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Door Jamb Dome Light Switch - Help Needed

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Old May 4, 2015 | 05:52 PM
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Door Jamb Dome Light Switch - Help Needed




You can see my dilemma. The new switch are the same length overall, but the nut is further back than on the original switch. Any ideas or do i just have the wrong part number? '74 F-250.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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When you close the door on new switch, shaft just moves in, kinda self adjusting for proper depth.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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Looks like the wrong part and or part # to me. Dome light 101:

For the dome light wire, hot-at-all-times power comes goes to the headlight switch as a GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire. Dome light power comes back out as a BLACK with BLUE stripe wire. The same color scheme is used at the door jamb switches. BLACK with BLUE stripe runs out to the actual dome light. BLUE with a RED stripe is instrument panel illumination. It comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse box, leaves the fuse box again as the same color and is distributed throughout the dash.

There is no ground connection to the dome light switches or the headlight switches. These switches switch power, not ground.
1) Make sure you have 12 volts on both sides of the courtesy lamp fuse. This circuit is hot at all times, so it doesn't make a difference what position the key is in. If you have power on only one side, replace the fuse. If you don't have power on either side, then there is other work to do first.

2) Pull the dome light switches out and remove them. Make sure the terminal for the GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire in the connector has power.

3) Check the dome light switches for continuity. With the plunger all the way out (switch CLOSED), the switch should be shorted. With the plunger pushed all the way in (switch OPEN), the switch should be open. If not, replace the switch.

4) With power to the switch proven to be good, and the switches proven to be good, the dome light should light up. If the dome light does not light up, remove the cover and check for power at the dome light (not the side that's permanently grounded to sheetmetal) with the door OPEN. If you have power here, yet the bulb does not light up, replace the bulb.

This will prove out the door-side; if you get to the point that the doors turn the light on but the headlight switch will not, then we can cross that bridge
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Hickory is correct on the installation procedure....I asked the same question a while back.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by grinnergetter
Hickory is correct on the installation procedure....I asked the same question a while back.
Yea, I figured it out in one of those DOH moments.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 06:19 PM
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Well I'll be damned, they are self-adjusting. Thanks fellas.
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 08:55 PM
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s u b d
 
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Old May 4, 2015 | 09:51 PM
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Well I'll be....I like learning something new.
 
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