2015 incentives (rebates)
Last edited by hikeril; Apr 27, 2015 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Current model year is build 5/2010
Dealers don't even know what the new rebates are going to be in advance, they find out at the same time it happens.
Ford also likes to play games when it comes to rebates, which can hurt some buyers and bite them in the butt as being penalized for things outside of their control. Example would be, Ford offers $4500 retail purchase rebate, a $1500 rebate if you finance through Ford Motor Credit that would be good until the first of the next month.
So now the next month rolls around and you waited for a better rebate or incentive to purchase your new truck. Only now the rebates are $3500 retail purchase, $1250 FMC finance incentive, and now a $1250 trade assistance incentive. The total of the rebates add up to the same as last months rebates........Unless you are not trading in a vehicle. That being the case you just lost out of $1250 savings by waiting.
The are also pretty good at slipping in an extra rebate for a certain model that does not apply straight across the board. Such as it may only apply to a Superduty that is an XLT with a certain option package installed.
So at this point the only advise I could offer you is the old saying of a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. Since the 2016 is not going to be any real differences between the 2015 I would say shop now and if you find a great deal go ahead and buy. Keeping in my that Murphy's Law dictates that once you do buy the deals will get better.
Also a thing about rebates is that they do very by region of the country. However it doesn't matter where you buy it is the current rebates offered where you are registering the vehicle at your home address that will be offered.

Heck, my 2015 is only 6 months old and it has about half what your current truck has. I also traded up from a 2012.
If you can find a truck on the lot to your liking, then going with a 2015 now would give the best incentives. For a 2016 you might have to wait till the fall to get the incentives back up to where they are on the 15s.
Best of luck in your decision.
pat
With the 16's coming the rebates on them will probably be around 1k starting out. Something to think about is when the new 17's start rolling out you could get a heck of a deal on a 16 if there is any left in stock. Dealers will load up on 16's since the plants will have some down time retooling for the new 17's. That being said they may not put a lot of rebates on 16's in fear of running out of inventory before they get any decent inventory levels on 17's.
Another thing to consider is the 17's will take a huge price increase going to Aluminum and the advanced electronics, just like the new F150's.
Your best price may be a dealer inventory 15 truck ordered prior to the March price increase
Final Comment
What do you do to ensure you are getting a fair price
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carsdirect, truecar, and edmonds are good free to access places to look for invoice prices. Will they match, sometimes, not always. Will it give you a good ballpark - yes.
Obviously after you negotiate the price, then you subtract all the rebates. I bought my 2015 last summer and I got $10k off sticker including all the rebates and after all the 'fees' where added back in. (Tag, $15 in sales tax, and $200 Dealer DOC fee) I would be able to do better today though as the rebates on the '15s then were not great. If you are a member of Costco they can give you pricing as well. If you are member of AQHA, NAPO, or Military there is usually $500 more available. Anyone can join AQHA but you gotta wait 30 days to get the rebate.
Of course there are people that somehow negotiate $2k lower than invoice (there is a large hold back on these trucks so invoice price is misleading) - but good luck getting into that money on a vehicle that is selling or if you are in an area where trucks are hard to get. (Like where I am now in Alaska)
Ohh - Check with online sites for the cost of the extended warranty and maintenance plans if you want to do those. Flood Ford comes to mind as one - they are usually 50% of what the dealer will want to charge you for it. Your dealer may match them if you ask. Unless you are in a insurance regulated state like Florida you will do better online.
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