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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Disassembling I-beams Stuck Bolt.

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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 09:33 PM
  #1  
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Disassembling I-beams Stuck Bolt.



Bathed it in PB Blaster if that helps.


I'm taking in the process of disassembling the I-beams on my 69 F250 and bolt that connects the radius arm to the I-beam on the right side seems frozen in place. I've taken off the coil spring and cup and the two nuts but the bolt wont budge. The impact gun does nothing. I didn't want to apply heat to it but right now I can't think of anything else unless I'm overlooking something really simple. It should turn freely right? Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 09:40 PM
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Jack the I-beam level and apply the impact gun from underneath?

Or put a wood block over the threaded end and wack it with a maul or substantial ballpeen.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Mine didn't come off that hard. If it were mine i'd run that nut down flush with the bolt then give it a couple love taps with the bfh. If you don't have an oxy-acetylene torch, then even a propane torch should help a little. Good luck!
 
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Old Jun 7, 2015 | 10:51 PM
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Thanks guys but I have tried all those things. I hit it harder than I should have with a sledge that is bigger than I should be using for a bolt I don't want to damage. I tried the impact gun and even a breaker bar with a 4+ foot cheater pipe on it. bent the breaker bar but no joy. I do have oxy acetylene but I didn't like the idea of putting heat to a forged piece. Having said that I've decided to replace these I-beams anyway and have ordered new ones from Autofab. I still need this bolt and radius arm though so tomorrow it gets the torch. I can take the assembly to the press to so I'll try that too.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Lug Nut


Bathed it in PB Blaster if that helps.


I'm taking in the process of disassembling the I-beams on my 69 F250 and bolt that connects the radius arm to the I-beam on the right side seems frozen in place. I've taken off the coil spring and cup and the two nuts but the bolt wont budge. The impact gun does nothing. I didn't want to apply heat to it but right now I can't think of anything else unless I'm overlooking something really simple. It should turn freely right? Thanks.
I was about to say a man with a cheater bar is 10 times stronger than an impact gun, but then I read that used a 4 foot cheater and bent that! Wow, that is tough! I know this might sound stupid, but have you tried TIGHTENING it? I have found, sometimes, on a stuck bolt if I can force it in a teeny bit tighter it then lets me loosen it. Just a thought and I don't want to be responsible if that makes it worse
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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Ditto on what the Cracker said. I do that very thing with all my line nuts so I won't round them off.
Good luck and lets us know the final out come.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 10:34 AM
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I'd hit it after applying a good amount of heat.
If your a welder you should know about how much heat to put on it.

It's not like your going to be heating it up to do any welding on it. Right.

Orich
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 10:50 AM
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Beat it up. The price of a new bolt has to be WAY less than the price of a new I beam or Radius Rod.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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n/m, dumb suggestion
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 04:34 PM
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Heat, Hammering and cursing did the trick. I didn't get it that hot and only used a plumbers torch and not the oxy rig. The other side came right apart.
now on to the fun stuff.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 06:40 PM
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Anti-Seize the bolt shank and threads, before you reassemble.

 
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 10:55 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Lug Nut
Heat, Hammering and cursing did the trick.
You were supposed to curse the first time. Let that be a lesson to you.
 
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