Constantly stranded! Heat soak issue
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
From: Boston, KY
Edelbrock will tell you ~4 psi is "ok" for their stuff but you have an EFI conversion and the system may not be 3/8" thru to the pickups in the tank.............the lack of a return will also tend to "vaporize" newer fuels (which have higher boiling points to begin with)
what is your fuel pump setup ?? (Optimum would be an upgraded electric)
what is your fuel pump setup ?? (Optimum would be an upgraded electric)
I'm running new 3/8 tubing from the front tank to the carb. Once I get the truck running, I'll tackle the rear tank and all the check valve/electronics/etc that goes with it.
Sounds like I need to take the bed off and spend some quality time with the undercarriage...
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
From: Boston, KY
yes you want a good pump shot from the accelerator pump. that tells me either the engine is flooding out or that its getting plenty of fuel but something else is wrong. when you check for spark check off the coil and at a plug wire. just remember if it is flooded you don't want sparks near the carb or any fuel.
when it will not start does it crank faster than normal.
when it will not start does it crank faster than normal.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
From: Boston, KY
well the big thing is find out what your missing if your loosing spark you need to prove it. from what i understand the truck is set up on a fuel pump in tank. so when the truck will not start take a fuel pressure and volume reading as close to the tank as you can get. i would not think a stock efi setup would be carb friendly. I have been reading as quick as i can but i assume you have a spark tester and a volt meter.
To my knowledge the only engine still carbureted in 1987 were the 351 and 460. This may sound ridiculous and dangerous but if it came down to it you could bottle feed the carburetor when it wont start.
To my knowledge the only engine still carbureted in 1987 were the 351 and 460. This may sound ridiculous and dangerous but if it came down to it you could bottle feed the carburetor when it wont start.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 433
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From: southern maryland
just make sure when you do any testing that the truck will no start when you do it. to bottle feed the carb take an old squeeze bottle something like stop leak would come in and full it with fuel then plump an appropriate size line to the feed of the carburetor and completely disconnect the rest of the fuel system just squeeze the bottle so that a small amount of fuel makes it into the float chamber then crank it up and see if it now starts. I know its not very professional but all i can say is it does work just don't blow the needle off its seat or seats i should say.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 79
From: Mooresville, NC
Ok --- that stock elec fuel pump (originally spec'd for a smaller engine) isn't cutting it......combine that with the lack of a return, uninsulated fuel lines and you'll get fuel delivery issues..........
the other prob is residual ECU related components which may or may be misguiding.......or have flat out heat related component issues.........
the other prob is residual ECU related components which may or may be misguiding.......or have flat out heat related component issues.........
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
Likes: 72
From: Roseville, MN
To verify that it's not fuel dump a little gas down its throat and then try to start it. If it's not getting fuel you'll get a brief fire out of it that way. If it's flooded obviously you'll make it worse and it won't start. And if it doesn't have spark obviously you won't get any fire. But squirting fuel out of the accelerator pump does the same thing, so you've already proved that lack of fuel isn't your problem.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
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From: Boston, KY
Thanks guys, this is all extremely helpful. It sounds like I may have wasted a few hundred bucks on the fuel system when it is possibly something else. I am going to try the things suggested tonight and post an update in the morning. I will say that when I start it cold, it will run fine, plenty of power at full throttle, and it will run indefinitely. It's only after I turn it off and let it sit that it doesn't start. Though I get fuel out of the accelerator pump, it vaporizes instantly as soon as it hits the carb.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: southern maryland
sure sounds like its flooding one last suggestion try checking to see if the plugs are wet if so dry them and clear out the cylinders. Best of luck to you looking forward to what you find.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 13
Check for fire. This can be the pickup in the distributor it can be the ICM. A can of freeze it can trouble shoot this issue. When it won't start spray the ICM with this stuff and try it still won't start pop distributor cap and spray pickup coil. You can spray the carb or any suspected sensor.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
From: Boston, KY
Check for fire. This can be the pickup in the distributor it can be the ICM. A can of freeze it can trouble shoot this issue. When it won't start spray the ICM with this stuff and try it still won't start pop distributor cap and spray pickup coil. You can spray the carb or any suspected sensor.
Awesome, this is the sort of electrical advice I was looking for. I'll take some pictures, but my ICM is ugly looking....it's got a wire harness coming out with most of the wires clipped. Since I went from modern EFI to low tech carb, I think the only two wires in use are the + and - going to the coil. Would I be better off at this point just running a straight hot wire from the ignition relay and one to a ground?
As a future project, I want to get rid of the rat's nest of wiring harnesses that are no longer in use.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
Just so you're not chasing your tail looking for leftover EFI parts, the 351 and 460 should both have been carbureted from the factory in 1987 model year. If the emissions label is still under hood, it should confirm. The truck may not have had a fuel return line originally and if it did not, it should operate correctly without one.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Awesome, this is the sort of electrical advice I was looking for. I'll take some pictures, but my ICM is ugly looking....it's got a wire harness coming out with most of the wires clipped. Since I went from modern EFI to low tech carb, I think the only two wires in use are the + and - going to the coil. Would I be better off at this point just running a straight hot wire from the ignition relay and one to a ground?
As a future project, I want to get rid of the rat's nest of wiring harnesses that are no longer in use.
As a future project, I want to get rid of the rat's nest of wiring harnesses that are no longer in use.
Your truck is not using the Thick Film Ignition (TFI) system, it's been converted back to a Duraspark version based on this photo from your build thread:
The silver box on the right is the Duraspark control module.
So any reference to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is incorrect.
