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Posting these Pictures for reference, and anyone researching and wondering what the hell difference between a stock and RiffRaff high flow fitting is....
install is in theory easy, the back one on the passenger side head is a bugger!!!! the driver side one is on the front and really easy to get to if your also doing the high flow banjo bolts from RiffRaff at the same time...
what was thought to be a leaky fuel bowl turned out to be a cracked passenger side fuel line (dreaded passenger side clamp).
while all of this is out i sent the HPOP out to be freshened up along with stopping that oil leak... which in turn allowed me time to order fuel system goodies as a "well... while i got the fuel system torn apart i might as well"
updated first post with picture showing the banjo bolt and fuel line check valve delete installed, on the drivers side head behind the bracket for the alternator and power steering pump.
Making over 500 RWHP is possible on the stock ones. Any improvement in acceleration or power can be traced back to the better power-to-weight ratio because of the fewer number of Benjamins in his wallet weighing him down.
Making over 500 RWHP is possible on the stock ones. Any improvement in acceleration or power can be traced back to the better power-to-weight ratio because of the fewer number of Benjamins in his wallet weighing him down.
LOL, you can make 500hp on a stock turbo too, if you feel that you hate things like reliability and common sense.
Since this will change the back pressure in the fuel lines downstream of the fuel bowl, might this result in a pressure imbalance and end up needing to use a different spring in the FPR?
so if the replacement part, the high flow "check valve", appears not to have a check valve inside what is the value of it??
reason for asking is I am looking at replacing the fuel hard lines with 3/8 stainless steel braided lines and AN fittings. The plan is to screw the AN fitting directly into the head eliminating the check valve.
any issue with that.??
How about the banjo bolt replacement.. needed or not??
i just swapped my hard lines and check valves with brass 1/8" npt-#4 AN and stainless lines. Pretty straight forward job, removed the factory fittings out of the fuel bowl, removed the check valve fittings from the heads, installed new pipe/AN fittings in head/fuel bowl and attached braided lines. Drove it to work ~ 35 miles one way and back home. SOTP feel, nothing really lol, but i'm 1/2 way closer to going full regulated. All i need is 2 more lines and the regulator.
After dirt track racing for 13 years i've accumulated a few of these, i've got more but they are straight on both ends, and not sure if it will work cleanly.
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