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Prodigy P2 Trailer brake controller install

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Old Jul 9, 2015 | 04:19 AM
  #16  
awq134's Avatar
awq134
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Ontario, OH
Originally Posted by meborder
hummm .... that is odd.

if my friend drives his 2011 to work tomorrow, i might see if i can peek at his wiring and see what the camper shop did to get his brake controller hooked up.

my understanding was that they used the factory connector under the dash since they only ran one (fused) power wire from the battery. my assumption was that was for the trailer charge wire, but that may not be the case.

if i can seek a peek at his i will probably be able to tell you more.

very hard to believe that they would put the pin in for the trailer charge wire but not the brake controller wire, as that is definitely not the norm for ford. my expedition was exactly the opposite. i didn't have to do anything other than install the brake controller and hook up the trailer brake wire which was taped to the 4-flat connector at the rear.
I would have thought it was the opposite in that they would install the wiring for the controller and not the charge wire. thanks for all of the help so far
Originally Posted by OrangeHill
I just set up my F150 for towing with a Prodigy P3 controller. My truck had the 4 pin plug on the back so I bought the factory wiring harness to install a 7 blade connector. I got the 7 wire harness from my local Ford dealer part# BL3Z13A576B discounted to $69.97 (MSRP $85.33) because they said it was all I needed and it wasn't because you still need the 7 blade socket which is $65 from Ford. I bought a Hopkins #40955 OEM 7 blade socket instead from Tractor Supply for $29. I bought the Tekonsha 4-pin brake controller adapter #3036 from Amazon Prime for $13.86. There was a plastic connector box on the factory wiring under the dash that I had to remove before I could plug in the Prodigy wiring adapter.

The turn signals and brake lights work, but the running lights and breakaway battery charger don't work so I need to look at the fuses and relays. They work with my Tundra so I know it is not the trailer. #9 and #21 are there so I need to check to see if one is blown. I have not pulled it yet so I also need to check that the brakes are working properly.

Do yourself a favor and blow off the top of the frame before you disconnect the wiring harness to save yourself from a face and eyes full of dirt like I got. It was easier to change the harness and mount the hitch receiver when I lowered the spare tire.
I haven't pulled down the spare tire yet, but was going to whenever I need to actually get up there.
does your # 17 30 amp fuse position under the hood have both blades in the socket or just one?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2015 | 01:41 PM
  #17  
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awq134
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From: Ontario, OH
Turns out that I was mistaken about not being able to install the 30 amp fuse under the hood. I was looking at the wrong slot. The fuse I needed was already installed so I shot the wires from the connector under the dash and there is constant power to it as well as to the back of the truck(where the 4 pin connects to the truck wire harness). Looks like I will be ordering the harness adapter for my brake controller as well as the 7 pin connector for the back.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 08:31 PM
  #18  
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Mike Vasilove
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Joined: Jan 2014
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Orange Hill: Have you been successful? My 07 e150 has the same issue. 4 pin at the rear, connector at the driver kick panel but nothing else. No factory tow pack. Ran separate blue wire for brakes have all lights connected but having issues with the red wire out of the controller. Tekonsha Primus IQ. Directions are contradictory and telling me to avoid the red wire w/green stripe on the stop light switch. When the brake peddle is depressed this wire grounds and can destroy the controller. The lite green wire appears to mirror that practice so I am avoiding it as well. Everything is hooked up except the "red" wire. AHHHH! Suggestions?
 
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