2016 F250 Order
Questions:
-Any reason to consider the dual alternators for 357A over the included single heavy duty at 200A? Would think 200A should be plenty
-Any reason to get factory wheel well liners? Don't like the way they look (though haven't seen in person) and would think it should hold up fine without them
-If I order uplifter switches, where are they at on dash? Don't need them or foresee needing them but some recommended them before in case ever need to add something, but not sure if I will like how they look
-Any reason to get the factory 5th wheel hitch when won't need for several more years? Can get after market for 1/2 the price that will still clip into the factory prep, and would hope I still can down the road
What I know I'm getting:
-F250 Lariat
-Crew Cab
-Diesel
-8' bed
-4X4 with Fx4 pkg./3.55 locking rear axle
-18" wheels
-Lariat Interior pkg. with rear heated/cooled seat added
-Rapid heat interior heater
-Spray in liner
-Factory 5th wheel/gooseneck prep
Thanks!
Personally, I think the wheel liners are worth it. I bought a new 2011 and added the liners. You can not see them and they do keep a lot of dirt from being slung up into the fender area. You can always add them later. They are not difficult to install.
Single or dual alternator is not a huge deal unless you plan on adding more accessories such as a big winch and/or snow plow. To add duals later is a lot of work and cost to convert.
i notice no floor mats and that is good. Let the truck come with the carpet mats and then get a set of Husky floor liners.
Maybe opt for the block heater?
Maybe the cable lock?
You want to add the high idle mod, most hook the mod to one of the upfitter switches and if you add extra lights, they would need a switch. Upfitter switches can be added later but it is easier to let factory do it. They are located in the center of the dash right above the console. The trailer brake controls are on the left side and the upfitter switches on the right side.
Some people like the lights on the top of the cab. Is cheap to add them verses adding later. Not necessary but I think is cool looking to see them coming down the road.
The thing is, if you are financing the truck, roll as much as you can into it so you don't have to pull money out of your pocket or on the credit card. Also, consider the Ford ESP for 7/8 years 100/125k miles.'
Something else I would suggest to buy is the Stant locking Fuel cap. pn 10510D. Might prevent putting def in the fuel tank or someone sabotaging you truck. At this time, there is no locking def cap. The def repairs are a lot cheaper than the fuel system repairs.
Just my two cents
I would also recommend going with a 350 over the 250, but then that's a personal call as well as a registration per state preference.
The upfitters switches are a no brainer purchase that I feel should be standard feature.
I love my truck I got a 15 Lariat Magnetic in color.
Personally, I think the wheel liners are worth it. I bought a new 2011 and added the liners. You can not see them and they do keep a lot of dirt from being slung up into the fender area. You can always add them later. They are not difficult to install.
Single or dual alternator is not a huge deal unless you plan on adding more accessories such as a big winch and/or snow plow. To add duals later is a lot of work and cost to convert.
i notice no floor mats and that is good. Let the truck come with the carpet mats and then get a set of Husky floor liners.
Maybe opt for the block heater?
Maybe the cable lock?
You want to add the high idle mod, most hook the mod to one of the upfitter switches and if you add extra lights, they would need a switch. Upfitter switches can be added later but it is easier to let factory do it. They are located in the center of the dash right above the console. The trailer brake controls are on the left side and the upfitter switches on the right side.
Some people like the lights on the top of the cab. Is cheap to add them verses adding later. Not necessary but I think is cool looking to see them coming down the road.
The thing is, if you are financing the truck, roll as much as you can into it so you don't have to pull money out of your pocket or on the credit card. Also, consider the Ford ESP for 7/8 years 100/125k miles.'
Something else I would suggest to buy is the Stant locking Fuel cap. pn 10510D. Might prevent putting def in the fuel tank or someone sabotaging you truck. At this time, there is no locking def cap. The def repairs are a lot cheaper than the fuel system repairs.
Just my two cents
On my current truck, I put aftermarket floor mats. On this one was considering the factory heavy duty ones because they are decent price, lock on the carpet tab, and look much heavier then what they had back when I got my current truck, but won't decide until I see them in person.
Will reconsider the liners and will try to see them in person first as well.
OK, definitely now adding the switches and doing only the single HD alternator.
What's the high idle mod? Any input on why I'd need it? Is it just something that kicks in high idle if voltage begins dropping?
The 350 isn't worth the extra $1K for me, only allows 600lb. more trailer capacity on 5th wheel according to their site with my config. (15700 vs. 15100) so won't be an issue for me.
Thanks again.
I would also recommend going with a 350 over the 250, but then that's a personal call as well as a registration per state preference.
The upfitters switches are a no brainer purchase that I feel should be standard feature.
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I like to buy an XL truck like I did with this on because I try to drive them until the wheels fall off.
I like to just get Power windows/mirrors, air conditioning, and whatever suspension/work options I need.
Then I "customize" everything else I want.
I did this with my current truck. I got 10K GVWR, plow package, engine heater, clearance lights also on this one.
So far I've added factor fog lights for $150 and upfitter switches for $130, a cap, wheels & tire package.
Soon I'll add an aftermarket nav system/satt radio.
I like doing it this way because a lot of the tech stuff becomes obsolete and its easier to upgrade to state of the art 5-6 years from now without the sync system and all the other electronics tied into the truck.
YMMV
On a side note, I did buy SD floor mats. They were about $80. I don't have carpeting though, as I like to just open all the doors occasionally and hose the floor out when it gets muddy.





