FACE PLANT......AE LOG......
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,343
Likes: 589
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Lol, I looked at that blue line and then the legends and thought it was a > sign. Derped out on that one, I guess. Yeah, that pretty much confirms low pressure, but it's a process of elimination to isolate the cause. If you can deadhead the pump with the icp sensor or a mechanical gauge in the end of one of the hydraulic lines it would tell you if the pump is toast.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Austin, MN
got it.....I don't have enough equipment for all that...........lol.................but I will look around......most likely I am gonna throw money at it.......
The HPOP that is on my truck was bought used off of ebay, and I have no idea how many rounds are on it.......I am guessing enough to make it not want to work any longer......not sure what else it would be here..........the truck was running great before it just up and died....................
The HPOP that is on my truck was bought used off of ebay, and I have no idea how many rounds are on it.......I am guessing enough to make it not want to work any longer......not sure what else it would be here..........the truck was running great before it just up and died....................
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
With respect - your truck may be suffering from "Walmartosis". This is an affliction that stems from trying to maintain a Ford Superduty with a Powerstroke (manly sounding, eh?) by replacing OEM with the lowest-priced components available. Sending a Quarter Caliber out to do a Buck$Zooka's job has yielded results like this many times on the forum.
If this were me (but I'm weird), I'd put an OEM ICP in there, verify the heads hold oil pressure (Cody test), and put a Terminator T500 in there if there are no internal oil leaks. The T500 is very reasonably priced, delivers excellent performance and reliability, and is backed by a reputable vendor.
If the heads leak - OEM O-rings may be your salvation.
If this were me (but I'm weird), I'd put an OEM ICP in there, verify the heads hold oil pressure (Cody test), and put a Terminator T500 in there if there are no internal oil leaks. The T500 is very reasonably priced, delivers excellent performance and reliability, and is backed by a reputable vendor.
If the heads leak - OEM O-rings may be your salvation.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Austin, MN
I will admit, it took me a while to come to grips with it, but this I have learned over the couple of years of being on the site. I did not cheap out on injectors..........ordered OEM new ones through Rosewood.....
The T500 was, and is going to be my choice for the HPOP if that is what is def. wrong with it. Once it is back in my driveway, I plan to figure out a way of deadheading the pump and see what I get......I have watched a few vids on youtube that I think I can trust for doing this...Dieseltech Ron has one on dead heading the pump that seems legit......???
I am not sure if I did the "Cody" test correctly.....if not, i will attempt again. What I did was disconnect the HP lines at the pump, not the head....charged my air compressor and put 100psi on them with a rubber tipped blow gun.....no gurgling, no air loss.....Figured this would do the same doing it at the head. The blow gun tip also fit better in the hose as opposed to the head......
I will check back in when I get around to this.....probably early next week....I guess I will be driving the '67 for a few days......
The T500 was, and is going to be my choice for the HPOP if that is what is def. wrong with it. Once it is back in my driveway, I plan to figure out a way of deadheading the pump and see what I get......I have watched a few vids on youtube that I think I can trust for doing this...Dieseltech Ron has one on dead heading the pump that seems legit......???
I am not sure if I did the "Cody" test correctly.....if not, i will attempt again. What I did was disconnect the HP lines at the pump, not the head....charged my air compressor and put 100psi on them with a rubber tipped blow gun.....no gurgling, no air loss.....Figured this would do the same doing it at the head. The blow gun tip also fit better in the hose as opposed to the head......
I will check back in when I get around to this.....probably early next week....I guess I will be driving the '67 for a few days......
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,343
Likes: 589
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
If you have a hydraulics shop nearby, you can get everyrhing you need to deadhead the pump and use the ICP sensor to test the pressure. You'd need:
Two -5 ORB x -5 ORB couplings
One -5 ORB plug
Your ICP sensor.
Remove the STC fittings from both heads, leaving the lines attached.
Thread one of the couplings onto the fitting that was in the right head and cap it.
Thread the other coupling onto the fitting from the left head and install your ICP sensor into it.
Crank the engine while logging ICP pressure, ICP voltage, RPM and IPR duty cycle.
Two -5 ORB x -5 ORB couplings
One -5 ORB plug
Your ICP sensor.
Remove the STC fittings from both heads, leaving the lines attached.
Thread one of the couplings onto the fitting that was in the right head and cap it.
Thread the other coupling onto the fitting from the left head and install your ICP sensor into it.
Crank the engine while logging ICP pressure, ICP voltage, RPM and IPR duty cycle.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 14
If you have a hydraulics shop nearby, you can get everyrhing you need to deadhead the pump and use the ICP sensor to test the pressure. You'd need:
Two -5 ORB x -5 ORB couplings
One -5 ORB plug
Your ICP sensor.
Remove the STC fittings from both heads, leaving the lines attached.
Thread one of the couplings onto the fitting that was in the right head and cap it.
Thread the other coupling onto the fitting from the left head and install your ICP sensor into it.
Crank the engine while logging ICP pressure, ICP voltage, RPM and IPR duty cycle.
Two -5 ORB x -5 ORB couplings
One -5 ORB plug
Your ICP sensor.
Remove the STC fittings from both heads, leaving the lines attached.
