Help me go over my To Do list
#1
06-17-2015, 11:41 AM
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Help me go over my To Do list
Here is some background to help see my direction. The truck runs like a top and is pretty much stock. Presently getting about 12.9 mpg, hand calculated, which I didn't think was bad. The truck is not daily driven and will mainly be my bad weather buggy, plus hauling lumber, mulch, mower, etc. It will not see a lot of heavy towing, but maybe occasional tractor, hay bales, or bobcat if needed.
Truck specs: early 2000 F250 CCLB 4x4, 7.3L, auto, 152k miles, 3" lift, 315/75/16 tires, 3.73 gears.
Here is my listed plan as funds and time become available:
I would appreciate any recommendations, suggestions, or alternatives. So what do you think?
Truck specs: early 2000 F250 CCLB 4x4, 7.3L, auto, 152k miles, 3" lift, 315/75/16 tires, 3.73 gears.
Here is my listed plan as funds and time become available:
- First thing on the list is adding gauges. Still haven't decided on either Autometer or Isspro. Factory matched on the pillar. I think I prefer the full sweep tranny temp, a 40 boost, 1600 EGT. Isspro is looking like me at the moment.
- Paint my oil and tranny pan with POR15. May keep going on to the frame and under the doors as time allows.
- New front swaybar bushings- Got them, just haven't had time to install.
- Next is the tranny. It has a fresh Jasper replacement about due it's first flush and filter @25k. Looking to make it last, so I am looking at adding a 6.0 cooler and maybe the BTS VB. What else can I do?
- Exhaust - Leaning towards 4" SS turbo back w/ muffler. MBRP, Magnaflow, or Diamond?
- Install a 6673 air filter and the Zoodad mod. This could also lead to CCV plumbed to air and checking for boost leaks.
- Get some tunes. It came with a BullyDog Triple Dog, but I don't think I like it. Most I know have Swamps but I may check others when time.
- Flush coolant - Still reading up on ELC, test strips, etc. Going to replace the upper radiator hose to outside the belt too.
- Flush the PS and brake with fresh fluids.
- Rebuild rear LS or replace with Truetrac.
- If I have to drop the tank for anything I will do the harpoon and hutch mods
I would appreciate any recommendations, suggestions, or alternatives. So what do you think?
#2
06-17-2015, 12:04 PM
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#3
06-17-2015, 11:10 PM
#4
06-18-2015, 03:54 AM
-Torque app and a dongle, cheap and easy if you have a smart phone.
-Check/clean Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor (EBP), tube and nipple on passenger side manifold of all soot - should help out your mileage
-Build a boost leak detector to see if there's any boost leaks
-Replace High Pressure Oil lines if there still the factory stainless steel braided
-Pull Injection Control Pressure sensor (ICP sensor) drivers side head - and see if there's any oil in the electrical side, if so replace with motorcraft OE sensor only.
-Move hutch and harpoon up the list
-Check/clean Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor (EBP), tube and nipple on passenger side manifold of all soot - should help out your mileage
-Build a boost leak detector to see if there's any boost leaks
-Replace High Pressure Oil lines if there still the factory stainless steel braided
-Pull Injection Control Pressure sensor (ICP sensor) drivers side head - and see if there's any oil in the electrical side, if so replace with motorcraft OE sensor only.
-Move hutch and harpoon up the list
#5
06-18-2015, 01:04 PM
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Guess I need to revisit my plans on dropping my tank to straighten out some future issues before they happen. It figures I just filled it up too. Well I will be able to check my rear brake lines and probably get some paint on everything hidden behind the tank. I have made notes to check on the oil lines and ICP.
I have already completed some small things over the past month or so. Got wire loom wraps on PS hoses, shifter tightened up, new drag link and stablizer. Dropping the spare and greased up the tire hoist. Spray cleaned my engine to look for active leaks. Found none but I did remove a sizable mouse habitat from the valley. Got the lie-o-meter pulled so I can fix it. Just cleaned the EBPS this past weekend. Don't know if the sensor is good, it was pretty caked, so I was going to see if my mileage changed.
Really just sizing up stuff I need to tackle with upcoming maintenance and gathering supplies.
