4.4 AMP draw problem..help?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Glendale AZ
I did that the other day and again today. It's something like .01 amp draw when it's connected like that.
After another 8 hours of work on the truck today I've got it down to a couple things. I started completely over with a different meter, just to make sure. It seems my Fluke either shows just about nothing or 4.4 amps all the time. It's strange. Anyway, with a cheap 12V meter that was new I set it on 20 MA and started getting somewhere. I already had almost everything in the truck disconnected so I just had to start putting things back in. I finally came up with the conclusion that the ABS module is pulling more amps than my cheap meter can read. Even on 200MA it just goes to a 1 and some spaces...no idea what that means other than it's overloaded. Pulling the plug on the ABS module brought it back to 3.86 amps again. Then if I pull Maxi fuse 22 it drops back to .81 amp draw.
Now here is the new question. The owners manual says that Maxi fuse #22 is the Junction Box Battery Feed. What does that mean?
I put everything back together after finding this today and at least made sure it would start up and run again. Unfortunately it needs new negative terminals on the battery cables again.
I'm still stuck on what is actually causing the draw but feel like I got somewhere with it today. Any ideas?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,089
Likes: 16
50 amp Fuse 22 feeds fuses in the cab fuse box that stay hot with the key off. Its a tan/black wire into the fuse box on c242B pin11 (back of interior fuse box) . It feeds fuses 13 15 1 12 2 3 4 and 14 i think.
Its a straight run thru 2 connectors c242b at fuse box and the top big one next to steering wheel. So if that wire is the draw with the fuse box out.
Its a straight run thru 2 connectors c242b at fuse box and the top big one next to steering wheel. So if that wire is the draw with the fuse box out.
Junior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 64
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I just started having a draw problem with a 2003 f250 7.3 a few days ago and found this thread. I haven't solved my problem but have found some interesting things that may or may not help both of us. My draw seems to be about 150ma, when disconnecting the passenger battery with the driver battery still connected the dome lights drop to half brightness and sometimes blink bright to dim, not sure what that is but can't be good. Batteries have been recharged and draw tested both being good. Have had batteries drawn down to almost nothing by sitting for a few days before I realized there was a draw problem last week. I am by no means an expert, but do have 4 of the 7.3 diesels, 1 2001 and 3 2003's. Never had a draw problem before so this all new to me. Pulling fuse 11 and 35 seems to stop all draw but that may be just some dash or computer draw. Only weird thing was the 4 way flashers making noise at steering column when having meter between battery and positive cable doing testing, turning the hazard button on made the noise quit and I did make sure it was on/off by connecting battery to test. Will keep you posted if I find anything concrete.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
I just started having a draw problem with a 2003 f250 7.3 a few days ago and found this thread. I haven't solved my problem but have found some interesting things that may or may not help both of us. My draw seems to be about 150ma, when disconnecting the passenger battery with the driver battery still connected the dome lights drop to half brightness and sometimes blink bright to dim, not sure what that is but can't be good. Batteries have been recharged and draw tested both being good. Have had batteries drawn down to almost nothing by sitting for a few days before I realized there was a draw problem last week. I am by no means an expert, but do have 4 of the 7.3 diesels, 1 2001 and 3 2003's. Never had a draw problem before so this all new to me. Pulling fuse 11 and 35 seems to stop all draw but that may be just some dash or computer draw. Only weird thing was the 4 way flashers making noise at steering column when having meter between battery and positive cable doing testing, turning the hazard button on made the noise quit and I did make sure it was on/off by connecting battery to test. Will keep you posted if I find anything concrete.
If you have a difference in power when one is connected vs. the other, you likely have either have a battery problem, a battery cable problem, or a ground problem with the battery showing the unsteady lights.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I am sure everyone already know this, but anything that has a relay is a possible culprit as the the relay can fail so even if the button, switch, etc. is off, the relay can still start to fail and drain power. Had one of those the other day.
Isn't electricity fun?
Steve
Isn't electricity fun?
Steve
Junior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 64
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found my problem, charged batteries a few days ago and hadn't hooked them back up to cables. one tested good, with load tester, the other load tested almost zero. The good one had been drawn down by the bad one. Had this problem before on other multiple battery diesels. Doesn't solve anyone else's problem though. Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
found my problem, charged batteries a few days ago and hadn't hooked them back up to cables. one tested good, with load tester, the other load tested almost zero. The good one had been drawn down by the bad one. Had this problem before on other multiple battery diesels. Doesn't solve anyone else's problem though. Thanks
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