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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Electrical problem please help.

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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 11:26 AM
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Electrical problem please help.

Hi my name is James and I am new to this site. I have a 1995 ford f150 300 I6. I have had an electrical problem that I cannot figure out. The truck looses spark. I have replaced the coil and ignition module. I removed the spout connector and it would start I then would plug it back in after it fired up and it would run. I ran it like that for a month. I was driving the other day and it just died on me. I removed the spout and still nothing. I kept trying and finally got it to start again. I let it idle for awhile and when I went to put it in gear and pull out it died immediately. Now I can't get it to start. The coil is getting 12v but it doesn't flicker. It's like the pip is bad. I just don't understand because I read if you pull the spout it means the computer is bad not the pip. But now nothing will make it start. It's a hit or miss if I can get it running. I think something is keeping the pip sensor from closing.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
No "flicker" means the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is not firing the Ignition Coil.
I hope the replacement ICM was Black in color. Your truck is NOT wired for the Gray one.
With the SPOUT out and no "flicker" I would say bad PIP sensor.

You need to check your codes before going much further with the problem. The CM codes is what you need to look at.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
No "flicker" means the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is not firing the Ignition Coil.
I hope the replacement ICM was Black in color. Your truck is NOT wired for the Gray one.
With the SPOUT out and no "flicker" I would say bad PIP sensor.

You need to check your codes before going much further with the problem. The CM codes is what you need to look at.

They both are black. Codes were. 522. 114..and 111. Now I figured that it would be the pip. But what explains the truck not starting before until I pull the spout. I had to pull the spout out everytime I need to start it. It would immediately start. Which would mean the pip is still good. I had it running for atleast 5 min before I pulled out. And immediately lost spark again.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Get hold of another distributor, borrow, beg, whatever, stick it in the engine, then try starting.


I'm betting on an intermittently operating Hall-Effect transducer in your distributor. It is serviceable separately, but if mileage is high, the distributor housing is likely well-worn, and a new distributor puts new spark into things! impish
 
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by impish
Get hold of another distributor, borrow, beg, whatever, stick it in the engine, then try starting.


I'm betting on an intermittently operating Hall-Effect transducer in your distributor. It is serviceable separately, but if mileage is high, the distributor housing is likely well-worn, and a new distributor puts new spark into things! impish
Can someone tell me how to change the distributor?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Legarsky56
Can someone tell me how to change the distributor?
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...0210157AA6LLQB
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 01:16 PM
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Did you try tracing the wires that go to the distributor? maybe they are chaffed or grounding out, bad connection? I'd look those over before diving right into the distributor. JMO though.
 
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