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The thing I like about the tank in the bed is that you don't need a switching tank valve, second gauge, or any of that if your smart about the hoses. I ordered a 20 gallon aluminum drag race fuel cell from Summit. The top of the cell sit's just below the filler neck and I connected the low end of the cell to the vent tube of the under the bed tank and vent through the cell. That way I can run the cell completely dry and get the full 20 gallons out of the cell. I only use the cell when I'm towing and remove it when I'm hauling stuff in the bed; In the mountains I get 6 mi/gal towing so I needed more range then what the 22 gal tank offered and I removed the in-cab tank. It's as simple as removing 4 bolts and pluging the line from the cell to the tank to remove it (5 min tops). Putting an aft-axle tank scard me because of how high my truck sits and if a small car re-ends me they could hit the tank before they hit the bumper. If you could build your own tank I would build a larger capacity one to go in place of the stock under the bed aux tank. I have a long bed truck and there is plenty of room for the tank to be longer and maybe even wider toward the back. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I sent both my tanks out to Moyers Gas Tank Repair and they did a wonderful job on both. Interior was sand blasted and then they fixed all leaks and coated them inside and out with a sealant that is baked on in an oven. They look like they will last forever. I tryed some plastic coating once from Eastwood on a motorcycle tank and it didn't work very well at all. Also, just my opinion, I wouldn't put a big after market gas tank between the frame rails without boxing them first. 40 gallons of gas is a lot of weight.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.