Body mount questions
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
But thanks for the heads up. I was not thinking about the doors when I suggested lifting the corner that's on the frame.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
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From: Crossville, Tn
As I was trying to go to sleep last night (never an easy task) I was thinking that I could probably just remove the left side arm since the cab is already resting on the frame. That way I can see if the bushings are shot or the arm is bent/worn oblong or whatever.
Does anyone see a problem with that thinking?
Does anyone see a problem with that thinking?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
Joe, the arm is designed to move, giving the cab some flexibility. I can't remember exactly how did it, but I jacked up the rear of the cab slightly with a bottle jack, to take the pressure off the mount bolts. it also allowed me to adjust the cab to make reinstalling the arm and bolts easier to line up.
Thanks Joe!
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,580
Likes: 29
From: in a barn
If you are going to install new arms and the bushings you will want two jacks. One to support the cab at the rear corner, and another that will be used to jack up the arm into position. With the new rubber in there you will not be able to push the arm up by hand.
I found the easiest way to do the install was to completely assemble the frame side of the arm with the rubber bushing in place and then use a jack to lift up the cab end of the arm. Using the two jacks will allow you do lift the arm and adjust cab height with the 2nd jack to get the bolt lined up.
I found the easiest way to do the install was to completely assemble the frame side of the arm with the rubber bushing in place and then use a jack to lift up the cab end of the arm. Using the two jacks will allow you do lift the arm and adjust cab height with the 2nd jack to get the bolt lined up.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
If you are going to install new arms and the bushings you will want two jacks. One to support the cab at the rear corner, and another that will be used to jack up the arm into position. With the new rubber in there you will not be able to push the arm up by hand.
I found the easiest way to do the install was to completely assemble the frame side of the arm with the rubber bushing in place and then use a jack to lift up the cab end of the arm. Using the two jacks will allow you do lift the arm and adjust cab height with the 2nd jack to get the bolt lined up.
I found the easiest way to do the install was to completely assemble the frame side of the arm with the rubber bushing in place and then use a jack to lift up the cab end of the arm. Using the two jacks will allow you do lift the arm and adjust cab height with the 2nd jack to get the bolt lined up.
That's why I started this thread.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
If you are going to install new arms and the bushings you will want two jacks. One to support the cab at the rear corner, and another that will be used to jack up the arm into position. With the new rubber in there you will not be able to push the arm up by hand.
I found the easiest way to do the install was to completely assemble the frame side of the arm with the rubber bushing in place and then use a jack to lift up the cab end of the arm. Using the two jacks will allow you do lift the arm and adjust cab height with the 2nd jack to get the bolt lined up.
I found the easiest way to do the install was to completely assemble the frame side of the arm with the rubber bushing in place and then use a jack to lift up the cab end of the arm. Using the two jacks will allow you do lift the arm and adjust cab height with the 2nd jack to get the bolt lined up.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,030
Likes: 9,995
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Joe,
Get the beers in the ice box, I'm on my way over to help you out.....(I would if I were closer)
The mounts aren't too bad to replace. At least on your truck you don't have to deal with that extra steel section on the running boards of the 48-50 trucks.
I completely rebuilt mine for not too much money. Here's a link to what I did;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-rebuild.html
Bobby
Get the beers in the ice box, I'm on my way over to help you out.....(I would if I were closer)
The mounts aren't too bad to replace. At least on your truck you don't have to deal with that extra steel section on the running boards of the 48-50 trucks.
I completely rebuilt mine for not too much money. Here's a link to what I did;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-rebuild.html
Bobby
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Rockingham, VA
Except that I haven't ordered any parts yet...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
Joe,
Get the beers in the ice box, I'm on my way over to help you out.....(I would if I were closer)
The mounts aren't too bad to replace. At least on your truck you don't have to deal with that extra steel section on the running boards of the 48-50 trucks.
I completely rebuilt mine for not too much money. Here's a link to what I did;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-rebuild.html
Bobby
Get the beers in the ice box, I'm on my way over to help you out.....(I would if I were closer)
The mounts aren't too bad to replace. At least on your truck you don't have to deal with that extra steel section on the running boards of the 48-50 trucks.
I completely rebuilt mine for not too much money. Here's a link to what I did;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-rebuild.html
Bobby
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
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From: Rockingham, VA
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