Overheating..... Tried everything
It all started memorial day with it getting hot, but not overheating hitting a brutal hill with the trailer, did water pump and fan clutch cause it seemed fan clutch was weak even when fully hot spun fairly easy but you know how hard it is to tell. Could the radiator that went in a few months before somehow not be made correctly? Bad water pump or clutch that got replaced by a new bad one?
I guess I'll get it home and strip it down in the garage, question is head gaskets only or do the whole thing....
With the lack of coolant lost I wouldn't worry too much about damage to the lower end of the motor from coolant getting in the oil. How far you want to take it will depend on how many miles and the health of the motor...
You have really stumped me on this one, i've worked on many head gasket and cracked head problems on other engines and have never seen the exact problems you're experiencing?
Figured that was the issue seen it happen before on many cars slight head gasket damage from years of service, glad you taking on this job and saving some money
Bottom end looks perfect. Very little carbon, still crosshatched, no lip on bore, and definitely some work out gaskets along the way on intake and heads. A few exhaust studs broke off, but no leaks there.
Here is some pictures.
The boiling point for 50-50 coolant mix is around 250° at 12 psi, if the head temps are hitting anywhere near 280° it should be pushing coolant out.
If it was actually burning coolant there is usually a greenish powdery colored coating on the cylinders and head that is leaking and i'm still a little confused how it could be leaking\burning coolant and the level not drop in the reservoir?
Does the dash temp gauge indicate it's overheating as well as whatever scanner you're using????
Just some of my thoughts while trying to figure this one out with the information I have.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The boiling point for 50-50 coolant mix is around 250° at 12 psi, if the head temps are hitting anywhere near 280° it should be pushing coolant out.
If it was actually burning coolant there is usually a greenish powdery colored coating on the cylinders and head that is leaking and i'm still a little confused how it could be leaking\burning coolant and the level not drop in the reservoir?
Does the dash temp gauge indicate it's overheating as well as whatever scanner you're using????
Just some of my thoughts while trying to figure this one out with the information I have.
Has not puked coolant out even at the worst. But there isn't a way to see the gasses 'boiling' it since the overflow comes into the degas bottle in the air chamber.
Yes dash guage goes stupid and it threw up warning lights when it hit 245/290 with the trailer. Testing with the trailer after head gaskets got me 244 on the coolant on flat freeway at 55mph when I turned around. Heads were about 270 already. I had not gone as far as before before turning around. Dash gauge did not go as high into the red but I don't really rely on it as its not that helpful clearly as the coolant was as hot but gauge didn't even get more than 1/4" above normal.
It does lose coolant from the reservoir but not at an alarming rate just topping it off is needed. It's never alarmed me because I've had the system open so much with work being done that it's hard to know when its truly burped it all out.
When I fired it up Monday to take it back to the shop my Dad witnessed smoke out of the tail pipe which a friend told me he had seen previously this year but didn't think it was anything.... It's never cold enough in Phoenix to be anything but an issue if its smoking on startup
Has not puked coolant out even at the worst. But there isn't a way to see the gasses 'boiling' it since the overflow comes into the degas bottle in the air chamber.
Yes dash guage goes stupid and it threw up warning lights when it hit 245/290 with the trailer. Testing with the trailer after head gaskets got me 244 on the coolant on flat freeway at 55mph when I turned around. Heads were about 270 already. I had not gone as far as before before turning around. Dash gauge did not go as high into the red but I don't really rely on it as its not that helpful clearly as the coolant was as hot but gauge didn't even get more than 1/4" above normal.
It does lose coolant from the reservoir but not at an alarming rate just topping it off is needed. It's never alarmed me because I've had the system open so much with work being done that it's hard to know when its truly burped it all out.
When I fired it up Monday to take it back to the shop my Dad witnessed smoke out of the tail pipe which a friend told me he had seen previously this year but didn't think it was anything.... It's never cold enough in Phoenix to be anything but an issue if its smoking on startup
At this point I am not inclined to think that any of the parts you replaced and many you rechecked are the culprit. I do believe the engine is getting hot but just not hot enough to boil the coolant completely. The only things I can think of at this point are.
-Did beheads get checked for cracks?
-does your torque scanner and read transmission temperatures? (totally out there guess but have heard of superhot transmission oil overheating and engine before)
-A blocked/restricted coolant passage in the engine block
And one more question, what color was the smoke at start up? White blue or gray? And how much and how long?
As far as bleeding the system I don't think anything special was done?