I am waiting on the Torque app since I have a Windows phone. With the next Win OS update they are supposed to start allowing using Google Apps. Win app store does not have anything comparable to it. I have already planned on getting a dongle for each vehicle.
Thanks
I have already completed some small things over the past month or so. Got wire loom wraps on PS hoses, shifter tightened up, new drag link and stablizer. Dropping the spare and greased up the tire hoist. Spray cleaned my engine to look for active leaks. Found none but I did remove a sizable mouse habitat from the valley. Got the lie-o-meter pulled so I can fix it. Just cleaned the EBPS this past weekend. Don't know if the sensor is good, it was pretty caked, so I was going to see if my mileage changed.
Really just sizing up stuff I need to tackle with upcoming maintenance and gathering supplies.
I am waiting on the Torque app since I have a Windows phone. With the next Win OS update they are supposed to start allowing using Google Apps. Win app store does not have anything comparable to it. I have already planned on getting a dongle for each vehicle.
Thanks
#6
06-18-2015, 02:03 PM
heady1,
First off, here's a formal Welcome Aboard to the 99-03 diesel board of FTE!
Second, I must say, I'm mightily impressed with your To Do list, as you seem to have zeroed in on many, if not most, of the quirks and issues to be looked at or addressed in maintaining your vehicle for long service. I don't know how you gathered all your research, but you've very impressively condensed it in a nut shell.
Before you go too far along, I'd just like to remind you of one thing that you mentioned in the first line of your first post:
After 15 years experience reading this and similar forums, observing hundreds of folks pour thousands of dollars to resolve dozens of issues that never came up prior to them fixing what wasn't broken... I would urge you to remember that as it sits now, your truck runs like a top, and "is pretty much stock" with over 152,000 miles on it.
If the fuel pick up system was THAT much of a problem, your truck probably wouldn't be running like a top for 152K. So consider keeping this in mind as you sort through your priorities of what to do pre-emptively. There is some merit to the old adage if it works, don't fix it.
FWIW, I still have the stock Ford fuel sender, mixing chamber, screens, and foot apparatus in my tank. It has worked for 15 years. And it remains not because I'm too lazy to deal with it.. I've indeed dropped my tank, pulled the sender, and had a look at it's condition. I could very easily have Hutched it then, but I put it back in stock, as originally designed.
I'm not saying that's what you should do, or that anyone else's recommendations are inadvisable... I'm just saying I've never had a problem with my tank pickup in 15 years, and with 152K on your truck that "runs like a top", it doesn't really sound like you've had a problem with yours in 15 years either.
I'm subscribing to this thread, because I like your comprehensive scorched earth approach. You don't seem like the kind of person that leaves any stone unturned.
Toward that end, you might want to inspect the passenger side fuel rail on top of the motor, at the retention clip that holds it in place in parallel with the passenger side head, to look for wear abrasion that can lead to a terrific leak and a potential fire.
Also, check your power steering hoses behind the driver's side shock tower. You already said you addressed power steering hoses, but I wasn't sure if you meant where the rub on the CAC tube, the inside of the driver's frame rail, or behind the cast shock tower.
With a mirror, check to see if all four of your horizontally oriented, 12 point headed turbo bolts through the center housing rotating assembly are in place. You have an early 2000, as I do, built in 1999. That was a time when the turbo bolts were known to back out due to heat jacking from the rigid uppipes. The issue was fixed in production with a manufacturing process change that occured after our trucks were built. The issue was fixed in the field with a set of four replacement service bolts. Search my username, and my albums, using terms in this paragraph relevant to this issue, for pictures and more explanation.
Get gauges. That was number one on your list, and should remain number one. Torque App Windows whatever is not going to get a probe into your exhaust stream, so you are going to have to get a real guage for your EGT and your fuel supply pressure. Or something like an Infinity that can accept inputs from real guage sending units.
The day my Android phone can make and receive a phone call reliably, will be the day I consider using it do something else. That hasn't happened yet. Until then, there is no way I'd trust an Android phone to be linked to the brain of a 12,000 lb mass of steel hurtling 60 mph on the highway with me inside of it.
First off, here's a formal Welcome Aboard to the 99-03 diesel board of FTE!
