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hey guys,
my truck is currently in a shop having HGs and studs done, and some injectors.
they ran into something that doesn't quite make sense to them, or me.
the only code the truck had was a cylinder #2 injector balance code.
they did a cylinder contribution test, and #2 shows fine (physically looks good in hand also), but the entire right bank failed the contribution test, and needs replacing.
any ideas on this?
they are going to leave the #2 injector at this point alone and see what it does.
the other 4 that failed during the contribution test are being replaced.
hey guys,
my truck is currently in a shop having HGs and studs done, and some injectors.
they ran into something that doesn't quite make sense to them, or me.
the only code the truck had was a cylinder #2 injector balance code.
they did a cylinder contribution test, and #2 shows fine (physically looks good in hand also), but the entire right bank failed the contribution test, and needs replacing.
any ideas on this?
they are going to leave the #2 injector at this point alone and see what it does.
the other 4 that failed during the contribution test are being replaced.
The PCM is pretty good at pinning down bad injectors with a contribution code, every contribution code I have gotten has been fixed by replacing the injector for that cylinder. You cannot tell an injector is bad just by looking at it. Depending on the miles and your budget I would replace them all if you are doing the 4 anyway. You also need to have the dynamic ( wide open throttle while driving condition ) fuel pressure tested, the dealership techs have a tool that simulates this condition in a shop setting but the only other way to check it is by installing a gauge and taking it for a drive while watching the gauge and do some wide open throttle runs, the fuel pressure needs to remain above 45 PSI at all times including WOT. Low fuel pressure is the leading cause of injector failure, and this is a problem with the 6.0L as it will run on next to no fuel pressure so you can be doing damage to the injectors and not even know it. Make sure you install OEM injectors and do the blue spring update for the fuel pressure regulator.
The PCM is pretty good at pinning down bad injectors with a contribution code, every contribution code I have gotten has been fixed by replacing the injector for that cylinder. You cannot tell an injector is bad just by looking at it. Depending on the miles and your budget I would replace them all if you are doing the 4 anyway. You also need to have the dynamic ( wide open throttle while driving condition ) fuel pressure tested, the dealership techs have a tool that simulates this condition in a shop setting but the only other way to check it is by installing a gauge and taking it for a drive while watching the gauge do some wide open throttle runs, the fuel pressure needs to remain above 45 PSI at all times including WOT. Low fuel pressure is the leading cause of injector failure, and this is a problem with the 6.0L as it will run on next to no fuel pressure so you can be doing damage to the injectors and not even know it.
i have done the blue spring update but have not checked the pressure.
#2 passed during a contribution test.
surely they checked the fuel pressure whilst doing all of this work. i will call and ask them.
the next thing i will be doing is getting a electronic sender and gauge so i can monitor it all the time.
he said the left bank injectors look to be newer and not original. the right bank however looks to be original. (these 4 failed the contribution test)
im just curious why have a code for #2 and it passed the contribution test, and why i have no codes for the right bank and they all failed??
i have done the blue spring update but have not checked the pressure.
#2 passed during a contribution test.
surely they checked the fuel pressure whilst doing all of this work. i will call and ask them.
the next thing i will be doing is getting a electronic sender and gauge so i can monitor it all the time.
he said the left bank injectors look to be newer and not original. the right bank however looks to be original. (these 4 failed the contribution test)
im just curious why have a code for #2 and it passed the contribution test, and why i have no codes for the right bank and they all failed??
Is there any chance the #2 code could have been an old one?
Is there any chance the #2 code could have been an old one?
yes there is a good chance it could be.
i have not had the codes checked since i have had the truck, other than what my scan gauge will pull up. (which isn't much)
i haven't done a hard reset or pulled the batteries either.
no CEL light ever either.
i guess we will see if it comes back after it is done.
if it does, i will replace that one myself. i just had them do it because it won't cost me any labor $ to do it while they're in there anyways. just parts costs.
Contribution test with IDS or another scanner? If they don't turn off compensation as you do with IDS it's a false test.
I'm not 100% on that but I have seen a video were he turned off compensation on a contribution test so I'm sure he can. but not sure if he did on my truck or not. I'm sure he probably did though.
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