When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I would like to say hi to everybody & thank you for any help ur willing to give. So where I live it gets 5 million degree's in the summer & I would like to resurrect the a.c system in the ole girl. In the 10 years I've owned her it hasn't worked. I know it needs to be converted to 134A refrigerant + I plan to replace compressor for sure so my question is WHAT OTHER PARTS NEED / SHOULD BE REPLACED IN ORDER FOR A SAFE / PROPER CHANGE OVER. i'M NOT asking whats wrong with my ac or diagnosis. oh yeah its a 1990 f150 in California
Compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, lines, all the orings and a condensor from an R134a truck. I got all that for mine (minus condensor) for like $300 from rock auto
agree with miguel.in.az, im also in AZ, hot hot hot. lucky for me my ac is still running fine on the old R12 system, so miguel.in.az does the Compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, lines, all the orings and a condensor from an R134a truck directly bolt on in place of the R12 setup.
On my 89 F250, the system was empty for many years before I changed it over.
I dumped out the old R12 oil from the compressor and replaced it with PEG oil. I replaced all o-rings,dryer and orifice tube. I cleaned out the evap, condenser and lines.
Pull a really good vacuum and recharged with R134 about 75% of what's called for of R12. I get ice cubes tossed at me now from the ducts!
On my 89 F250, the system was empty for many years before I changed it over.
I dumped out the old R12 oil from the compressor and replaced it with PEG oil. I replaced all o-rings,dryer and orifice tube. I cleaned out the evap, condenser and lines.
Pull a really good vacuum and recharged with R134 about 75% of what's called for of R12. I get ice cubes tossed at me now from the ducts!
Over 2 years now and no issues.
I'm glad it worked for you, really I am, but I believe in do it right or go home...replacing the above mentioned parts will ensure the results will last and the performance is comparable to factory.
I am an admitted R12 to R134a non-advocate for a reason. For every success story there are dozens of epic fails.
You're in Arizona, right? Unless things have changed since I lived there, can't you just drive down to Nogales and get the AC system rebuilt with the good refrigerant cheaper than converting it to inferior specs?
I'm sure as you or whoever is doing the work has an EPA 609 cert they can still service an R12 system north of the border, they just have to recover all of the R12 properly, not let it vent out
It's not that there aren't good people to work on your R12 system in the U.S. Its that the U.S. Government puts a HUGE charge on R12 to encourage conservation. It's like $100 or $300 a pound north of the border, but MUCH cheaper in Mexico.this stuff ain't rocket science. I don't really think there's much difference between the quality of mechanics in Mexico vs the U.S.
But Bullhead city would be pretty good drive. Probably not worth it.
Btw, I recharged two systems myself last year with the R134a from the auto parts store. Both systems were barely working and were over 15 years old, probably never recharged before. It worked fine, but it's just not as cold. It would have been better to evacuate with a pump first.
With my 89 Ranger that hadn't had a functioning air conditioning system in countless years I vac'ed out the system and recharged it with 134A until the compressor clutch quit cycling at 1000rpm, generally around 34psi max pressure on the low side at 85° at an idol and it's been ice cold for five or six years but with an old truck as I have I would expect to need to recharge the system annually unless you do a complete seal replacement, I need a full can of 134A every year to keep it there.
I'm glad it worked for you, really I am, but I believe in do it right or go home...replacing the above mentioned parts will ensure the results will last and the performance is comparable to factory.
I am an admitted R12 to R134a non-advocate for a reason. For every success story there are dozens of epic fails.
Randy hit the nail on the head, way to many failures out there a r-12 system is not meant to run on the higher pressure of 134a, The front seal in the compressor always fails, cant mix the oils, PAG oil wont mix with regular petroleum oil and will cause corrosion inside the parts. You always get the warm up at a stop, then it cools down as you drive. You never get it right, replace all the parts, then you will have a dependable system.
On my 89 F250, the system was empty for many years before I changed it over.
I dumped out the old R12 oil from the compressor and replaced it with PEG oil. I replaced all o-rings,dryer and orifice tube. I cleaned out the evap, condenser and lines.
Pull a really good vacuum and recharged with R134 about 75% of what's called for of R12. I get ice cubes tossed at me now from the ducts!
Over 2 years now and no issues.
What is PEG oil I never heard of it is it new, I use the recommended amount of PAG oil
i went though all of this with a 70 mustang, the r134 conversion. finally bought the retrofit kit, it had all the r134 hoses, compressor and condenser. it did pretty good with outside temps of 120+. dont know if they make a complete retrofit jot for the older 90's or 80's ford trucks or broncos.
What is PEG oil I never heard of it is it new, I use the recommended amount of PAG oil
Typo, should be PAG.
I find it interesting others knock what I have done to my vehicles...
It works for me and I have done this conversion on ALL my vehicles and NEVER had any issues. Lucky? may be... or a 5 to 8 hour hard vacuum helps... I do not know, but it works for me.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.