Second, I must say, I'm mightily impressed with your To Do list, as you seem to have zeroed in on many, if not most, of the quirks and issues to be looked at or addressed in maintaining your vehicle for long service. I don't know how you gathered all your research, but you've very impressively condensed it in a nut shell.
Before you go too far along, I'd just like to remind you of one thing that you mentioned in the first line of your first post:
After 15 years experience reading this and similar forums, observing hundreds of folks pour thousands of dollars to resolve dozens of issues that never came up prior to them fixing what wasn't broken... I would urge you to remember that as it sits now, your truck runs like a top, and "is pretty much stock" with over 152,000 miles on it.
If the fuel pick up system was THAT much of a problem, your truck probably wouldn't be running like a top for 152K. So consider keeping this in mind as you sort through your priorities of what to do pre-emptively. There is some merit to the old adage if it works, don't fix it.
FWIW, I still have the stock Ford fuel sender, mixing chamber, screens, and foot apparatus in my tank. It has worked for 15 years. And it remains not because I'm too lazy to deal with it.. I've indeed dropped my tank, pulled the sender, and had a look at it's condition. I could very easily have Hutched it then, but I put it back in stock, as originally designed.
I'm not saying that's what you should do, or that anyone else's recommendations are inadvisable... I'm just saying I've never had a problem with my tank pickup in 15 years, and with 152K on your truck that "runs like a top", it doesn't really sound like you've had a problem with yours in 15 years either.
I'm subscribing to this thread, because I like your comprehensive scorched earth approach. You don't seem like the kind of person that leaves any stone unturned.
Toward that end, you might want to inspect the passenger side fuel rail on top of the motor, at the retention clip that holds it in place in parallel with the passenger side head, to look for wear abrasion that can lead to a terrific leak and a potential fire.
Also, check your power steering hoses behind the driver's side shock tower. You already said you addressed power steering hoses, but I wasn't sure if you meant where the rub on the CAC tube, the inside of the driver's frame rail, or behind the cast shock tower.
With a mirror, check to see if all four of your horizontally oriented, 12 point headed turbo bolts through the center housing rotating assembly are in place. You have an early 2000, as I do, built in 1999. That was a time when the turbo bolts were known to back out due to heat jacking from the rigid uppipes. The issue was fixed in production with a manufacturing process change that occured after our trucks were built. The issue was fixed in the field with a set of four replacement service bolts. Search my username, and my albums, using terms in this paragraph relevant to this issue, for pictures and more explanation.
Get gauges. That was number one on your list, and should remain number one. Torque App Windows whatever is not going to get a probe into your exhaust stream, so you are going to have to get a real guage for your EGT and your fuel supply pressure. Or something like an Infinity that can accept inputs from real guage sending units.
The day my Android phone can make and receive a phone call reliably, will be the day I consider using it do something else. That hasn't happened yet. Until then, there is no way I'd trust an Android phone to be linked to the brain of a 12,000 lb mass of steel hurtling 60 mph on the highway with me inside of it.
#7
06-18-2015, 03:50 PM
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First off, here's a formal Welcome Aboard to the 99-03 diesel board of FTE!
Second, I must say, I'm mightily impressed with your To Do list, as you seem to have zeroed in on many, if not most, of the quirks and issues to be looked at or addressed in maintaining your vehicle for long service. I don't know how you gathered all your research, but you've very impressively condensed it in a nut shell.
Thank you for the kind words, but I really can not take credit for it. Everything I have listed was derived from me lurking on this site. I have been reading, bookmarking, and revisiting again. I take better notes now than I ever did in school. It pretty much formed itself from the wealth of knowledge found on here.
Before you go too far along, I'd just like to remind you of one thing that you mentioned in the first line of your first post:
After 15 years experience reading this and similar forums, observing hundreds of folks pour thousands of dollars to resolve dozens of issues that never came up prior to them fixing what wasn't broken... I would urge you to remember that as it sits now, your truck runs like a top, and "is pretty much stock" with over 152,000 miles on it.
If the fuel pick up system was THAT much of a problem, your truck probably wouldn't be running like a top for 152K. So consider keeping this in mind as you sort through your priorities of what to do pre-emptively. There is some merit to the old adage if it works, don't fix it.
