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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it full and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Just seeing if anyone has run into a similar situation. Otherwise we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
1.5 amps is of course, a lot of current. Usually vehicle manufacturers specify a limit of 50 milliamps or so, or 0.05 amps. Maybe a little bit higher because of all the gee-gaws these days, but not much. Say 70 milliamps or something like that.
All those modules and computers and things can draw a lot of juice though, for a half hour or so, till they go to sleep. Hook your meter up and wait say, an hour before passing judgment. Don't open up a door or play the radio or anything or the clock starts over.
Auto start type lead-acid batteries don't like being dead. Ever. Usually 3 or 4 times and it's done, time for a new one. Get it on a charger asap.
I may have just pulled the biggest idiot moment. The kids play in the truck at times and they have seemed to have turned the dome on. Funny tho as it wasn't lit even though switched on??
I may have just pulled the biggest idiot moment. The kids play in the truck at times and they have seemed to have turned the dome on. Funny tho as it wasn't lit even though switched on??
Still doesn't explain the other times tho.
Maybe the kids didn't turn it on, but thst it had been on prior. That might explain why the battery may have dine it previously.
Use a test light (incandescent type, not l.e.d.) in line instead of the meter, so it's lit up and you can see it. Start pulling fuses one by one until the light goes out. That way you can at least figure out what circuit the problem is in. I had a bad trailer brake controller in an old Chevy (🙀 a few years ago, that would kill my battery in a day and a half. (If there's been any electrical add ons, I'd be looking at those first.) That's how I figured it out anyways. Hope it helps!
Use a test light (incandescent type, not l.e.d.) in line instead of the meter, so it's lit up and you can see it. Start pulling fuses one by one until the light goes out. That way you can at least figure out what circuit the problem is in. I had a bad trailer brake controller in an old Chevy (🙀 a few years ago, that would kill my battery in a day and a half. (If there's been any electrical add ons, I'd be looking at those first.) That's how I figured it out anyways. Hope it helps!
Frank
This was the plan with the meter. I'll see if the battery drains in the next few days.
My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it full and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Just seeing if anyone has run into a similar situation. Otherwise we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
how long did you have the meter on for?? Reason i ask is because when the batteries first connected the vehicle does have a significant draw for about 10 seconds before it drops to almost nothing. Theres something electrical that runs during that initial period before it kicks off..
With a test light you can watch it there too.. will be bright right after making the circuit complete then dims to almost barely being lit.
I'll be honest I haven't dug into this as time has not been on my side lately. The truck has fired up each day to move into the street for the remodeling being done on my house with no ill effects. So until this work is done at my house I probably won't be digging in. I can't imagine a start and run for about 1:00min helps anything so hopefully something was just off. I will be looking into it more tho.
how long did you have the meter on for?? Reason i ask is because when the batteries first connected the vehicle does have a significant draw for about 10 seconds before it drops to almost nothing. Theres something electrical that runs during that initial period before it kicks off..
With a test light you can watch it there too.. will be bright right after making the circuit complete then dims to almost barely being lit.
Noted. Thanks. When I did test the truck had been off for a while. But the door was open to remove fuses, the under hood lamp will turn on, etc.... So those things are likely affecting the readings.