Headers ?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
I was looking at the Thorleys to replace my cracked Headmans. BUT Headman sent me new headers.. But I have yet to install them yet. Just haven't had time. I'm not 100% sure if I want to really put them on.. I'm looking forward to seeing how Thorleys turn out.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
Lmao. I know your pain. I'm working on putting new Manifolds on a 08 5.4L at work. Book calls for 6.8 hrs for one side, and 2.8 hrs for the other side!
Hope u don't have too many bolts break off. I know I've done 98% of the work from the fenderwells.
Hope u don't have too many bolts break off. I know I've done 98% of the work from the fenderwells.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: West Bend WI
Day 1
Starting to think I should have kept my Chevy.
I started on the RH side, only had one visible stud broke and I figured this would be the easy side and a good place to start.
Three studs came out whole, three broke at the nut and four broke in the head.
Welded nuts on the three studs and they came right out. Good, this is going great.
Drilled and removed the first three in the heads, everything still going great.
The fourth on is the one that has been broke for awhile. This one had rust and corrosion in the hole and I knew it was going to be a little tougher.
Drilled the hole, put the extractor in and try to remove stud, extractor brakes.
The hole is deep enough I was finally able to pound the piece in deeper and try again. still wont budge.
I now have had enough fun for one day and will go at it again tomorrow. I have it soaking with Kroil, this thing should be laying on the ground in the morning.
Starting to think I should have kept my Chevy.
I started on the RH side, only had one visible stud broke and I figured this would be the easy side and a good place to start.
Three studs came out whole, three broke at the nut and four broke in the head.
Welded nuts on the three studs and they came right out. Good, this is going great.
Drilled and removed the first three in the heads, everything still going great.
The fourth on is the one that has been broke for awhile. This one had rust and corrosion in the hole and I knew it was going to be a little tougher.
Drilled the hole, put the extractor in and try to remove stud, extractor brakes.
The hole is deep enough I was finally able to pound the piece in deeper and try again. still wont budge.
I now have had enough fun for one day and will go at it again tomorrow. I have it soaking with Kroil, this thing should be laying on the ground in the morning.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,064
Likes: 1,573
From: Media PA
Dealing with those broken studs can be a challenge, I got lucky with my header job as I only had 2 broken and they came out without much drama.
If you take those shock mounts off it will open up your working room some too.
Good luck!
If you take those shock mounts off it will open up your working room some too.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: West Bend WI
"If you take those shock mounts off it will open up your working room some too. "
I will on the drivers side if it gets in the way, pass side wasn't to bad.
"Weld a nut to it. Look at how deep this one was, and it came out. After I welded a few different nuts to it."
I'll give that a shot if the Kroil doesn't work.
"I will on the drivers side if it gets in the way, pass side wasn't to bad.
"Weld a nut to it. Look at how deep this one was, and it came out. After I welded a few different nuts to it."
I'll give that a shot if the Kroil doesn't work.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: West Bend WI
The headers are in, but not done. When I started the truck the original leak I had is still there. The EGR tube has a large hole in it. *%#@
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
yo nowsthetime iv got almost the exact same EX as your just XLT, im looking at the same kit on amazon THY-218Y-C, your saying this kit wont work. Im gunna check tomorrow and see if my EX has an egr im sure it doesnt seeing how it was originally sold in AK. Also did you call summit or just do everything on the web, Iv found that you can sometime gets better deals when calling online stores.
Thanks, and ill be following your progress, im pretty sure iv got some exhaust leaks, on initial look i didnt see any busted studds but everything else leads to exhaust leak.
Can you also post some full pics of underneath the EX when your done, just want to see how it lines up with the factory exhaust.
Thanks, and ill be following your progress, im pretty sure iv got some exhaust leaks, on initial look i didnt see any busted studds but everything else leads to exhaust leak.
Can you also post some full pics of underneath the EX when your done, just want to see how it lines up with the factory exhaust.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
From: West Bend WI
218Y-S-C is the part # for the headers with the smog tube (EGR).
I called Summit to get the part # and ordered from them, they had free shipping.
The install was not as easy as I had hoped. Some of the bolts are hard to reach and the hardware that come with the kit suck. I wish the bolts were longer. The gaskets are thick, I think they may have changed that at sometime and never compensated with longer bolts. And the muffler clamps for the y pipe are a joke, they will brake before you can get them tight enough to do anything. I ended up using band clamps.
Here's a pic of the pass side, you can see that the rear heater tubes hit the headers.
I was able to pull them out a little so I hope it works.
I'm headed out now to try and fix the EGR tube and will get a pic for you of the bottom.
I called Summit to get the part # and ordered from them, they had free shipping.
The install was not as easy as I had hoped. Some of the bolts are hard to reach and the hardware that come with the kit suck. I wish the bolts were longer. The gaskets are thick, I think they may have changed that at sometime and never compensated with longer bolts. And the muffler clamps for the y pipe are a joke, they will brake before you can get them tight enough to do anything. I ended up using band clamps.
Here's a pic of the pass side, you can see that the rear heater tubes hit the headers.
I was able to pull them out a little so I hope it works.
I'm headed out now to try and fix the EGR tube and will get a pic for you of the bottom.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,064
Likes: 1,573
From: Media PA
My Banks headers came close to those heater lines and at that area they had a built-in heat shield. But I wanted to play it safe and I had some ceramic insulation wrap in the garage so I made a little insulation pad using the wrap and some extremely heavy duty foil, been about 3 years now and everything is fine.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 4
From: Idaho
Oh boy... I'm getting ready to do this on my next weekend.
AHHHH!!!!! I can't wait to do it, but it does look like I have my work cut out for me. Thanks for posting the pictures and giving us some insight of what you've got going with yours.
I have to know, what's it sounds like?!
AHHHH!!!!! I can't wait to do it, but it does look like I have my work cut out for me. Thanks for posting the pictures and giving us some insight of what you've got going with yours.
I have to know, what's it sounds like?!