FWIW, I still have the stock Ford fuel sender, mixing chamber, screens, and foot apparatus in my tank. It has worked for 15 years. And it remains not because I'm too lazy to deal with it.. I've indeed dropped my tank, pulled the sender, and had a look at it's condition. I could very easily have Hutched it then, but I put it back in stock, as originally designed.
I'm not saying that's what you should do, or that anyone else's recommendations are inadvisable... I'm just saying I've never had a problem with my tank pickup in 15 years, and with 152K on your truck that "runs like a top", it doesn't really sound like you've had a problem with yours in 15 years either.
I'm subscribing to this thread, because I like your comprehensive scorched earth approach. You don't seem like the kind of person that leaves any stone unturned.
I am reconsidering the tank mods in priority. My funds and time will dictate their completion as much as ranking, getting on the list was step 1. With that said, I know I want the gauges first to give me some real feedback on the truck. It does run good but visual verification can help me keep it that way.
Toward that end, you might want to inspect the passenger side fuel rail on top of the motor, at the retention clip that holds it in place in parallel with the passenger side head, to look for wear abrasion that can lead to a terrific leak and a potential fire.
That is on another little list I have on things to check. I actually read up on it last night in the failure prevention thread. I even pulled an old bike inner tube out to cut for additional padding in the bracket and some more loom for the 42 pin connector and water pump hose. That is good stuff and the little golden nuggets that add to my lists. It is greatly appreciated.
Also, check your power steering hoses behind the driver's side shock tower. You already said you addressed power steering hoses, but I wasn't sure if you meant where the rub on the CAC tube, the inside of the driver's frame rail, or behind the cast shock tower.
The shock tower is where I was concerned about contact but I will look more closely. I may add some more.
With a mirror, check to see if all four of your horizontally oriented, 12 point headed turbo bolts through the center housing rotating assembly are in place. You have an early 2000, as I do, built in 1999. That was a time when the turbo bolts were known to back out due to heat jacking from the rigid uppipes. The issue was fixed in production with a manufacturing process change that occured after our trucks were built. The issue was fixed in the field with a set of four replacement service bolts. Search my username, and my albums, using terms in this paragraph relevant to this issue, for pictures and more explanation.
Will do. That is something I have not run upon yet.
Get gauges. That was number one on your list, and should remain number one. Torque App Windows whatever is not going to get a probe into your exhaust stream, so you are going to have to get a real guage for your EGT and your fuel supply pressure. Or something like an Infinity that can accept inputs from real guage sending units.
The day my Android phone can make and receive a phone call reliably, will be the day I consider using it do something else. That hasn't happened yet. Until then, there is no way I'd trust an Android phone to be linked to the brain of a 12,000 lb mass of steel hurtling 60 mph on the highway with me inside of it.
I see the Torque app as supplementary and additional information. If I can take advantage of it with more feedback I will. I would not rely on it being the primary source though. I consider it "nice to have" and not a need. It would probably be more handy in our CRD and TDI.
Thanks again for your valuable input.
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#8
06-19-2015, 02:40 PM
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Just my humble opinion. Good luck!
#9
06-19-2015, 10:34 PM
Good list.
There is no performance gain from a 4" exhaust over just straight-piping the stock exhaust (muffler delete). The 4" just makes more noise and unless you get a good SS system - will never last as long as the stock (SS) system.
I have done the in-tank mods to dozens of trucks and seldom open one up that doesn't need it. This is more commonly a problem in trucks that are driven less and particularly if they sit with less than a FULL tank of fuel. This mod costs less than a family dinner and McD's and has no adverse side effects. Just use a WIX 33972 (50 micron strainer) before the pump - and not a 'primary-type' filter recommended in several write-ups and overpriced kits.
The Torque App is simply the lowest cost way available to observe all of the parameters your truck's PCM monitors. This is an inexpensive TOOL and it can in no way harm your 12k lb mass of steel unless you are looking at it and drive into something... The next scantool I recommend is the ScanGauge II - also reads and clears DTC's and works in almost any OBD II vehicle. With one of these tools, you'll seldom need a pro-type scan tool or something like AE that many of us use.
I'm partial to the ISSPRO factory matched EV2's. I recommend Fuel Pressure, EGT, Boost (30psi is plenty for stock injectors) and trans temp.
