no start, no clicking
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: southern maryland
If the battery was just on a charger then it sounds like a surface charge. in order to properly test a battery you need voltage and amperage out put under a load with the battery at the maximum charge it can take. get a volt meter and a test light and check to see if the fender mounted relay is getting and transferring battery power to the starter. I take it by solenoid you mean the one on the starter. when it comes to the starting system id forget about the ohm test because it fails most every time depending on what your doing.
only do this test if everything else functions normally all lights work no obvious signs of a bad connection and know you have a properly working battery and good clean connections at the battery. If the engine cranks at all the starter is least likely to be the cause.
only do this test if everything else functions normally all lights work no obvious signs of a bad connection and know you have a properly working battery and good clean connections at the battery. If the engine cranks at all the starter is least likely to be the cause.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,709
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From: 8600 ft in Colo
I'd check to see if the starter relay on the fender is getting a signal from the ignition switch when the key is turned to start. Pull the small wire off the small terminal on the relay and check for 12v there when the key is turned to start. If not, check the NSS/Clutch interlink.
If there is voltage there, then (in park or neutral) use a jumper and connect 12v to the small terminal on the relay. If it doesn't engage, it's bad.
If there is voltage there, then (in park or neutral) use a jumper and connect 12v to the small terminal on the relay. If it doesn't engage, it's bad.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
neutral safety switch
What's the NSS interlink look like on my truck, mine doesn't look like its got a electronic connector? Is it on the drivers side, on the side of the trans. with two retaining bolts? Do I need to check the Manual Lever Position Sensor to?
E4OD, Automatic trans. 1993 F-150 5.0 4x4
E4OD, Automatic trans. 1993 F-150 5.0 4x4
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
What's the NSS interlink look like on my truck, mine doesn't look like its got a electronic connector? Is it on the drivers side, on the side of the trans. with two retaining bolts? Do I need to check the Manual Lever Position Sensor to?
E4OD, Automatic trans. 1993 F-150 5.0 4x4
E4OD, Automatic trans. 1993 F-150 5.0 4x4
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,259
Likes: 438
From: IL
Easy way to see if battery is taking a dump is to hook the meter to it, turn the key to start position and if the battery drops below 9V, it's most likely shorted. How are the cable ends, could there be corrosion under the plastic?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
I'd check to see if the starter relay on the fender is getting a signal from the ignition switch when the key is turned to start. Pull the small wire off the small terminal on the relay and check for 12v there when the key is turned to start. If not, check the NSS/Clutch interlink.
If there is voltage there, then (in park or neutral) use a jumper and connect 12v to the small terminal on the relay. If it doesn't engage, it's bad.
If there is voltage there, then (in park or neutral) use a jumper and connect 12v to the small terminal on the relay. If it doesn't engage, it's bad.
I found the Manual Lever Position Sensor looks like the connector is towards the the top of the trans. a little hard to see get to.
Can I used a jumper from the battery + to the small (s) terminal on the fender starter relay. Should this turn the engine over if the relay, starter and the battery are good?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
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From: Easton,Ks
I found the Manual Lever Position Sensor looks like the connector is towards the the top of the trans. a little hard to see get to.
Can I used a jumper from the battery + to the small (s) terminal on the fender starter relay. Should this turn the engine over if the relay, starter and the battery are good?
Can I used a jumper from the battery + to the small (s) terminal on the fender starter relay. Should this turn the engine over if the relay, starter and the battery are good?
Manual Lever Position Sensor:
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
I used a jumper from the battery + to the small (s) terminal on the fender starter relay. The engine turned over. I got no signal from the ignition switch. Do I still need to check the MLPS for power?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Check for power with a loading test light at the start wire (red wire with a light blue stripe) at the Ignition switch first while holding the key in the start position. If you have no power there in the start position of the key tumbler then try moving the stalk between "P" & "N" and and see if you get it to crank while holding the key in the start position.
If you have power while holding the key in the start position at the ignition switch start wire and no crank then check for power at the MLPS for power both into it and out of the circuit #32 wire while moving the stalk between "P" & "N".
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If you have power while holding the key in the start position at the ignition switch start wire and no crank then check for power at the MLPS for power both into it and out of the circuit #32 wire while moving the stalk between "P" & "N".
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
no power to ignition switch ?
Check for power with a loading test light at the start wire (red wire with a light blue stripe) at the Ignition switch first while holding the key in the start position. If you have no power there in the start position of the key tumbler then try moving the stalk between "P" & "N" and and see if you get it to crank while holding the key in the start position.
If you have power while holding the key in the start position at the ignition switch start wire and no crank then check for power at the MLPS for power both into it and out of the circuit #32 wire while moving the stalk between "P" & "N".
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If you have power while holding the key in the start position at the ignition switch start wire and no crank then check for power at the MLPS for power both into it and out of the circuit #32 wire while moving the stalk between "P" & "N".
/
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Yes that is the right 1993 diagram.
All Fords from way back when (before 1977) to at least 1997 used the Red wire with a light blue stripe on it for the start circuit.
Black or a black with a white stripe was used for ground wire on Fords.
You should not have a black wire at the ignition switch plug.
The ACC power circuit has a black wire with a green stripe at the ignition switch plug and the Diesels also had a bulb prove out circuit with a black wire with a light blue stripe at that point also.
All Fords from way back when (before 1977) to at least 1997 used the Red wire with a light blue stripe on it for the start circuit.
Black or a black with a white stripe was used for ground wire on Fords.
You should not have a black wire at the ignition switch plug.
The ACC power circuit has a black wire with a green stripe at the ignition switch plug and the Diesels also had a bulb prove out circuit with a black wire with a light blue stripe at that point also.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
Yes that is the right 1993 diagram.
All ford from way back when (before 1977) to at least 1997 used the Red wire with a light blue stripe on it for the start circuit.
Black or a black with a white stripe was used for ground wire on Fords.
You should not have a black wire at the ignition switch plug.
The ACC power circuit has a black wire with a green stripe at the ignition switch plug and the Diesels also had a bulb prove out circuit with a black wire with a light blue stripe at that point also.
All ford from way back when (before 1977) to at least 1997 used the Red wire with a light blue stripe on it for the start circuit.
Black or a black with a white stripe was used for ground wire on Fords.
You should not have a black wire at the ignition switch plug.
The ACC power circuit has a black wire with a green stripe at the ignition switch plug and the Diesels also had a bulb prove out circuit with a black wire with a light blue stripe at that point also.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
Check for power with a loading test light at the start wire (red wire with a light blue stripe) at the Ignition switch first while holding the key in the start position. If you have no power there in the start position of the key tumbler then try moving the stalk between "P" & "N" and and see if you get it to crank while holding the key in the start position.
If you have power while holding the key in the start position at the ignition switch start wire and no crank then check for power at the MLPS for power both into it and out of the circuit #32 wire while moving the stalk between "P" & "N".
/
If you have power while holding the key in the start position at the ignition switch start wire and no crank then check for power at the MLPS for power both into it and out of the circuit #32 wire while moving the stalk between "P" & "N".
/