I was unable to find the original Threads about my 6.0. The wrench would come on all the time due to over 15 degree seperation.
As per an individual that had the same setup as I do, I relocated the EOT back to it's original location. I have driven the truck with a load and with out for 500 miles with no problem.
Thanks for all the help that ever one gave me.

 

Hi 1949ply,

Here's your other thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-other-qs.html

It's in the 6.0L forum. Glad you got it sorted out!

 

After 660 miles the P012F was back with mr. I bought a Edge insight CTS to monitor the EOT and ECT. My temps are farture apart than 15 degrees, my ECT stays around 198 degrees and my EOT runs as high as 258 degrees.
The oil cooler is mounted external to the block so the EOT should run cooler. I guess I;m stuck with the P012F, not sure what to do next ?.

 

I'm going to move this down to the 6.0L forum. Sounds like you need an oil cooler.

 

I had Ford motor company install 2 new coolers prior to myself installing an external oil cooler by Sinister. Where the old oil cooler was is a open plate to circulate oil and coolant
as having cooler in place, then its directed via tubing to an external oil cooler that is mounted by battery on right side. I install a coolant filter to keep coolant free of any contaminant.
Not sure what or where to go from here ?.

 

Is the Oil cooler under warrantee ? with the newest flash this DTC will pop up , due to rust and contaminates in the cooling system , when you did the New Cooler did you use a V-c9 and flush really well and add ford gold . didn't fill with straight water? Lets look at some things
1. do you hear the Fan come on? 2. is the EGR Valve Plugged in? 3. What does the EOT and ECT temps say at 12 hour cold soak? 4. How Long ago did the dealer replace the second Cooler and when did you Install the External Cooler ?5. Did you Replace the Thermostat when you Flushed and How old is it?

 

The second oil cooler was installed about 6 months ago by a Ford dealer. I installed the external oil cooler 5 1/2 months ago, I flushed the system twice with the VC9 coolant flush. The thermo-stat was replaced and the external coolant filtration.
I can hear the fan come on and when driving can see the temp drop a couple of degrees. The temp varies when has set for the 12 hour period it depends on the outside temp. The coolant is usually a few degrees warmer than the oil temp. The oil cooler is still under warantee but I understand that I can flush the cooler out my self.
I removed the coolant filter and the filter was clean with no types of contamination.

 

When you do the test [cold soak] to check the sensors you are to only turn the key on not start it. If you did for any amount of time you will see a false positive.

The check is against each sensors reading and ambient air temp. They should be within acouple of degrees of each other.

 

If you did the VC-9 flush after the oil cooler replacement the flush probably plugged it up. Flushes should be done prior to cooler replacement. With a new cooler you should only do drain and refill.

 

Another thought....it could be a failed oil by-pass valve in the oil filter base. That would require a new base, as the valve is not available by itself.

I would get ahold of an infared thermometer and check the temps of the lines going in and out of your external oil cooler.

 

The oil filter housing assembly bolts on top of the original plate. So your saying that the main housing needs to be replaced ?

 

Money-pit is on the money. Do you use a stock Ford Racor Oil Filter and Cap? If a taller cap (not Ford) and Ford filter is used, the filter could be in bypass. Also, the cooler curcuit will be falsely elevated in bypass mode?. I agree with testing outlet of oil to where oil temp sender is with an IR gun. Its possible your filter holder has a melted standpipe at those temps which could be higher inside the filter where the hot oil is coming from. You need to open it up and check for melting standpipe ussues too just in case. There are a couple other threads with this pervasive hot oil temps which could be linked to your problem. Search is your friend. This will give you some things to check.

 

Well, I didn't say it needed replaced....yet.

I'm going by the fact you stated you had the 2nd Ford oil cooler installed 6 months ago, then you installed the external cooler 5 1/2 months ago....I assume that means the Ford oil cooler was in there 2 weeks. Then you installed the external oil cooler. If this is the 3rd oil cooler and little or no improvement has been seen after the coolers were installed, I would suspect something else is the issue. The by-pass valve in the oil filter housing has been known to cause such symptoms. (oil is bypassing the oil cooler)

I suggested checking the temps of the lines going in/out of the external cooler to see if the cooler is working. Based on your description and past experience, I would start there.

 

Some what confused and maybe a couple questions will sort it out.

You have had two OEM oil coolers and now run an external oil cooler. No coolant passes through it, but cooled by a fan (or not) and it's mounted on the fender near the battery.

The cold soak determines that the sensors are working and should be nearly the same after 12 hours. If not, one must be broke.

The bypass valve Money Pit spoke of allows the oil to pass the cooler or directs it to the cooler... you need to check it and probably what the issue is..... unless your external oil cooler has a fan on it that may not be working?

Nothing to do with coolant flow, it's oil passing thru the oil cooler and yours sounds like it isn't. 258 is way to hot.

 

Sure makes a lot of sense Guys the only other thing I can wrap my head around would be Water pump prop not working, other than that the money spent for a external oil cooler set up didn't justified the cost vs the Internal OEM . 1949ply is the EGR cooler still in? if so your Jeopardizing popping it with those temps along with the Heads