can anyone help
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Joined: May 2015
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can anyone help
I have a 96 f250 7.5l 2 wheel drive truck. I am having an issue with it turning off while I am driving, doesn't sputter out or anything just turns off like the key was turned off. Can not figure out why it keeps doing this. Any suggestions, also I have to wait for the truck to cool down like an hr or two before it'll start again and sometimes it'll start right up.
Last edited by dlane15; May 29, 2015 at 07:08 AM. Reason: add more
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Almost sounds like the ICM is failing. That or the ignition coil.
When it doesn't restart after shutting down, check for spark. If there isn't spark, then I'm lead to believe its either:
A. ICM
B. Ignition Coil
C. Loss of PIP ( This is a common problem and if its the PIP, then the stator inside the distributor is going out.)
Some have replaced the distributor, but usually get a Reman, and thus the stator inside is still bad. If you find its the stator that is bad, opt to do the replacement yourself or buy a NEW, not Reman, distributor.
When it doesn't restart after shutting down, check for spark. If there isn't spark, then I'm lead to believe its either:
A. ICM
B. Ignition Coil
C. Loss of PIP ( This is a common problem and if its the PIP, then the stator inside the distributor is going out.)
Some have replaced the distributor, but usually get a Reman, and thus the stator inside is still bad. If you find its the stator that is bad, opt to do the replacement yourself or buy a NEW, not Reman, distributor.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 17
From: SW Florida
First suspect, bad PIP sensor.
Second, bad ICM.
But it's important to keep an open mind at this point so let's start with something that won't cost a dime and that is to check for fault codes in the computer even if you have no check engine light on.
If the computer don't return any codes, or if you have codes for PIP (or they might come back as crankshaft position sensor faults) then next time it won't start, do the diagnostics as shown:
OR...
Get a heat gun on LOW (or a hairdryer) and starting with a cold engine, fire it up and put the heat gun to the distributor. If it quits running when the PIP gets hot... then you know the problem. Obviously if you melt the wires or something it will also quit... you don't want to get it that hot... lol.
Second, bad ICM.
But it's important to keep an open mind at this point so let's start with something that won't cost a dime and that is to check for fault codes in the computer even if you have no check engine light on.
If the computer don't return any codes, or if you have codes for PIP (or they might come back as crankshaft position sensor faults) then next time it won't start, do the diagnostics as shown:
OR...
Get a heat gun on LOW (or a hairdryer) and starting with a cold engine, fire it up and put the heat gun to the distributor. If it quits running when the PIP gets hot... then you know the problem. Obviously if you melt the wires or something it will also quit... you don't want to get it that hot... lol.
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