I recommend a full brake inspection including checking and lubing the caliper slide pins with proper lube (I use dielectric grease). Also, adjust e-brake. My favorite brake pads are EBC Yellowstuff.
Your LS can be rebuilt and adjusted to be more aggressive. This will be much more economical than and aftermarket LSD.
6637 air filter is fine. The Zoodad is dumb... All this mod does is get your engine and filter dirty faster.
Check your up-pipes for leaks. Dorman bellowed up-pipes are well under $200 and have a lifetime warranty. This is a good investment because stock up-pipes WILL leak eventually.
There is no performance gain from a 4" exhaust over just straight-piping the stock exhaust (muffler delete). The 4" just makes more noise and unless you get a good SS system - will never last as long as the stock (SS) system.
I have done the in-tank mods to dozens of trucks and seldom open one up that doesn't need it. This is more commonly a problem in trucks that are driven less and particularly if they sit with less than a FULL tank of fuel. This mod costs less than a family dinner and McD's and has no adverse side effects. Just use a WIX 33972 (50 micron strainer) before the pump - and not a 'primary-type' filter recommended in several write-ups and overpriced kits.
The Torque App is simply the lowest cost way available to observe all of the parameters your truck's PCM monitors. This is an inexpensive TOOL and it can in no way harm your 12k lb mass of steel unless you are looking at it and drive into something... The next scantool I recommend is the ScanGauge II - also reads and clears DTC's and works in almost any OBD II vehicle. With one of these tools, you'll seldom need a pro-type scan tool or something like AE that many of us use.
I'm partial to the ISSPRO factory matched EV2's. I recommend Fuel Pressure, EGT, Boost (30psi is plenty for stock injectors) and trans temp.
I recommend a full brake inspection including checking and lubing the caliper slide pins with proper lube (I use dielectric grease). Also, adjust e-brake. My favorite brake pads are EBC Yellowstuff.
Your LS can be rebuilt and adjusted to be more aggressive. This will be much more economical than and aftermarket LSD.
6637 air filter is fine. The Zoodad is dumb... All this mod does is get your engine and filter dirty faster.
Check your up-pipes for leaks. Dorman bellowed up-pipes are well under $200 and have a lifetime warranty. This is a good investment because stock up-pipes WILL leak eventually.
#10
08-11-2015, 01:44 PM
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Quick update, I have been busy in my limited free time, but my list really has not gotten any shorter.
Looking at my options on the hutch mod. To save some time and looking for parts I may be getting the Strictly Diesel tank kit. Get all the stuff together for when I can drop the tank.
I am also reconsidering the 6637 after reading more up on the AIS system. It might be a better route to go for me. Still digging on it.
Also getting my fluids together to do the brake flush and moved it up on the list. My cousin just lost a line on his f350 and fortunately right after dropping off his trailer with a bobcat. Front line blew and pretty much drained his master cylinder before he got it stopped. I want to get new fluid in mine and maybe even some braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
- Got a new ICP sensor installed.
- My front swaybar has bushings have been replaced.
- Steering box tightened up a little more.
- Discovered a bad battery under my hood.
- POR15 paint is in, so the oil pan should be getting a new look soon.
- Wire looms on the 42 pin connector, waterpump hose, etc, but still have not wrapped the pass fuel line.
- Verified my turbo housing 12pt bolts are in place.
- Should be getting my EVIC back to reinstall in the truck soon.
- Helped a very good buddy find, and go get, his new 2000 f250. A pretty cherry condition extra cab with a little over 100k on it. I am sharing all my notes with him so we will knock out several projects together.
Looking at my options on the hutch mod. To save some time and looking for parts I may be getting the Strictly Diesel tank kit. Get all the stuff together for when I can drop the tank.
I am also reconsidering the 6637 after reading more up on the AIS system. It might be a better route to go for me. Still digging on it.
Also getting my fluids together to do the brake flush and moved it up on the list. My cousin just lost a line on his f350 and fortunately right after dropping off his trailer with a bobcat. Front line blew and pretty much drained his master cylinder before he got it stopped. I want to get new fluid in mine and maybe even some braided lines.
Thanks for your help.
