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A friend of mine had a similar issue with his car years ago. After several attempts to fix it it turned out to be a wire pinched under a body/dash mounting screw causing a resistance short to ground. Has any work been done in that area that you are aware of? I know that you mentioned that this may be a preexisting problem but wondering if the PO had installed and removed any after market stuff.
My initial thought was the problem was possibly due to something after-market, although the OP's initial post says nothing after-market is hooked up. I wonder what, if any after-market there was.
Since he has narrowed it down to four fuses under the hood, that suggests the possibility of a wire bundle being pinched. At the very least, it does not sound like the problem is a single fuse.
As far as I can tell, the only things that are aftermarket that have ever been installed on this truck is the trailer control brake module and the pillar gauges. They have both been pulled out of the system for testing. Besides the trailer module was working fine. The pillar gauges I installed but they died pretty soon after installation and after the problem was already there. They were a cheap set and I have no idea why they quit working, the company wouldn't ever respond to my inquiries for warranty returns either.
I agree that I believe these four items share a common issue. If I pull the second large firewall plug I can eliminate one of those four fuses, meaning it doesn't share the common plug going through the firewall. This makes it more confusing to me. The other three I'm trying today to figure if they share the same plug going through the firewall.
I don't see any evidence that there was ever an amp or aftermarket stereo installed, or any other electrically run item. The wire loom is untouched and I see no signs that any of the connectors or looms have any issues. I'm starting from the front and working my way back still.
If anyone sees an error in my thinking, please let me know. Right now I believe it must be between the under hood fuses and the interior fuse block as has been mentioned. I just don't know how to go about finding it without splitting the loom open.
I agree with your logic, but keep coming back to how seldom, if ever I see that kind of problem in the stuff I work on and at times the looms and number of circuits dwarf those in our trucks. Normally when I get this confused, I eventually find the culprit and it is something really simple, but as you say, it seems there is no place else to go at present.
Was the brake controller a plug and play or was the black lead powering it wired in? Just searching.
The controller was a plug and play type. It plugged right into the factory slot.
The gauges only had power going to them through the headlamp switch to power the lights. Since they were all mechanical otherwise. That's why I don't understand why they all failed. Even the boost gauge quit at the same time as the EGT and trans temp. Since they weren't wired together other than for the lights I don't get it. Surely you'd think a mechanical gauge would still work...probably not related to the issue though since it was there before the gauges were installed and they've been completely removed now.
I agree, if/when I find this issue, I'm sure I'll go, "REALLY, THAT WAS IT!" and move on. I just hope that time comes. I probably have over 40 hours chasing this issue since I bought the truck. The problem is that I can't in good conscience sell it to someone else without them knowing the issue is there. And no one that knows it is there will buy it.
Humor me. Take 30 secs under the truck and disconnect the positive wire from the starter.
I recently went through this kind of trouble and it ended up being the starter/solenoid partially shorting.
It's quick and easy to check. I pulled and tested every fused circuit with a meter and tools, battery work, etc. If it hadn't quit, I might still not have found it- or ended up stuck in a parking lot somewhere
Seriously, it's only one nut. I would recommend you disconnect your batteries first to make sure you don't touch any metal with your ratchet, disconnect the starter wire at the starter, tie it away from any metal, then reconnect your batteries and test again.
Hopefully it is that simple- starters are about $70.
I recently went through this kind of trouble and it ended up being the starter/solenoid partially shorting.
I've seen this a few times as well.The fact that he did isolate the draw to a couple of fuses in the box says that's not the problem, but if it was me I would check it anyway.
One other free check...is the alternator warm to the touch after the truck has sat overnight? and have you disconnected the alternator and checked to see if the draw was still there?
I have replaced the starter solenoid since this problem existed with no change. I also pulled the power wire going from the power solenoid on the passenger side fender and still had the draw, effectively eliminating the starter being the issue.
The alternator is also new as of 500 miles ago, but isn't hot and has been disconnected for testing. Still have the draw.
Now on to new stuff. When I went out today to work on it I had 2 amps with the four fuses pulled that were causing the draw. Yesterday it was down to .74 with those out. How could it have changed overnight with nothing being turned on, the door opened, the key inserted etc? It now won't drop below the 2 amp draw.
To delve further into this issue I disconnected the three large connectors feeding everything inside the firewall. This only eliminated two of the four fuses. Meaning two of them still have the 4.4 amp draw even though the large connectors aren't feeding the power through the firewall. In my mind this points to something between the power distribution block and the firewall...right?
Keep in mind the radio, GEM and interior fuse block are completely out of the system at this point. Meaning anything down stream electrically from the interior fuse block has been eliminated.
I have replaced the starter solenoid since this problem existed with no change. I also pulled the power wire going from the power solenoid on the passenger side fender and still had the draw, effectively eliminating the starter being the issue.
The alternator is also new as of 500 miles ago, but isn't hot and has been disconnected for testing. Still have the draw.
