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I have a 74 351w and I want to know if a flywheel for an 84 351w will work. Is there a difference in the balance. I want to be sure before I put this back in, dont want any more surprises.
Hey Scott! If you can, try to get the harmonic balancer from the engine the flywheel came off of. They are the same weight and balanced. If not, have your current harmonic balancer pulled and have them balance at the same time. A decent engine shop can perform this service for a nominal fee.
If these two items are not in balance, you will notice the vibration and the wear of the internals will be magnified. Good luck and we'll talk with you later....
Back to the balancing thing. Last fall I replaced my harmonic balancer (cause I'm a bonehead and forgot how to operate the puller while changing out the timing gears) and last weekend I replaced the flywheel/flexplate (Yes, another dumb*** attack) in my 351w. I replaced the harmonic shortly after I got the truck and had a mehchanic put a carb kit in it right after. Since then, I've had this vibration (I cant remember if it was there before or not, I don't think it was though). I'm pretty sure I put the balancer on the same way the old one come off and very sure about the position of the flywheel (I got the balancer at NAPA, and the flywheel at Advanced Auto cause they were open on Sunday)
My question is:
Should I take these off and and take them to an engine shop to have them balanced? Or is the aftermarket parts pretty reliable in weighting this stuff?
Hey Nick! Yes, you need to remove then both and have them balanced and weighed. Sorry. But you're engine will love you for it! It'll definately last longer. The vibration is causing the entire crank to vibrate and in turn is causing premature wear on all parts associated with the crankshaft. Which is pretty much everything!
Good call! The parts stores, yes even NAPA, buy great products from numerous manufacturers, but there's no standards of true weight's and measures when it comes to the exterior engine parts. It's like buying a package of 10 hot dogs, but the bakery only packages 8 buns! Makes me hungry! Talk with you guys later....
Well, that does make sense, but...., I called an engine shop here in town that is pretty well known and explained to them my situation, and they said it souldn't be anything to worry about because it's exteral from the enginge. They said if it was something to do with internal balancing for the crank, that then it would be a concern. So now I'm even more confused on what to think of my situation.
Sorry Nick... I've had to rebuild my share of motors also, and it DOES matter with the weight's and balancing of the flywheel and the harmonic balancer. The thing is, and I'll probably cause a few mechanics here to squirm a bit.. I'm not here at the Forum to make money off of you. And I'm not affiliated with any auto union.
And I don't work for the shop you refer to.
I'm sorry the information is now getting confusing. I felt the same way when my first experience with a machine shop told me it HAD to be done. I had to pay the 25.00 to have them balanced and weighed. It seemed stupid at the time, but the 25.00 probably saved me hundreds on a rebuild. I would continue to find out what you can. Talk to more shops. Ask them why do they spec out the flywheel and balancer with the weight. Whats the purpose of us, the consumer, needing to know that type of information. The X-Files... The truth is out there! Well, anyways, it's your call. I'm hoping some other's will join in on this thread and give some of their knowledge.... Talk to you later....
No, your probably right. It makes very good sense that this could be an issue with my motor. In the next month or two, when it cools back down, I'll probably pull the tranny out to fix my leaky
!*##ing rear seal, again, and get all this checked out. Thank you for your explanation.
Hey Nick, I remember something about the seal you are refering to. You had another post right? I did find out that you really should get/rent the seal installation tool for the job. You probably would't be yanking out your hair!
Use regular oil to film it all up, drop it in a can of oil I guess. The tool is T65P-6701-A or similar. If you have one of those magnetic torpedo levels, you can use it to make sure the tool is a constant.
The tool is made so that upon the tool stopping flush with the block, thats as far in as it should go. Re-install the rear cover and you're set to go. I hope this will assist you some. Thanks for the post and we'll talk with you later....
Hey Nick! No, I don't think so. It is a FORD PN, but I think it's also a reference number as well. You should be able to rent or get a loaner from where-ever you get the seal from. Unless, you are planning on doing 5 seals a year or so, I wouldn't purchase one.
Talk with you later buddy!
i have to agree with scotter they have to be balanced or premature ware will occure the shop probably just wants the ware to excellerate so youll be comming back for an engine rebuild later when a berring fails
Thanks for the info guys. I'm still having a hard time finding the rear main seal installation tool. I used the part# scooter gave me and one out of my haynes manual and none of the parts stores can get it. I've called: Ford, Oreilly's, NAPA, and Advanced, none of them rent it nor sell it. ????????????