fuel stablizer was put in the tank before the last time it was parked. I also dropped the tank to pull the pump and change it out. An before I put the tank back in I put the pump in a 5 gallon bucket with fresh fuel to make sure it wasn't the fuel causing issues
Gotcha...it's all good. Maybe the accelerator pump is sticking? I did read that the carb was rebuilt. Is it a 2v or 4v ?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 03:45 PM
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Its a 4 barrel holly 4180C that was just rebuild Friday actually with a Hygrade carb kit.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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I'm not all that versed with Holley's but, is the choke set correctly for your environment?
(not sure of the region you live in). Also, the float level plays a big part. There are many members here who are better suited than i am about levels and such.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 05:14 PM
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Yes, the carb was rebuilt 5 years ago by a guy in the area and the truck ran great, so when I pulled it apart to rebuild it thinking it was just all gummed up i reset everything back to the way he had it. My elevation is only 942 feet above sea level.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Yes, the carb was rebuilt 5 years ago by a guy in the area and the truck ran great, so when I pulled it apart to rebuild it thinking it was just all gummed up i reset everything back to the way he had it. My elevation is only 942 feet above sea level.
No offense, but that tells me nothing Are You in the U.S. ? Northwest, Northeast, Southern ?
If you are north of the Mason-Dixon Line...it's 190 or above. If You are south of the M-D line, 180. BTW 5 years is a long time...."Stuff Happens".
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 05:38 PM
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I live in Washington state. Yes 5 years is a long time, but I also did adjust it with it on the truck. But any input on more adjustment or tricks to make sure its adjusted right would be very helpful.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 06:12 PM
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If I understand, the truck was doing this, you rebuilt the carb, and it is still behaving this way.
Tell me again why you wont connect the vacuum advance?

What timing set did you use?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
I installed an Edelbrock 7830 Performer-Link Timing Chain and Gear Set
and I haven't connector the advance yet because it won't stay running long enough for me to figure out what port I need. Could the Vacuum advance be causing this issue? Becuase it was there before emmisons removal, and has been happening ever since as well
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 06:32 PM
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The distributor connects to the thermal vacuum switch on the thermostat housing.
It has a tiny plastic piece with a vacuum restriction in that line.

You can look at the vacuum routing diagram on the radiator support.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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Sorry, I read that and should have said I am not familiar with that set.

Which keyway did you use?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 06:47 PM
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Ah, thank you for I didn't realize thats how the Ford's worked since my back ground is in Toyota's. And I used the keyway that advanced it 4*. I believe this is a straight up timing chain set from my research.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 06:51 PM
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There's your problem!

You want the '0' mark

This is "straight up" timing, with the tooth centered directly over the keyway. (Pointing at the cam)
 
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