Is there any difference in the mounting of the front shocks for a 1969 F250 vs a 1970? I'm looking for heavy duty 3" extended shocks for my 69' but the only listings I can find for 2wd and 3" lift start at 1970. For 4wd it's usually listed for 66' to 79'. I was under the impression that 69-73 2wd were mostly the same. Please correct me if I've got this wrong.

Thanks.

 

I can't imagine they would be any different, but I've never seen them.

I know the rear shocks are different from 68 to 71.

 

All 2wd pickups are bolt hole exchange from 65 to 79 from the rear cab mount to the front bumper.


John

 

Thanks. I bought I-beams from Autofab to do a 3" lift on my 2wd. So far I've only found one source that offers shocks that are spec'd for a lifted 2wd of my vintage.

 

LN, I doubt very much that it matters. Shocks are supposed to dampen bumps half extended, fully extended or what ever in between.


John

 

Depending on the beams you might not need anything different from stock. If it's like the Dream Beams, all the height difference is between the knuckle and radius arm mount, everything else is the same.

 

Yes, but I have way too many irons in the fire and wanted to minimize the time I spent finding shocks with the right ends, Length and damping rate, for my application. It does make things faster if the manufacturer has done that work already. That way it should bolt right up with only a few hours of machining, welding and cursing (like all bolt on parts) .

 

Don't complain about the manufacturer not testing shocks as it would raise the costs to test all the many possible combinations out there, and everyone's truck is different. Each truck has different rated springs used. Do what the Class 8 racers do to find the correct shock length: put the front end up on jackstands and let the suspension droop down full length. Measure center to center of the shock mounts. Now put a jack under each I-beam and raise the beam so the suspension is at full compression, and now measure again. This is the parameters of shock length that you have to work within. Valving is up to you because it depends on the type of driving you want to do. And don't forget limiting straps to prevent something from coming undone at full droop.