Need help
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New User
Joined: May 2015
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From: Macedonia Ohio
Need help
Second post here, so I am still new to fords and the 352 motor so I would rate my mechanic stills at very beginner. And now I am in trouble lol I have a new holly 2300 carb on my '65 with a mr gasket in-line fuel pump. While driving it, the truck will seem like it is starving for gas out of no where, sputter and die. Even trying to give it gas it is sputtering and dying. I sit there for a minute and it fires right up. And then a little while later will do the same thing. While it is in the drive way it runs great and I can step on it and it's fine. I have no idea what I need to do, any advice/help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 166
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From: Dunnellon, Florida
It may be helpful for you to post a picture of the engine and fuel pump (?) Since these trucks came standard with their own mechanical fuel pumps I can't help but wonder why you'd need another. Surely you don't mean inline fuel filter? If that's the case remove it and throw it away- you don't need it since the fuel pump has it's own perfectly adequate canister filter.
Your problem is intriguing...
rx
Your problem is intriguing...
rx
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 298
Likes: 3
Sounds like vapor lock to me. I don't know if that's common on these trucks, but vws get this all the time. The fuel gets too hot in the line or pump and vaporizes. The pump can't pump the vapor, and the engine starves for fuel. When you wait a few minutes, it cools and turns back into liquid.
Next time it happens, try pouring some cold water on the fuel line, carb, and pump if you can do that safely. If that helps, you've found your culprit. You may have the pump too close to a hot part of the engine.
Next time it happens, try pouring some cold water on the fuel line, carb, and pump if you can do that safely. If that helps, you've found your culprit. You may have the pump too close to a hot part of the engine.
New User
Joined: Jun 2015
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are you running with a low profile air cleaner?some will be too close to the bowl vents on the carb and won't allow proper breathing, causing a problem like vapor lock.also make sure you have spark,maybe coil heating up.check float level adjustment?good luck
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New User
Joined: May 2015
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From: Macedonia Ohio
Thanks everyone. And no it is an in line fuel pump. There is a block off plate where the mechanical one use to be. However the pump is mounted under the truck pretty close to the exhaust so I will relocate that and see if that helps (however that's also where what appears to be the original fuel line is at) . Also the air filter on there is about an inch tall and 6in wide. So idk with that either.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 968
Likes: 5
From: Corbett, Oregon
Your truck should have a vented gas cap. Make sure it does. Using a non vented cap can cause the problems you describe.
A quick check is to remove the gas cap and see if the problem persists.
A quick check is to remove the gas cap and see if the problem persists.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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Also, two more cents...check the float adjustment in the carb. If the bowls aren't filling up quick enough, you'll run out of gas, especially upon demand. When idling, there is less fuel being used, so your fuel pump has a chance to "catch up" and fill the carb bowl.
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New User
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From: Macedonia Ohio
Ok so another stupid question, how do I check the float adjustment? And how do I go about adjusting it
Last edited by Tmurph223; Jun 20, 2015 at 12:04 PM. Reason: Adding more
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Corbett, Oregon
From my experience, if your truck seems to run OK while it is running, the problem probably isn't in the carburetor.
I'd look for, and check out, the simple things before I would tear into the carb or ignition. Make sure all the basics are where they should be and then dig deeper, if necessary.
As for float adjustment. You mentioned you had a Holley 2300 on the truck. Most 2300's have an externally adjustable float. Pretty sure there would be a youtube video showing the adjusting procedures. It would be the same as for a Holley 4150 / 4160 4 barrel carb. It is a lot less complicated that having to tear into the carb.
The video Inline66 posted is for a stock type 1 barrel Autolite carb like used on the 6 cylinder truck engines.
Good luck.
I'd look for, and check out, the simple things before I would tear into the carb or ignition. Make sure all the basics are where they should be and then dig deeper, if necessary.
As for float adjustment. You mentioned you had a Holley 2300 on the truck. Most 2300's have an externally adjustable float. Pretty sure there would be a youtube video showing the adjusting procedures. It would be the same as for a Holley 4150 / 4160 4 barrel carb. It is a lot less complicated that having to tear into the carb.
The video Inline66 posted is for a stock type 1 barrel Autolite carb like used on the 6 cylinder truck engines.
Good luck.
Last edited by Roger Carter; Jun 20, 2015 at 01:24 PM. Reason: correct spelling
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Thanks everyone. And no it is an in line fuel pump. There is a block off plate where the mechanical one use to be. However the pump is mounted under the truck pretty close to the exhaust so I will relocate that and see if that helps (however that's also where what appears to be the original fuel line is at) . Also the air filter on there is about an inch tall and 6in wide. So idk with that either.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
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Why an electric pump when a mechanical pump is available? Is it wired through an impact switch? Without a safety switch on a electric pump there could be a problem in a wreck. Imagine a compromised engine compartment after a collision with gasoline spraying all over hot manifolds, battery and broken or shorted wires......Not Good. At least run it through a safety switch.
Personally I would take that stuff off and use the proper mechanical pump with new hard lines except where specs call for rubber lines. Also I would make sure the tank is clean. If the tank is dirty all other fuel system work is for naught.
Personally I would take that stuff off and use the proper mechanical pump with new hard lines except where specs call for rubber lines. Also I would make sure the tank is clean. If the tank is dirty all other fuel system work is for naught.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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If the Holley 2300 allows you to sight the fuel level through an external sight plug in the bowl, it's worth a peek. Check, If you're not sure how to do this. Any of the above suggestions are plausible but I think a plugged filter, line, etc would be more progressive in nature rather than intermittent. I did have a plugged filter, though, that wouldn't fill the bowl and the carb would run out of gas on demand, such as uphill. It's easy enough to disconnect the fuel line, crank it over into a can and see how the flow is...just start at the carb and work your way back to find the source of fuel starvation. Doesn't sound like vapor lock...that would make your engine hard to restart.
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