Now on to new stuff. When I went out today to work on it I had 2 amps with the four fuses pulled that were causing the draw. Yesterday it was down to .74 with those out. How could it have changed overnight with nothing being turned on, the door opened, the key inserted etc? It now won't drop below the 2 amp draw.
To delve further into this issue I disconnected the three large connectors feeding everything inside the firewall. This only eliminated two of the four fuses. Meaning two of them still have the 4.4 amp draw even though the large connectors aren't feeding the power through the firewall. In my mind this points to something between the power distribution block and the firewall...right?
Keep in mind the radio, GEM and interior fuse block are completely out of the system at this point. Meaning anything down stream electrically from the interior fuse block has been eliminated.
How about the distribution block itself? Are the fuses simply feeding a draw through the block?
Good you already eliminated the starter as a candidate. Shame it wasn't that simple
Do you have power seats or pedals? Power seats are factory.
Security system? Brake controller? No security system, brake controller has been eliminated.
IIRC 4 amps is about what my interior lights + running boards draw (these have LEDs but some flickering issues). No running boards and lights come on and off on the interior like they should.
Fuel bowl heater? Glove box light? Under hood light? Defrost? Power mirrors/defrost? Wiper motors? All fused, and with no fuse box in place right now I still have the draw.
Tuner? ECM staying alive (not dropping to low power)? I pulled the ECM out totally and it's still drawing.
Anything spliced into your harness under your dash/steering column? Nope, everything is factory here.
Trailer harness/plug rubbed through or shorting (look underneath at condition) I've looked at it thoroughly but keep thinking about this one. Shouldn't all this be run through the tail light fuse though?
Do you have AE? You can pull each door sensor to determine if it is on or not . I wish I had an AE or access to one. I don't know anyone in the area though.
Cigarette lighter/power port- always on These are also fused so not the problem. Besides I don't leave anything plugged in to create a draw here either.
All door locks and windows work okay? Yup, they all work like they should.
GPS/Nav unit? I took mine out, it stays one a few minutes after shutting off the truck. Again, nothing of the kinds. Sometimes I wish I had a GPS, but since I haven't hardly been able to drive this truck in the five years I've owned it I don't go far enough to get lost.
CD/DVD in the radio? Bluetooth? Factory radio that isn't working or even in the truck. No aftermarket anything.
It's just a list, but it seems that's where you're at...
I sure wish it was one of the items listed above. Trust me that would have been easy compared to what I'm dealing with.
I answered all the questions you had in the quote. Any more ideas?
I'm not just trying to shoot all these things down. I appreciate the suggestions. I just wish it was that easy.
RV Tech, I have begun to wonder about that myself. I have taken the back of it off and looked it over very closely and can't see any damage to it. I also can't find where in the world I'd get a new one for it. Ford parts doesn't even list it, at least not by any name I thought to search for.
I seriously wonder if it wouldn't be easier to replace the wire harness from the distribution block to the firewall. The problem is I don't know or even think that's the entire problem. Since I disconnected the three big connectors going through the firewall and the short is still there it tells me there may be more than one issue here.
Anyone want to buy a really great truck that just has a draw?
I'm not just trying to shoot all these things down. I appreciate the suggestions. I just wish it was that easy.
No problem here, I'm only trying to help with some ideas. You've tried a lot of things!
I was thinking of things that are still powered with the key off.
When I put my key in the ignition, without turning it, my seat moves into the last programmed position. When I remove the key, it moves back to give you room to get out/in.
Have you checked the battery cable that crosses over the top of your radiator to the other battery? It was on my list of things to check when I was looking.
Do you have a fuse panel under the hood in this model? My Ex doesn't.
I recently found a damaged wiring bundle underneath my wife's under the hood fuse panel on her minivan. It had rubbed on the fender.
At this point, I'd start at the batteries and start tracing from there. There are probably fusible links (I haven't worked with them on these vehicles, just my old truck). They aren't supposed to damage other wires, but who knows.
Key out of the ignition, alternator disconnected.
Do you have a solenoid under the hood?
Be sure to check each major solenoid (starter, glow plug) and direct + to - device (such as alternator, fuse panels, etc) to make SURE they are wired correctly.
A solenoid miswired (reversed power connectors, always hot COM, etc) will cause a drain. A miswired alternator can cause a drain.
Disconnect your ignition. You say you disconnected the GEM.
Disconnect your IDM. It can get water in it and short out.
Also ask this: What have you replaced or worked on lately when this problem started? Surely you didn't have a drain this whole time?
Other than these things, you likely have a damaged harness somewhere. A wire rubbed, shorted, got hot, something and the insulation is damaged and rubbing ground or touching another wire.
Get some DeOxit to clean your connectors (if you're taking them apart to troubleshoot, may as well take a few moments to fix them up!).
Pull each main harness plug (such as below) and retest for drain. If you still have drain, leave the plug open. Take some pics as you go. They will help you remember where things go- and post them here so maybe someone will notice something amiss
If you weren't so far from me, I'd bring my meter and tools...
