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OK, tried to tow my camper home. First hill = overheat. Would not cool off. Fan seems to be increasing and decreasing with temp, somewhat. Its brand new and there are no DTCs present.
Also, there is a ton of pressure in the cooling system after some light towing. I think it blew a head gasket.
Since the coolant isn't boiling over, I would suspect the accuracy of the gauge.
It is overheating. I can hear the coolant boiling in the radiator. It gets to 200-205 unloaded now, whereas a week ago, tops 195. I did not hear the fan turn on today when I towed home (overheated again and had to call a friend to tow trailer home). When I monitor it, the fastest it will go is 440 even with engine at 3000 rpm. When temp reached 238, fan was still off, coasting at 400 when engine was at 1500-2000 rpm. There is no DTCs again and my deltas are within 5 and climb with the coolant to 240. I don't have any puking of coolant, only boiling when I remove the cap when its close to overheating. This fan clutch is new but I've never heard it turn on.
You should hear the fan no problem at that temp even traveling at 65 you should hear it
Time to troubleshoot that fan clutch
I think you can ground a wire and make it lock in been awhile and there's better ways to trouble shoot it
Oh ya it's was a way for guys to lock in fan clutch it was a mod but shire you could check rpm and lock In this way in a pinch
I spliced into the blue wire and ran it to ground. That has resulted in nothing. Left it for 5 minutes to assure that the current is heating the element fully. The fan stays at 300rpm at idle, max 440 at 3000 rpm regardless of temperature.
There seems to viscous fluid on the fan blades. Im not quite sure it it's from the fan clutch, but its a sticky substance that is evenly spread on all of the fan blades. It wasn't there last week as I just had the radiator out to give me more room to change the STC fitting and oil cooler.
Also, I get no smoke, no indication of anything failing or anything else. In the last two weeks I have replaced/updated/rebuilt the following;
Dropped it off at ford today. I went through what pinpoint tests I could without IDS and found nothing. It looks like the PCM isn't commanding it to turn on.
Got it back from the dealer today. The new fan clutch is bad, but here's the funny part.
They said the electrical side of the fan clutch worked perfectly and would actuate as it should, however, there was no silicone left in it. It was stored improperly allowing the silicone to compromise the case seal, and when it actuated the first time, the seal ruptured and it leaked all of the silicone out.
The tech went into the store room and checked how all of the other clutches are being stored. All boxes were vertical instead of horizontal. All are now considered bad.
I did some research and found a rebuilder that remanufactures these clutches. "Torqflo" clutches have a lifetime warranty and are priced similar to the motorcraft unit, so I purchased one. First impression, its definitely packaged better than the motorcraft unit and has a much sturdier connector bracket. I'll check back when its installed.
New fan clutch fixed it, but I have some interesting news about the unit I purchased.
Ford is selling remanufactured fan clutches. I bought an Autozone fan clutch for $270 with a lifetime warranty. I opened it up and to my amazement, its the exact same unit for is selling, down to the ink dots. There is literally no difference. My original fan clutch has the part number and "visctronic" mechanically etched into the case. The last new clutch I got from ford had an ink printed part number and ink printed "visctronic" label. My Autozone unit is exactly the same, but for much less money and a better warranty.