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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 07:48 AM
  #1  
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New purchase

Just bought '06 F250 XLT 4x4 w/ 158K. Had 7.3's in the past new to 6.0. Weekend truck - first trip turbo pipe connection to blue hose blew loose - thought motor blew up - put it back and all seemed well - should I be concerned? Now check engine light came on. I have read a little about scanners on here - do I need one and will they read codes? Also speedometer is off due to large tires - how do I tell computer about tire change?
Thanks Ted
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TedHJ
Just bought '06 F250 XLT 4x4 w/ 158K. Had 7.3's in the past new to 6.0. Weekend truck - first trip turbo pipe connection to blue hose blew loose - thought motor blew up - put it back and all seemed well - should I be concerned? Now check engine light came on. I have read a little about scanners on here - do I need one and will they read codes? Also speedometer is off due to large tires - how do I tell computer about tire change?
Thanks Ted
you will have to clean the boots really really good so they dont keep coming off.
a lot of people use a scan gauge II. it is a good monitor but does not read all codes. i swing by the parts store if i think i have a code. certain tuners can correct the speed for you.

do you know the history of your new 6.0. always sucks to have trouble with something you just bought.
get the codes pulled, and let us know what you have.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 08:04 AM
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No history - only that it is supposed to be stock - I feel like the guys I bought it from are reputable - have bought a couple vehicles in the past and had good luck - I will get the codes
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 11:36 AM
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If you order Scangauge 2 from Advanced Auto Parts website, and pick it up at the store, use discount code TRT30 to get $48 off the price. No store in my area, but shipping was free, just had to wait a few days.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 08:53 AM
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Thanks

Thank you guys for the replies. Drove truck to have aligned this morning and chk engine light is off - go figure.

Oil question: what oil are most of u running - I'm an old fart so conventional is what I am used to. Should I be running synthetic? Seems like an awful long time between oil changes. I'm a 3000 mile guy. Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 09:33 AM
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I run Mobil 1, Chevron Delo, or Shell Rotella 5w40. These engines are much a happier when they have synthetic oil to work with. I also don't go to the Ford recommended 7500 mile cycle. I usually change my oil and filter every 5K like clock work and my truck has been happy.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 10:47 AM
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If you change your oil every 5k, you can get away with running the non-synthetic diesel-rated oils during the summer. Just make sure it says CI-4 or preferably, CJ-4 on the bottle somewhere. Rotella and Delo are excellent for the price. I run Rotella T 15w-40 non-synthetic, but wouldn't dare exceed 5k oil change intervals. Synthetic is always better, and is highly recommended in winter, especially if it gets real cold where you live. Synthetic is also recommended if you tow heavy, as it stands up to extreme heat better.
ALWAYS use the motorcraft filters and make sure you don't have an aftermarket oil filter cap. The aftermarket filters and caps are way more trouble than the few dollars you save are worth.

It all comes down to what you want to spend on the oil. I am a bit of a cheapskate with the oil, but never skimp on the filter and run non-synthetic with 5k intervals. synthetic can get 7.5k intervals, but most still change it at 5k. The high pressure oil system in these trucks shears the oil and lowers the viscosity over time , so even with the best oil, going past 7.5k is not recommended.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TedHJ
Thank you guys for the replies. Drove truck to have aligned this morning and chk engine light is off - go figure.

Oil question: what oil are most of u running - I'm an old fart so conventional is what I am used to. Should I be running synthetic? Seems like an awful long time between oil changes. I'm a 3000 mile guy. Thanks again for the help.
Depending on what part of Tejas you're in, you might be able to get away with dino all the time, but synthetic is definitely better, at least for your injectors, and the money isn't that much more compared to the benefits.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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i use Rotella 5w40 T6 full synthetic and love it.
with the cost of parts on these engines i do not find it hard to spend a little extra cash on the better oil.
also if you look around online, you can typically find at least one parts store that has it on sale at any given time.

also, always make sure to use only the motorcraft oil filter, and filter cap.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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amazon will ship the Rotella blue for less than $20/gal....

menards and home depot have it around these parts, usually a few bucks less than any parts store.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:18 AM
  #11  
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I've been using mobile delvac 1 esp for sometime now and like it. You can Usually get it shipped for around 80 or a bit over with the discounts they always have. All depends on how much you want to spend for piece of mind.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:55 AM
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Thanks

Sounds like a no brainer to go with the synthetic - do I need to pick one and stay with it. On the rosella side is T6 and blue the same thing? Can I tell by looking if I have the right cap?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TedHJ
Sounds like a no brainer to go with the synthetic - do I need to pick one and stay with it. On the rosella side is T6 and blue the same thing? Can I tell by looking if I have the right cap?
the T6 rotella is in a blue bottle jug. there the same thing.
the stock cap is short. the ones you dont want are over-sized.
i cant remember if there are any markings/stamps on the oem cap or not.
 
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