EGR Valve - clean or replace?
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EGR Valve - clean or replace?
Hello,
2004 6.0L, 248k on the clock and I put on between 15k and 20k/yr.
I've had EGR codes 3 times in the 4 years I've owned it and sitting on the 4th code as I type. I have had a tech tell me you can't clean the EGR. I've cleaned it the first three times without any obvious issues.
Questions:
I've not seen many discussions about this - does everyone's 6.0 cake the crap out of their EGR or do I just have one of the lucky ones?
Is there anything that helps avoid it or slow it down anyway?
What is the best practice - replace, clean or doesn't matter?
If you replace - I see the standard brand names out there, any to avoid?
Thanks
Mike
2004 6.0L, 248k on the clock and I put on between 15k and 20k/yr.
I've had EGR codes 3 times in the 4 years I've owned it and sitting on the 4th code as I type. I have had a tech tell me you can't clean the EGR. I've cleaned it the first three times without any obvious issues.
Questions:
I've not seen many discussions about this - does everyone's 6.0 cake the crap out of their EGR or do I just have one of the lucky ones?
Is there anything that helps avoid it or slow it down anyway?
What is the best practice - replace, clean or doesn't matter?
If you replace - I see the standard brand names out there, any to avoid?
Thanks
Mike
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,139
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What year was your motor made(sticker on PS valve cover)? What are the codes? If it's P0401, and only pops up very infrequently, there isnt much to worry about. If it really bothers you, replace the valve if it's over 4 years old.
If the deposits are dry, you can help reduce buildup on the valve by occasionally driving more aggressively.
If the deposits are wet, or gummy, you need to investigate whether your EGR cooler is leaking, and needs replacement.
If the deposits are dry, you can help reduce buildup on the valve by occasionally driving more aggressively.
If the deposits are wet, or gummy, you need to investigate whether your EGR cooler is leaking, and needs replacement.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,644
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From: SW Ohio
IPR EGR GEN2 Delete Kit with Up Pipe & Gaskets for all 2005-2007 Ford Powerstroke 6.0 will fit F250, F350, F450
Delete the EGR and leave the valve in.
Delete the EGR and leave the valve in.
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 307
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From: Gainesville, FL
I remove my EGR and clean it every year (I only drive about 5000 miles per year). I don't use a solvent just wipe it off and replace the rings, if needed. It's very easy to do and only takes a few minutes.
The reason I don't use solvent is that you don't want to get any on the inside of the valve.
And yes, if you have moisture on the EGR then you probably something else that needs to be addressed.
The reason I don't use solvent is that you don't want to get any on the inside of the valve.
And yes, if you have moisture on the EGR then you probably something else that needs to be addressed.
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It was codes P0404, P0401, P1335. When I pulled the valve it was dirty but dry. I ended up just replacing it because of time. Will see how it holds up tomorrow.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
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The P0404, and P1335 codes would necessitate valve replacement, IMO. Those are valve performance codes. If there wasn't serious build up on the valve to inhibit it's ability to actuate, then there's nothing you can really do to repair it. Hopefully the new one gives you lots of trouble free miles of service.
Where did you source the new valve? If it's a MC, what was the part number?
Where did you source the new valve? If it's a MC, what was the part number?
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Senior User
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One of those times you take what you can get:
Dorman OE Solutions 904-219 - EGR Valve | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Dorman OE Solutions 904-219 - EGR Valve | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,139
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It's easy enough to change out, the motor will still run if it fails, and it has a lifetime warranty.
I wouldn't poo poo it under those circumstances. It took years for Ford themselves to refine the design after they hit the streets. Hopefully the aftermarket world has paid attention too. Keep it blown out with the turbo, and hopefully it lasts for years to come.
I wouldn't poo poo it under those circumstances. It took years for Ford themselves to refine the design after they hit the streets. Hopefully the aftermarket world has paid attention too. Keep it blown out with the turbo, and hopefully it lasts for years to come.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,283
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From: missouri
Reroute the crank case vent from pre turbo to a filter or to the atmosphere. Plug the air tube and it stops the sucking of the oily fumes into your intake, intercooler and hot/cold tubes helps the turbo as well.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
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With all due respect, I'll say CCV reroute won't have a dramatic impact on EGR valve condition. Most of the oil settles in the CAC. Anything that makes it to the manifold likely won't accumulate on the critical surfaces of the EGR valve, as exhaust pressure should always be greater than manifold pressure when the valve is commanded to open. Thats why a dry, sooty valve is all you should find on a good running 6.0l motor. Positive exhaust gas flow is only achieved through differential pressure.
On the early motors a throttle plate was utilized to help achieve lower pressure in the manifold/aid EGR function. EBP was also used to verify exhaust gas pressure was higher than MAP. Programming changes have allowed operation without the use of the throttle plate, or EBP sensor. Positive pressure is calculated to be achieved under valve open conditions. MAF and MAP are the critical sensors for proper operation now.
On the early motors a throttle plate was utilized to help achieve lower pressure in the manifold/aid EGR function. EBP was also used to verify exhaust gas pressure was higher than MAP. Programming changes have allowed operation without the use of the throttle plate, or EBP sensor. Positive pressure is calculated to be achieved under valve open conditions. MAF and MAP are the critical sensors for proper operation now.
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