Deadhorse....blend door?
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New User
Joined: Jun 2015
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Deadhorse....blend door?
Hi all new poster here.
I've read tons of threads on the blend door and actuator.
My pickup is an 01 F150 280,000 miles.
The blend door and actuator appears to have quit working, so after reading many threads about said dead horse.
I tore the whole freakin dash out...here lies my issue....blend door and actuator appear to be functional ie no broken parts. I ordered a new actuator since it's all tore apart.
I read on a thread after tear down to check across pins 2 and 3 of the connector to check ohms on temp control...my connector doesn't have a wire in pin 2 location.
Help any suggestions?
I've read tons of threads on the blend door and actuator.
My pickup is an 01 F150 280,000 miles.
The blend door and actuator appears to have quit working, so after reading many threads about said dead horse.
I tore the whole freakin dash out...here lies my issue....blend door and actuator appear to be functional ie no broken parts. I ordered a new actuator since it's all tore apart.
I read on a thread after tear down to check across pins 2 and 3 of the connector to check ohms on temp control...my connector doesn't have a wire in pin 2 location.
Help any suggestions?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
<scratches head> If you could hear the actuator running, why did you tear the dash out??
Pins 1, 2, & 5 of the BDA connector are unused. Who ever said to check pin 2 was mistaken. The pot goes between pins 4 and 6 with the wiper connected to pin 3.
Pins 1, 2, & 5 of the BDA connector are unused. Who ever said to check pin 2 was mistaken. The pot goes between pins 4 and 6 with the wiper connected to pin 3.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2015
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I was told that the blend door commonly breaks and to get to it you had to remove the dash.
Since my post I've put in a new actuator and started to reassemble the dash. While waiting for my part I took the potentiometer out and read it separately 245 on low side 4450 on high side ohms so I'm assuming that's the issue. Tore dash out and put in new actuator for nothing I guess :/
Since my post I've put in a new actuator and started to reassemble the dash. While waiting for my part I took the potentiometer out and read it separately 245 on low side 4450 on high side ohms so I'm assuming that's the issue. Tore dash out and put in new actuator for nothing I guess :/
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Yeah after all your work checking the temp control first is/was the best way to proceed.
From your readings and their varying from the recommended resistance readings that $20-30 control is your issue.
From your readings and their varying from the recommended resistance readings that $20-30 control is your issue.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
While waiting for my part I took the potentiometer out and read it separately 245 on low side 4450 on high side ohms so I'm assuming that's the issue.
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