T5 making noise (sometimes)
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
Just a wild guess here......the adapter plate is designed to use a car 3 speed retainer over the T5 one. You used the truck 4 speed piece, correct? There may be a difference in thickness of them, not allowing your TO bearing to go back far enough.
Again, just a guess without having the 2 parts side by side.
Again, just a guess without having the 2 parts side by side.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 495
Likes: 2
From: Montana
Just a wild guess here......the adapter plate is designed to use a car 3 speed retainer over the T5 one. You used the truck 4 speed piece, correct? There may be a difference in thickness of them, not allowing your TO bearing to go back far enough.
Again, just a guess without having the 2 parts side by side.
Again, just a guess without having the 2 parts side by side.
I considered that as well Scott. Do you remember the raised lip shown here?
Even if I can fix the T/O touching the PP issue, that still doesn't explain why it's so bad at high RPMs with the clutch in. When the clutch is in the T/O is touching the PP anyway. The more I consider this the more I think that the T/O is the culprit since it does it both with the clutch in and out (considering the fact that my T/O always touches anyway) but it does it way more often and consistent with the clutch in. Or maybe the engine mounts are allowing way too much vibration? I think that's what you were saying Ernie?? I'll have to tear into it when I have a minute (or 180).....
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
Yes, my adapter has the same raised lip.
I had a similar problem with mine at first.....ate up a TO bearing pretty quick. I found a bunch of slack in my clutch linkage that was keeping the bearing from being pulled back all the way. Fixing that allowed me to adjust the linkage correctly.
I had a similar problem with mine at first.....ate up a TO bearing pretty quick. I found a bunch of slack in my clutch linkage that was keeping the bearing from being pulled back all the way. Fixing that allowed me to adjust the linkage correctly.
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
The pins were worn, but most was at the "butterfly" where the cross shaft attaches to the hogs head. Still needs new bushings in the hogs head next time it comes apart.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Montana
Got it,thanks Scott.
I was just out tinkering with the pedal free play and adjusted it a little out of specs, but to the point to where the bearing isn't touching the PP. I'm super glad that I could adjust it and get it to the point to where it isn't touching. I'll go take it for a spin now and see what happens......
I was just out tinkering with the pedal free play and adjusted it a little out of specs, but to the point to where the bearing isn't touching the PP. I'm super glad that I could adjust it and get it to the point to where it isn't touching. I'll go take it for a spin now and see what happens......
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
And we're sure the clutch fingers are making contact with the TO bearing on the working surface, not on the outer edge? And we all know the clearance between the fingers and the TO bearing will decrease with higher RPM?
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
I forgot about the counter weights making the fingers move out a bit.....have also had to adjust linkage after the disc wears down a bit.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Montana
Thanks for the inputs ray. I guess I didn't know that it could touch at all, but then again 3 months ago I never even had a throwout bearing in my hands. I do however know enough to look into the inspection cover and see it spinning no matter if the clutch is in or out. I assume that it should not spin at all until you start to engage the clutch. I now have it adjusted to where it will not spin or touch the PP fingers until I press on the clutch pedal. Is this correct?
By the way it also drives well and I cannot get it to make the noise until the clutch is in. That tells me that the T/O is the culprit since it's currently not spinning until I engage the clutch. Thoughts?
By the way it also drives well and I cannot get it to make the noise until the clutch is in. That tells me that the T/O is the culprit since it's currently not spinning until I engage the clutch. Thoughts?
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Senior User
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From: Montana
Since it sounds like I will be replacing the T/O bearing in the near future I want to be sure I get the right one. To do that I need to make sure I have the right size. The one I have on there from Rockauto is National #2065 and the spec are:
OD= 3.5433
Bore= 2.063
Width= .75
Can anyone confirm this is the correct size for a stock 4-speed? I will not be going with National since the first one didn't workout too well. Yes it was touching the Pressure Plate and spinning all the time, but I think it should have lasted longer than 50 miles considering. I'd like to go with Timken (suggested above) or another reputable brand. Any suggestions and part numbers are welcome. Thanks for your help. Been doing Google magic for over an hour and can't get a definite on the size or Timken part number.
OD= 3.5433
Bore= 2.063
Width= .75
Can anyone confirm this is the correct size for a stock 4-speed? I will not be going with National since the first one didn't workout too well. Yes it was touching the Pressure Plate and spinning all the time, but I think it should have lasted longer than 50 miles considering. I'd like to go with Timken (suggested above) or another reputable brand. Any suggestions and part numbers are welcome. Thanks for your help. Been doing Google magic for over an hour and can't get a definite on the size or Timken part number.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
I can not offer any input on which TO bearing to get. Just make certain the contact surface of the TO bearing fits the working surface of the clutch fingers so as the angle of the fingers changes the contact remains on the working surface of the bearing. The picture you show of the two TO bearings side by side, shows what appears to be different OD TO bearings.
Another thing I've not seen addressed here is the main drive position. Is it being held firmly in the correct position with the new spacer?
Another thing I've not seen addressed here is the main drive position. Is it being held firmly in the correct position with the new spacer?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
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From: Rockingham, VA
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 495
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From: Montana
I can not offer any input on which TO bearing to get. Just make certain the contact surface of the TO bearing fits the working surface of the clutch fingers so as the angle of the fingers changes the contact remains on the working surface of the bearing. The picture you show of the two TO bearings side by side, shows what appears to be different OD TO bearings.
Another thing I've not seen addressed here is the main drive position. Is it being held firmly in the correct position with the new spacer?
Another thing I've not seen addressed here is the main drive position. Is it being held firmly in the correct position with the new spacer?
Thanks Ray, I'll have a look in there and see what I can see. I know the picture looks like it's a different size, but I went through my T5 install thread and found this and I had mentioned that the old one I took off and the new one I put on measured out to be the same or very close to it.
Don't go by the number for the OD as I don't have it sitting on the widest point in the picture.
Also, can you explain more about the main drive position you mentioned? Thanks for you inputs!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 495
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From: Montana
Thanks Joe! I didn't turn up any specs on COTZ 7580-A after a search or 2, but if I did measure it against the one I took off and the one I took off was working with the 11" PP, then technically it should work with the T5 since I'm still using the 11" PP. At least I hope..... I'll keep at it and see what happens.