FYI; I'm almost to the point of giving up on this truck.

In the last 3 weeks I've replaced the oil cooler. IPR, ICP, fan clutch, intercooler, rebuilt the turbo, new elc coolant, egr valve, thermostat, new batteries, positive battery cable, and alternator and a host of other crap. Now I have a new problem.

When towing it overheats, almost instantly under load. I was towing a 9k trailer up a hill, a total of about a 30 second climb and it overheated (242 degrees). I'm thinking head gaskets at this point as they are stock and have the tty bolts installed.

 

Does it cool off very quickly when you get out of it as well??

 

Also did the fan come on at all?

 

Yes, it cools off fairly quickly. On another note, it got up to 222 and would not cool off earlier, even when stopped.

Now, even under no load, it gets to 200+ under mild acceleration. It also has a lot of pressure in the cooling system when I unscrew the cap. No oil in coolant or vice versa. I don't have any puking or white haze under cap either.

 

I couldn't tell. I'll be programming that pid into my scangauge today. It should be though, its brand new as the old one failed and left a code. I have no DTCs, by the way.

 

you would know if the fan came on. lol she is quite loud.

are you loosing any coolant?

 

No, and that's the funny thing. It gets hot, yet loses no coolant. On inspection, the pressure in the degas bottle seemed normal as compared to the previous V10 truck I had. I'm leaning more towards a water pump or thermostat at this point. There's literally no indication of a head gasket failure.

 

weird. do you have your EGR valve blocked off or unplugged?
heard that this messes with the fans typical operation.
also the t stats on these trucks tend to stick open rather than closed but is a possibility for sure.

you are supposed to have pressure in your degas bottle. (raises the boiling point of the coolant / water)
could be the water pump too, im not sure if the water pumps on these trucks have a weep hole or not. im sure they probably do though but dont quote me on that lol

 

Egr is operational. Also, from m what I understand, the water pump in mpeller can come loose and spin independently of the shaft and can lost impeller blades. I just don't know what to do. I think that m just going going to replace head gaskets and stud it but also replace the water pump. I need this damn truck to work. I've owned it a total of 60 days and its already soaked me for $2k. It will run, no matter what.

 

Before going through all that work and expense of heads, since you just changed out the thermostat how about re-checking it out first.

 

I think you need to step back and take a more of a educated look so you just don't throw money at it.Read through the stickies up top and take the time to really get to know your truck, you will be better informed and less"crazy" with the simptoms of diagnosis of this animal

 

X2 on the Thermostat , did you go OEM ?

 

Yes, its OEM.

 

I pulled the new OEM thermostat and it seems sticky. I replaced it with a stant unit (all there was around me) and now it hovers around 195. I can get it to go to 200 by punching it for a few blocks. I also noticed that the FMP voltage is fluxing between 45.5 and 49 volts randomly. The coolant coming out of my coolant filter is a very slow trickle and the filter is new. I'm thinking my coolant pump is failing.

 

you might need a water pump...
also need to check out your batteries and charging system.
any lower than 45.5 and your looking at probably needing an FICM too.