Anyone know which restoration place carries these? I replaced mine and they were all loose and one of the bolts is missing and I want to replace it.


Like wise I am also looking for reproduction radiator to core support bolts, I went to take one off to allow the radiator to lift up with the motor and one of the bolts twisted off.


I am looking in my parts and illustration guide but the illustration guide number of 20390-S has no correlation with the parts guide. It skips over 20390 completely.

 

Is this what you are looking for?
1948-64 Ford F-100 Motor Mount Rear Side Bolt

http://midfifty.com/item.php?INV_ID=10522

For a lot of my bolts, I've gone to the hardware store. Grade 5 is $2.99 a pound. Grade 8 is $3.99 a pound. If you need to go fine thread it's more expensive.

 

Rusty, is this for the Y block in the 56 Fairlane? If so I don't think there are repo's. Any hardware store grade 5 bolt will work. I think the radiator bolts are similar to fender bolts, lots of replacement fender bolts on Ebay....

 

Simmilar except mine is about 1" long and its all threads up to the head of the bolt. I did find that Tee-Bird Inc has bolt kits for the engine mounts as well as the radiator for $2.00 a kit. They told me for the engine mount kit it comes with eight lock washers, four nuts and four bolts. The radiator mount kit comes with four washer head bolts that are like the orignals except they are zinc plated and not oxide black like the orignals. I might go ahead and get the east wood blackening kit and blacken the bolts later on when it comes time to restore the radiator support and everything under the hood.


It is for the Fairlane, I did find one place that sells the stuff it was Tee-Bird Inc. I try not to do business with them because they do not do online orders you either place the order via email like I do or you call them during their business hours and order via phone. But I do have to say they have a lot of things no one else has. I recently ordered a solid state vibrator for my radio. I hope that makes the radio works cause two of the six tubes I know are lighting up but four of them I cant tell due to the glass being blackened from heat and age. But I am waiting for a reply to my question on the tube set they have for the radio and if it will work on mine. No one else sells radio stuff but Tee-Bird does. Its just like Larry's Thunderbirds and Mustangs is the only place I found that sells a 100 points exact reproduction of the original master cylinder cap that has the FoMoCo logo on the hex head nut as well as the correct "Use S.A.E. Brake Fluid Only" around the cap vs the replacement that says "Use DOT 3 Brake Fluid Only"

 

I'm confused LOL. Doesn't the Fairlane use side mounts, and TBirds are different..

 

The fairlane does use side mounts, the bolts that goes through the mount into the side of the block are 1" in length and the mount to the frame uses lock washers and nuts as the studs are made into the engine mount itself.


If I remember right the Tbird uses a different steady rest mount up front than the fairlane I cant say about the side mounts though. I know I was glad I replaced mine as it looks like the motor is setting up a little better, still a vibration at idle but not as bad still need to replace the steady rest mounts and the transmission mount to see if that removes the rest of the vibration I have at idle. If it doesn't I might have to idle the engine up a little more maybe it wont idle at 500 rpm in gear with how many miles is on it.


But these mounts were replaced once before that's how the bottom of my radiator was smashed up cause they didn't remove the radiator when they lifted the motor to replace the mounts. Way I did it was remove the four bolts from the radiator and left the hoses attached and I lifted the motor and radiator at the same time. I also had to use a screw jack from my '82 truck on the passenger side ear of the transmission to rock the engine to the driver side to get the passenger side mount in but was easy to do though. Wished I went ahead and did the steady rest mount at the same time as now I have to remove the mounts from the frame and lift it all up again to replace the steady rest rubber mounts. But I don't think the steady rest would be causing a vibration at idle. Then again maybe I am too spoiled with newer engines and these might have a vibration at idle in gear and theres no way around it.

 

My 57 Ford uses the same side mounts but not a steady rest like a Bird. The replacement mounts I used ( I think they were Anchor ) suck, real pieces of Chinese/India? crap. And the studs where too long to allow the engine to drop into the cross member pads, I had to cut about a 1/4" off each stud. After installing the engine I ran it for a week with the hood off and every time I hit the slightest bump in the road you could see the engine jump around..

Trying to find vibrations can drive a guy crazy, good luck. Shouldn't your idle be a little higher then that with an Auto trans?

 

I noticed that, the mounts I got the studs were like 1/8 to 1/4 inch longer than the mounts I took off. Didn't make it that much harder to install I just jacked the motor up another couple pumps of the jack slid the mount in at an angle to get the studs through the frame then lowered the engine some started he bolts in the block to line the mount up then lowered it all the way.


My problem is I am starting to second guess myself on if the engine has this vibration or if it should have a smooth idle. I know if I place my hand on the steering wheel at full idle in gear you can see my thumb vibrating but its not that bad. My truck does the same thing if I have the A/C on and its idling just below 500 rpm.


I will double check it but I believe it said the idle speed in gear is 500 to 600 rpm. I know in park I have it set at 750 rpm or so and it drops down to 500 - 600 rpm in gear. I know I had to idle the engine up a little more after I installed the oil bath air cleaner as it dropped the engine rpm down more than I thought it would.

 

20390-S is a standard aka hardware part number. Standard parts are not listed by themselves, and 20390 (or any other standard number) is not a basic part number.

Standard parts are listed in the text section with the parts they were used with. 20390-S = Scroll thru the 6038 engine supports and you will see that it's: 20390-S8

Standard parts shown in pics may not have a complete suffix, so you need the text section to verify.

And btw: Pay no attention to the B102 number in parenthesis.

This is the 20390-S8 bin location number for dealers that used standard parts bins...that when the drawers were pulled out, could have a gazillion cubby holes.

 

Thanks for that, I did not know they lumped those kind of parts with the part they were used with. I was looking in the section with numbers 20390 would be at and it was not even related to hardware it was body related.

 

Rusty, tubes don't necessarily light up, even if they do in any case means nothing. Generally though, replacing tubes without clear reason is a waste of money. The real culprit in vintage electronics is the power supply and coupling and bypass capacitors. These are always bad by now and should be replaced before trying a set. Here's a good site to get you started, not geared towards car radios but principles are exactly the same:

http://antiqueradio.org/begin.htm

 

If that is the case I will just pull the radio and have it overhauled by a local radio shop. I know two of the tubes do light up there is a small nipple that faintly glows and gets brighter as the radio is on longer. But the problem is the vibrator is not buzzing and that is the first thing to check for a non working radio via the trouble shooting chart in my shop manual. Now if it was buzzing then it says to remove the radio as it needs major work done to it.