Oh- and pull the cruise control power from the brake master cylinder (I think that is where it is?) That part has a recall for shorting out and causing fires. Maybe it is shorting out? We'll grasp that can call it a straw, LOL.
I've answered the questions inside the quote again. Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
No problem here, I'm only trying to help with some ideas. You've tried a lot of things!
I was thinking of things that are still powered with the key off.
When I put my key in the ignition, without turning it, my seat moves into the last programmed position. When I remove the key, it moves back to give you room to get out/in. My drivers seat is powered. I've been thinking about this all night too. I'm pretty sure it's fused though and with the fuse block out it should have eliminated it as well.
Have you checked the battery cable that crosses over the top of your radiator to the other battery? It was on my list of things to check when I was looking. I replaced the positive cable a couple years ago, less than 1000 miles though. It had the drain before I replaced it. I also disconnected it from the solenoid on the passenger fender and the draw went away.
Do you have a fuse panel under the hood in this model? My Ex doesn't. Yes I do, this is the one that I've been working primarily with since the interior one didn't make any difference with all the fuses pulled, then I pulled it completely out of the system.
I recently found a damaged wiring bundle underneath my wife's under the hood fuse panel on her minivan. It had rubbed on the fender. Honestly I think this is the most possible issue. The problem is I've checked as much of the wiring as I can and haven't found anything rubbed. I also had my wife watch the meter and nothing changed when I moved the harnesses.
At this point, I'd start at the batteries and start tracing from there. There are probably fusible links (I haven't worked with them on these vehicles, just my old truck). They aren't supposed to damage other wires, but who knows. I think I'm back to doing this, again. This is the way I've systematically worked on it this go around. It does have two fusible links, one to the engine components and one going to the power distribution block (fuse block) under the hood.
Key out of the ignition, alternator disconnected. Too many times to count. I haven't put the key in the ignition since I started tearing everything apart on Sunday.
Do you have a solenoid under the hood? Yes, there are several, but I've pulled the power to the entire engine group from the main passenger fender power one solenoid. This eliminated all draw. Effectively just disconnecting the battery really.
Be sure to check each major solenoid (starter, glow plug) and direct + to - device (such as alternator, fuse panels, etc) to make SURE they are wired correctly. This is new information to me. I didn't know you could have the power on them backwards. I've still had them all disconnected with no luck of change though. The alternator on this truck only has the one power wire and the small connector, both disconnected. How would I know if they were wired backwards. It's not like they are marked. I've looked for that before.
A solenoid miswired (reversed power connectors, always hot COM, etc) will cause a drain. A miswired alternator can cause a drain. See last answer.
Disconnect your ignition. You say you disconnected the GEM. Yup, done that too.
Disconnect your IDM. It can get water in it and short out. I'm going to have to look up where the IDM is located. I seem to remember years ago when combating this issue people telling me it was on the fender, but I don't have anything there. A picture would really help!
Also ask this: What have you replaced or worked on lately when this problem started? Surely you didn't have a drain this whole time? This draw was there since I bought the truck. The PO hid the problems from me, that's why I can't sell it and have a good conscience about it. Basically I've replaced the positive battery cable, rebuild injectors, replaced the glow plug solenoid and transmission, and a couple other things since getting the truck. Nothing electrical has been added though. I also have worked on or driven the truck in almost four years other than a new battery, alternator and positive battery cable. Oh yeah and the starter solenoid (located on the starter). I know the draw was there before everything I replace anything though.
Other than these things, you likely have a damaged harness somewhere. A wire rubbed, shorted, got hot, something and the insulation is damaged and rubbing ground or touching another wire. This is where I'm really focusing my attention now. I've eliminated most things I can in the trucks systems. Just really perplexed since I can't find it through the normal testing procedures. The problem is the truck really is in great shape. I've traced all the harnesses and even had my wife watching the meter while shaking them. No changes.
Get some DeOxit to clean your connectors (if you're taking them apart to troubleshoot, may as well take a few moments to fix them up!). I'll have to look into this stuff, never heard of it. Growing up out west where everything is always dry we don't have the issue of corrosion. This truck is still really clean without any even after being in the mid-west for a couple years now.
Pull each main harness plug (such as below) and retest for drain. If you still have drain, leave the plug open. Take some pics as you go. They will help you remember where things go- and post them here so maybe someone will notice something amiss I did this yesterday, the drain was/is still there. I'm back to thinking it is in front of the firewall. The picture idea is a good one though.
If you weren't so far from me, I'd bring my meter and tools...
Oh- and pull the cruise control power from the brake master cylinder (I think that is where it is?) That part has a recall for shorting out and causing fires. Maybe it is shorting out? We'll grasp that can call it a straw, LOL.
I've had the recall done on that. They just put two fuses inline. I did check that new harness too though.
I do really appreciate the thought and time you put into this post. I'll keep at it, even if it's just a little at a time.
I do wish you lived closer. I need another set of eyes and someone that isn't emotionally invested in the truck to look at it. It's just got me seeing red.
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