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I just replaced the ball joints in my '88 F250. It has a Dana 44 HD axle.
When I pulled the hub locknut, the whole rotor/hub assembly came right off. I left the wheel bearing, lock nut, all of it right inside the hub assembly while I replaced the ball joints. When I went to reinstall it, I slid the whole shebang over the spindle, made sure everything was seated all the way back, and tightened the locknut down again.
But now I'm reading that there's an inner locknut too?
There was only one I had to loosen to pull the assembly, if there was an inner nut then wouldn't I have had to loosen that as well before the hub assembly came loose?
I test drove it after I put everything back together and it all felt fine, but I definitely don't want to ruin something.
I got a van, so I'm not much help for you. This is more of a Diesel specific forum. Not that the guys here couldn't help you with your steering/suspension issue, but you might get more generic advice from the 1987-1996 Ford Truck forum: 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Thanks, I didn't realize I placed it in the wrong forum. Reposted in the appropriate section.
Can't hurt to post in both sections. The IDI section has the friendliest and most helpful guys out there, so you'll probably get an answer from them as well.
I didn't take any pictures, it's all back together now.
When I disassembled it, this is how it went: (forgive me for not using proper names)
Pulled 6 hex bolts from hub locker, remove hub locker
Remove snap ring on end of axle shaft
Remove retaining screw that holds the gear that slides over spindle
Remove the gear and the spring behind it
Remove wire retaining ring from ID of hub
Remove large gear assembly
Unthread hub locknut from spindle
Leaving locknut and all pieces in the hub, I pulled the rotor/hub assembly off the spindle
Assembly was exactly reverse.
My thinking is that, if there was a second locknut to unscrew, then I would've had to do that before the rotor/hub assembly could come off of the spindle, right?
There is definitely supposed to be two nuts you have to remove. Generally there is an outer locknut that is really tight, then a special washer of sorts that engages a tab or slot in the spindle and somehow holds the inner nut from coming loose. The inner nut is only torqued to some lower number that keeps the bearing tight, but lets it spin easily.
The 10.25 sterling rear axle has a special ratcheting locknut that works like one piece, but other than that you should have a second nut in there to keep things from loosening.
as said above, there is supposed to be two nuts and an indexing washer.
can you drive it safely the way it is? yes, for a while. but i would get the parts to put it back together properly. the way it is now, the lock nut can loosen up and the bearings will commit suicide.
Well that's not exactly what I was hoping to hear. But thanks for your input. I'll track down a parts diagram to compare to and see what I need. Who is a recommended manufacturer/vendor if I do need to buy these locknuts?
it could be.
or i may be wrong and the 44 only had the one lock nut.
it is not like i have never been wrong before, and i am sure i will get something wrong again.
unlike what my ex wife told everyone she met, i AM NOT a perfect a-hole.
There needs to be something to keep the nut from loosening, unless its a weird design like the ford/sterling 10.25 rear end which has the ratcheting nut. Otherwise as the hub rotates it will loosen up from the motion.
Unless its setup like a trailer axle where there is a castle nut or fancy pronged washer over the nut that takes a cotter pin. But I don't think that would work right with a locking hub....
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