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Old May 24, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #16  
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Batteries are 30 days old and the alternator is new last week.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 03:44 PM
  #17  
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OK, tried to tow my camper home. First hill = overheat. Would not cool off. Fan seems to be increasing and decreasing with temp, somewhat. Its brand new and there are no DTCs present.

Also, there is a ton of pressure in the cooling system after some light towing. I think it blew a head gasket.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 04:09 PM
  #18  
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Since the coolant isn't boiling over, I would suspect the accuracy of the gauge.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 06:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Don Naslund
Since the coolant isn't boiling over, I would suspect the accuracy of the gauge.
It is overheating. I can hear the coolant boiling in the radiator. It gets to 200-205 unloaded now, whereas a week ago, tops 195. I did not hear the fan turn on today when I towed home (overheated again and had to call a friend to tow trailer home). When I monitor it, the fastest it will go is 440 even with engine at 3000 rpm. When temp reached 238, fan was still off, coasting at 400 when engine was at 1500-2000 rpm. There is no DTCs again and my deltas are within 5 and climb with the coolant to 240. I don't have any puking of coolant, only boiling when I remove the cap when its close to overheating. This fan clutch is new but I've never heard it turn on.
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #20  
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Your fan should be hitting 2500 rpm in that condition

That's a guess^^

Thpicaly I will see 1500-1800 fan rpm with ECT OF 216*+
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #21  
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Is the fan harness ok

The fan clutch should be kicking in at your ECT

You should hear the fan no problem at that temp even traveling at 65 you should hear it

Time to troubleshoot that fan clutch

I think you can ground a wire and make it lock in been awhile and there's better ways to trouble shoot it

Oh ya it's was a way for guys to lock in fan clutch it was a mod but shire you could check rpm and lock In this way in a pinch
 
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Old May 25, 2015 | 10:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Is the fan harness ok

The fan clutch should be kicking in at your ECT

You should hear the fan no problem at that temp even traveling at 65 you should hear it

Time to troubleshoot that fan clutch

I think you can ground a wire and make it lock in been awhile and there's better ways to trouble shoot it

Oh ya it's was a way for guys to lock in fan clutch it was a mod but shire you could check rpm and lock In this way in a pinch
I spliced into the blue wire and ran it to ground. That has resulted in nothing. Left it for 5 minutes to assure that the current is heating the element fully. The fan stays at 300rpm at idle, max 440 at 3000 rpm regardless of temperature.

There seems to viscous fluid on the fan blades. Im not quite sure it it's from the fan clutch, but its a sticky substance that is evenly spread on all of the fan blades. It wasn't there last week as I just had the radiator out to give me more room to change the STC fitting and oil cooler.

Also, I get no smoke, no indication of anything failing or anything else. In the last two weeks I have replaced/updated/rebuilt the following;

Fan Clutch
EGR Valve
Accessory belt
Alternator
Oil cooler
STC Fitting
Turbo VGT cleaning/rebuild w/new bearings and seals
Batteries (Factory Motorcraft)
Positive Battery cable assembly
ELC coolant
Coolant Filter
Rotella T6 5w40 w/motorcraft filter
ICP sensor
IPR Valve
Thermostat (twice)

My deltas are in, even with high temps. I get no DTCs or anything else other than the fan only reaching 440 rpm at 3000 rpm.

Is there a "fan duty cycle" PID I could monitor with Torque or Scangauge? I have both.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 05:25 AM
  #23  
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Do you have the stock EGR valve plugged in? If not, plug it in and retest.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:04 AM
  #24  
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You can try this one for scangauge. Hasn't worked for everyone tho.

Fan Speed Sensor Duty Cycle (%)
TXD: 07E022091F
RXF: 04624509061F
RXD: 3010
MTH: 013103E80000
NAM: FDC
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 08:52 AM
  #25  
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Is it a oem fan clutch or aftermarket one? New doesn't mean it works
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 09:33 AM
  #26  
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Sounds like the fan clutch took a dump since it is a viscous fan drive.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 01:56 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
Is it a oem fan clutch or aftermarket one? New doesn't mean it works
OEM from ford.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 08:54 PM
  #28  
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Dropped it off at ford today. I went through what pinpoint tests I could without IDS and found nothing. It looks like the PCM isn't commanding it to turn on.
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 08:48 PM
  #29  
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Got it back from the dealer today. The new fan clutch is bad, but here's the funny part.

They said the electrical side of the fan clutch worked perfectly and would actuate as it should, however, there was no silicone left in it. It was stored improperly allowing the silicone to compromise the case seal, and when it actuated the first time, the seal ruptured and it leaked all of the silicone out.

The tech went into the store room and checked how all of the other clutches are being stored. All boxes were vertical instead of horizontal. All are now considered bad.

I did some research and found a rebuilder that remanufactures these clutches. "Torqflo" clutches have a lifetime warranty and are priced similar to the motorcraft unit, so I purchased one. First impression, its definitely packaged better than the motorcraft unit and has a much sturdier connector bracket. I'll check back when its installed.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 06:31 PM
  #30  
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New fan clutch fixed it, but I have some interesting news about the unit I purchased.

Ford is selling remanufactured fan clutches. I bought an Autozone fan clutch for $270 with a lifetime warranty. I opened it up and to my amazement, its the exact same unit for is selling, down to the ink dots. There is literally no difference. My original fan clutch has the part number and "visctronic" mechanically etched into the case. The last new clutch I got from ford had an ink printed part number and ink printed "visctronic" label. My Autozone unit is exactly the same, but for much less money and a better warranty.
 
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