Foaming White Coolant
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Foaming White Coolant
Here's The story, For the past few days my truck (89 f150 302) Has not been warming up to around 180-200 degrees like usual, has not pumped out much heat, and has been getting even worse mileage. These sounded like the classic symptoms of a thermostat stuck open, so today I picked up a new thermostat and put it in. I topped off the coolant, checked for leaks and went for a drive. The coolant never got above 150 degrees in 15 minutes of driving. I decided to check the coolant level and when I took the cap off, the coolant was foamy and white like when you mix baking soda and vinegar! I really don't think oil could have gotten into the coolant this quickly and that it may be some sort of chemical reaction between two brands of coolant.
Any suggestions why this happened?
Thanks
Any suggestions why this happened?
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Perhaps the thermostat is faulty/installed incorrectly and allowing the coolant seep through a small crack making it froth.
Drain that coolant right away and try not to run the engine very much at all. Those air bubbles can pit the water jackets in your block and cause some BIG problems for you
Drain that coolant right away and try not to run the engine very much at all. Those air bubbles can pit the water jackets in your block and cause some BIG problems for you
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
From what you describe it sounds like oil in the water, white foam floating is a sign of it.
Leaking/blown head gasket pushing oil into the water jacket, I'd take a real good look at it. Water in the oil could and usually does mean water in the oil too. Oil will float on it so ya need to look at the stick right after turning it off. Oil will feel real thin, may even see very small white or brown water droplets not mixed with the oil on the stick and the oil will not feel "slippery" between the fingers.
Look like you have any steam coming out of the tail pipe? white, dissipates really quick.
Could be a very small amount and barely noticeable.
A compression test showing significant loss of compression in two cylinders that are adjacent to each other while the remaining cylinders are "normal" is a sign of a blown head gasket.
Leaking/blown head gasket pushing oil into the water jacket, I'd take a real good look at it. Water in the oil could and usually does mean water in the oil too. Oil will float on it so ya need to look at the stick right after turning it off. Oil will feel real thin, may even see very small white or brown water droplets not mixed with the oil on the stick and the oil will not feel "slippery" between the fingers.
Look like you have any steam coming out of the tail pipe? white, dissipates really quick.
Could be a very small amount and barely noticeable.
A compression test showing significant loss of compression in two cylinders that are adjacent to each other while the remaining cylinders are "normal" is a sign of a blown head gasket.
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There is no coolant in the oil that I can see. It is not burning any coolant that I can see or smell either. I do have a set of rebuilt and ported E7 heads that should be on later this week so the head gaskets will be replaced anyway. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks
Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Originally Posted by 302 F-150
There is no coolant in the oil that I can see. It is not burning any coolant that I can see or smell either. I do have a set of rebuilt and ported E7 heads that should be on later this week so the head gaskets will be replaced anyway. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks
Thanks
If it is in the oil, the under side of the oil cap should also show some evidence of water on it too, from a light thin watery covering to a thick foamy white covering both mixed with oil depending on the amount of water present. The old metal oil caps would even start to rust.
The heat burns off the water to vapor and it rises and condenses on the bottom of the much cooler oil cap.
Hopefully you don’t have a problem but just to be sure when you do swap heads take a real good look at the old gaskets. You may find a little evidence of leakage.
Finding that would to a extent set my mind a little to ease knowing a fresh set of heads and or head gaskets are going on it. Feeling safe in the knowledge that was it and now the problem will now be gone.
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Those air bubbles can pit the water jackets in your block and cause some BIG problems for you.
Care to elaborate on this statement?
Sounds very peculiar to me.
Frank
Care to elaborate on this statement?
Sounds very peculiar to me.
Frank
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Posting Guru
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From: Nebraska
If you have water in the oil, let it sit overnight and pull the drain plug just enough to get a sample. If the coolant has sepatated from the oil it will be at the bottom of the pan. If it's mixed with oil your oil will be a light brown milky color.
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Well, I just flushed the cooling system and put a new thermostat in. I took it for a good long drive and the coolant seems fine! The level is good and it looks like it is supposed to. Must have just been the cheap off brand coolant. The only problem is that after about an hour of driving, The temp gauge stayed at or below 125 degrees. Is this something to be concerned about?
Elder User
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If the temp gauge is accurate, it is something to be concerned about.
Truck needs to get up to temp for the computer to properly regulate the air/ gas ratio, and to burn off moisture in the oil.
Are you sure it is full of coolant, and the gauge is working ok?
Your truck came with a 192 deg thermostate, and it is considered by many to be the proper temp to use.
I know you said you just changed the thermostate, but perhaps it is not working properly. I have gotten in the habit of testing them before I instal a new one. A pan of water, candy thermometer, put the new thermostate in the pan and heat the water. Watch to see what temp the thermostate opens. Just making sure it is ok to avoid having to tear it apart in a few days.
You can use the same candy thermometer to check water temp in your radiator. Just leave the cap off and let it idle until it opens the thermostate and starts circulating the water. When it first starts, you will probably see coolant temps around 160-170 in the top of the radiator. Eventually it will get up around 180ish.
good luck Frank
Truck needs to get up to temp for the computer to properly regulate the air/ gas ratio, and to burn off moisture in the oil.
Are you sure it is full of coolant, and the gauge is working ok?
Your truck came with a 192 deg thermostate, and it is considered by many to be the proper temp to use.
I know you said you just changed the thermostate, but perhaps it is not working properly. I have gotten in the habit of testing them before I instal a new one. A pan of water, candy thermometer, put the new thermostate in the pan and heat the water. Watch to see what temp the thermostate opens. Just making sure it is ok to avoid having to tear it apart in a few days.
You can use the same candy thermometer to check water temp in your radiator. Just leave the cap off and let it idle until it opens the thermostate and starts circulating the water. When it first starts, you will probably see coolant temps around 160-170 in the top of the radiator. Eventually it will get up around 180ish.
good luck Frank