Thread one of the couplings onto the fitting that was in the right head and cap it.
Thread the other coupling onto the fitting from the left head and install your ICP sensor into it.
Crank the engine while logging ICP pressure, ICP voltage, RPM and IPR duty cycle.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Austin, MN
I cannot find the fittings to deadhead the HPOP anywhere locally, and I kinda get the stink eye when asking for #5 fittings........."well that's not a common fitting".................. or "that's John Deere stuff, they put those on to screw us up".................
I've been to NAPA,,,,,,,,,,,,,,NO DICE
I've been to AUTO VALUE...............NO DICE
I've been to John Deere.................NO DICE
I've called a Hydraulic shop that say's IF WE DON'T HAVE IT, WE'LL FIND IT..................NO DICE!
Ugh................I thought this was gonna be an easy part to find......
I saw DIESELTECH RON on Youtube has a tool...........anyone know where to get one of those?
I've been to NAPA,,,,,,,,,,,,,,NO DICE
I've been to AUTO VALUE...............NO DICE
I've been to John Deere.................NO DICE
I've called a Hydraulic shop that say's IF WE DON'T HAVE IT, WE'LL FIND IT..................NO DICE!
Ugh................I thought this was gonna be an easy part to find......
I saw DIESELTECH RON on Youtube has a tool...........anyone know where to get one of those?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,343
Likes: 589
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
I just called the shop I got some from in the past, and they no longer have them either. I did manage to make a coupler out of a high pressure pipe coupling, but I don't remember what size I bought. I did have to run a tap into it to change the tapered pipe threads to straight threads, though. I saw the thing the other day while I was looking for something; I'll see if I can get my hands on it tomorrow and figure out what exactly I used.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Austin, MN
Here is what I did.....I found another one of those great youtube vids on the HPOP testing.....
Ordered a #6 ORB x 1/4 JIC times 2 and a 1/4 JIC cap. gonna test it mechanically right at the pump.....a little more time consuming, but it should fine.....I just had to have a hose made and purchase a gauge.....I'm also gonna put a #5 ORB x 1/4 fitting with a cap on each head, so I can test each side mechanically as well.......
If this is a problem, let me know....................
mike
Ordered a #6 ORB x 1/4 JIC times 2 and a 1/4 JIC cap. gonna test it mechanically right at the pump.....a little more time consuming, but it should fine.....I just had to have a hose made and purchase a gauge.....I'm also gonna put a #5 ORB x 1/4 fitting with a cap on each head, so I can test each side mechanically as well.......
If this is a problem, let me know....................
mike
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,343
Likes: 589
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
That should work just as well. The reason I usually pull the fittings from the heads (other than easier access) is the fittings on the pump should be installed with thread lock compound and it can be kind of a pain to clean the threads with the pump installed.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Austin, MN
Okay......
I had a shop hook me up with a 35" hose and the correct ORB fittings to make it happen....my 5000psi liquid filled gauge arrived today so I was at it right away.......
placed the fittings directly in the pump, capped side that provides the pressure to the drivers side head, hooked the hose with gauge to the other..........
Cranked and the gauge barley moved....i maybe got it to bounce to 100psi, but that was about it......so, here are my next two questions..
1. Should I have the ICP hooked up during this mechanical test, or does it not matter one way or the other? I had the ICP out for easier access to the pump.
2. What about air in the hose or the pump.....will this matter?
I had a shop hook me up with a 35" hose and the correct ORB fittings to make it happen....my 5000psi liquid filled gauge arrived today so I was at it right away.......
placed the fittings directly in the pump, capped side that provides the pressure to the drivers side head, hooked the hose with gauge to the other..........
Cranked and the gauge barley moved....i maybe got it to bounce to 100psi, but that was about it......so, here are my next two questions..
1. Should I have the ICP hooked up during this mechanical test, or does it not matter one way or the other? I had the ICP out for easier access to the pump.
2. What about air in the hose or the pump.....will this matter?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Okay......
I had a shop hook me up with a 35" hose and the correct ORB fittings to make it happen....my 5000psi liquid filled gauge arrived today so I was at it right away.......
placed the fittings directly in the pump, capped side that provides the pressure to the drivers side head, hooked the hose with gauge to the other..........
Cranked and the gauge barley moved....i maybe got it to bounce to 100psi, but that was about it......so, here are my next two questions..
1. Should I have the ICP hooked up during this mechanical test, or does it not matter one way or the other? I had the ICP out for easier access to the pump.
2. What about air in the hose or the pump.....will this matter?
I had a shop hook me up with a 35" hose and the correct ORB fittings to make it happen....my 5000psi liquid filled gauge arrived today so I was at it right away.......
placed the fittings directly in the pump, capped side that provides the pressure to the drivers side head, hooked the hose with gauge to the other..........
Cranked and the gauge barley moved....i maybe got it to bounce to 100psi, but that was about it......so, here are my next two questions..
1. Should I have the ICP hooked up during this mechanical test, or does it not matter one way or the other? I had the ICP out for easier access to the pump.
2. What about air in the hose or the pump.....will this matter?
Not sure if it's exactly the same, but definitely worth considering