#11
08-12-2015, 07:21 AM
#12
08-12-2015, 10:35 AM
Jasper Transmission
Go to Jasper web site and check the features of their transmission-includes valve body upgrade.Installing another may void the warranty.
-guaranteed three years if properly installed and maintained;
-check the condition of the oil when you have it flushed;
-they require the lines to be chemically cleaned;
-they include a new cooler and recommend and offer an auxiliary cooler that may have already been installed;
-they offer a warranty up grade (not extension).Check the glove box for Jasper paper work, as any warranty may be transferable to you
Mine is compatible with my DPTuner live tunes, lowered my EGT's and gives improved performance and a little mpg improvement.
Good luck.
-guaranteed three years if properly installed and maintained;
-check the condition of the oil when you have it flushed;
-they require the lines to be chemically cleaned;
-they include a new cooler and recommend and offer an auxiliary cooler that may have already been installed;
-they offer a warranty up grade (not extension).Check the glove box for Jasper paper work, as any warranty may be transferable to you
Mine is compatible with my DPTuner live tunes, lowered my EGT's and gives improved performance and a little mpg improvement.
Good luck.
#13
08-13-2015, 08:09 AM
The strictly diesel kit for in-tank mods is way over engineered and waaaaay overpriced. I've done this mod to DOZENS of trucks - please don't make this mistake... All you need is a 3/8" compression union, a piece of 3/8" tubing (I will send you a piece of aluminum fuel line like I use for FREE ), a few inches of 5/16" 30R9 fuel hose, WIX 33972 fuel filter and (4) fuel injection hose clamps. This is all well under $20 and 1000% solves the problem - which is removing plugged filters from the tank and relocating the pre-pump filter/strainer to the frame rail where it is serviceable.
Anything more than a 50mic filter pre-pump is a BAD IDEA.
POR products are ridiculously overpriced and overrated. But, since you've already taken that koolaid - surface prep is critical to success. You need to remove every spec of oil, grease and salt contamination from the surfaces to be painted and beyond. Plan on several soaking wet sessions with degreaser and preferably hot water pressure washer while laying under the truck at various angles. Then, solvent wipe with lacquer thinner or similar using clean, white rags and then scarify the surface with sandpaper and perform a final solvent wipe before paint.
You can still expect this type of coating to crack and allow moisture/corrosion to get behind it and cause unseen damage. I have replaced a few pans that suffered an untimely death due to POR15... I just use Rustoleum rusty metal primer and oil-based enamel topcoat(s) - then touch up as needed every couple years.
I strongly recommend fuel pressure be one of your gauges.
), a few inches of 5/16" 30R9 fuel hose, WIX 33972 fuel filter and (4) fuel injection hose clamps. This is all well under $20 and 1000% solves the problem - which is removing plugged filters from the tank and relocating the pre-pump filter/strainer to the frame rail where it is serviceable. Anything more than a 50mic filter pre-pump is a BAD IDEA.
POR products are ridiculously overpriced and overrated. But, since you've already taken that koolaid - surface prep is critical to success. You need to remove every spec of oil, grease and salt contamination from the surfaces to be painted and beyond. Plan on several soaking wet sessions with degreaser and preferably hot water pressure washer while laying under the truck at various angles. Then, solvent wipe with lacquer thinner or similar using clean, white rags and then scarify the surface with sandpaper and perform a final solvent wipe before paint.
You can still expect this type of coating to crack and allow moisture/corrosion to get behind it and cause unseen damage. I have replaced a few pans that suffered an untimely death due to POR15... I just use Rustoleum rusty metal primer and oil-based enamel topcoat(s) - then touch up as needed every couple years.
I strongly recommend fuel pressure be one of your gauges.
#14
08-13-2015, 08:22 AM
#15
08-13-2015, 09:04 AM
+1 on the Racor pre filter. Same principle as OEM filtration maintained but much better.
My .02 is save some cash for all the maint. items you're currently unaware of. I've been taking care of those items for since I bought my 7.3 almost a year ago and still don't have tunes or gauges. Truck is running well enough now, I'm not sure I'm interested in them.
My .02 is save some cash for all the maint. items you're currently unaware of. I've been taking care of those items for since I bought my 7.3 almost a year ago and still don't have tunes or gauges. Truck is running well enough now, I'm not sure I'm interested in them.