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I called a wrecking yard today who will have a '64 F100 available in a week or so for parts. Can I use the turn signal switch in my '62? How about the window regulators? As cut'n pasted as my wiring is, I'd be interested in yanking out the entire wire harness too. One other question, the PO installed a 9" rear end, but cut both e-brake cables at the wheels. Are there any differences in cables, or can I get a pair and install those with "no problems"? Thanks
If the turn signal switch in the 64 still works I'm betting it's so brittle you break it trying to get it out. I took the cam out of mine and matched it up to the closest one I could find in the 'Help!' rack at the local Auto Zone. I wish I remembered which one I used, but I found one the same shape, all I had to do was cut the ends of the switch wires off to the same lenght as the one out of my truck to get it to work. A cheap $3 fix for a switch Obsolete Ford Parts wanted a C-note for...
Unless you are going for a 100% original restoration I'd look at a Painless wiring harness (or other brand) instead of trying to swap the one out of the 64... it will save you tons of work from not doing it all twice, and you won't be importing lots of problems from the 64... sometimes saving money on the front side isn't worth it in the long run...
The window regulators will work fine, but I'm not sure about the brake cables.
C-note?!?!? Yikes!!!!! I was able to get mine lubed a tad today, and it works easier, but it's still pretty stiff - not to mention the handle is stripped out. Wondering if I could JB weld it in then wonder how to get it out later. I've installed a Ron Francis wiring kit in the past, but couldn't use my original switches - and you're absoutely right about trying to swap problems from one to the other - thanks for reminding me. Appreciate the help!
The lever screws into the cam section of the turn signal switch - if you can find a close enough replacement that you can modify to work it will have a new threaded hole to screw it into. I'd check it out before you epoxy it in - you'll problably tear up the rest of the switch getting it out later if you do, and you'll loose your chance to try and fix it on the cheap.
Carpenter has those switches. I think I paid about 50 bucks or so? Sometimes you can harvest a good harness but chances are slim. Most of the problems are cut and spliced wires or in the fuse block. Depends on just how bad your harness is hacked? You may get away with a new fuse block, some weather pack connectors and some wire?
I have a 9" in my '61. I know it is not the original axle because it has the wrong gears in it. According to the vin it should be a 3.70 but it is a 3.92. I rebuilt my brakes and ordered stock e-brake cables for it and they seem to fit correctly. I also found an e-brake equalizer from a '64 because mine was missing. So I think that you could install new cables with no problems
For a wiring harness I would suggest an ez-wire one from the company that makes dolphin gauges. It was less than 180$ for a 12 circuit harness with fuse block. The wires are labeled every 5 inches and are gas/oil resistant. I'm pretty happy with the one that I bought.
Thanks guys - you're a real big help!!! After three afternoons of troubleshooting, I've decided my light switch is on borrowed time, the ignition switch has two wires cut to who knows where. Horn wire is cut twice - and every modified connector is showing bare wire - you can see where this is going. Why do I do this to myself??? I'll look into your suggestions with much hopefullness.
Your's doesn't sound bad... My 64's previous owner had 're-wired' the whole truck himself - He used solid core household wiring, all the same color, and tied everything together with household wire nuts. Yes the whole truck, headlights to taillights. This was just one of several 'fixes' he attempted... The first thing I bought for it was a wiring harness...
The previous owner of mine used twine and a fuse block from a 84 LTD. Spliced the newer fuse block into the original one. Then I had to unwire the sound system he made. I had 3 amplifies for 4 speakers. You know I seriously wonder if the guy was stupid or something, one of the Amps easily handles all four speakers and has more output if needed. But I know the frustration of "what F_ _ _ _ ing wire is this and where is it going. I had to chop out all of his handy work and run new wires. I plan on doing the EZ Wiring kit once I get to Cali. Just to simplify my life later on. I don't mind running aftermarket switches because I know I can convert some of them to still use the extrenal switch que's.
Yeah, I've pretty much decided a new wiring kit is in order, and found EZ to be within my budget - thanks for mentioning them. Now if I just find someone to rebuild my carb... Also just got my catalog from ***.....oh boy, it's starting to feel fun again!
Hello,
Does anyone know about the interchangeability of Ford Oil Pressure Sending units and Temperature sending units?
I have a '53 215 6cyl 6v and am having trouble with the Oil Pressure Gauge showing 80+ pressure. I've tried 3 different 'correct' sending units (not sure if they are good) and am wondering if I can get a later-model one and have it work?
The temp sender is kind of an odd-ball one, so I might have to get the correct one. I finally found one for around $50 (ouch), but haven't bought it yet (my last resort!).
Red, If it is important for you to know what the pressure is, install a new mechanical guage and sending unit. That will be the best and easiest fix. IMHO
You can still get new Ford signal light switches thru your local Ford dealer. They can have it NEXT DAY for you. No sense sending away for it when you can get it faster locally. You can still get the 2wd and the 4wd ones. I got one a few weeks ago for one of our members.
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